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Welding saddle joints...

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  • Welding saddle joints...

    I have built several racing kart frames using 1-1/8" .065 chromoly. I did fairly well in the design, bending, and fitting portion but am not very satisfied with my welds. I performed some test welds and they are structurely sound with good penetration. The problem I have is that the welds are not very pleasing to the eye. I'm using Argon/CO2 mix which keeps the beed fairly flat but it is not very consistant. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. I have no formal welding training so that is probably part of the problem. I initially learned when I was about 14 with an Oxy/Acet torch but this whole electric welding deal is pretty new to me.

    1) I have an old no-name cheap wire feed welder converted to use gas. What machine would you suggest to replace this? Preferably 110v and not too expensive (ie. < $600).

    2) What type/size of wire would you use? I'm currently using Lincoln L-56

    3) Are there any tricks/techniques for getting a good looking weld all the way around a saddle joint?

    Thanks for your help and suggestions!

  • #2
    I come from a drag racing background and NHRA does not allow chromoly tubing to be Mig's required to be Tig welded. That is not to say you can't Mig, but from everything I've been told, Tig would be a better choice for that material.

    I'm not a fan of small 110v welders myself. Had two and neither did what I needed. I would say the Millermatic 175 would be an ideal welder since you will have the flexability of heavier stuff as well as your thinwall tubing.

    If you choose to stay with Mig, maybe consider switching to a DOM mild steel tube as you won't have the issue of cracking on the HAZ that you might with Tig if the weld isn't perfomed properly (with chromoly).

    No expert here...only some of my experiences.