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Miller xmt 350 VS good shape - $1100 - good deal or not?

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  • Miller xmt 350 VS good shape - $1100 - good deal or not?

    is it worth it ? I mainly want it for tig and stick (I have a mig). I'm not sure about the difference between this and the regular xmt 350 cc/cv. Any info before I agree to buy would be great. Thanks.

  • cruizer
    replied
    Originally posted by donts7 View Post
    Do you still have the damaged xmt 350 I want to upgrade my vs to cc/cv spec?
    Regards Don
    Stony plain

    Sorry nope, used to repair another 350

    Leave a comment:


  • donts7
    replied
    xmt 350

    Originally posted by cruizer View Post
    Nope just remove and replace components, nothing really technical.
    Do you still have the damaged xmt 350 I want to upgrade my vs to cc/cv spec?
    Regards Don
    Stony plain

    Leave a comment:


  • cruizer
    replied
    I've been sending these and many others to "RADWELL". They are batting 100% so far with me.

    Now that display board really hasn't changed much in 15 years, in other words I can pop on in from a 2010 machine into a 1996 and vice versa. I've got a bunch here if you really want one. $150 bucks. Think they are $400 ish new.

    Leave a comment:


  • b.maker
    replied
    Any suggestions?

    The 2 places near me I've tried just want to replace the board. The 3 I tried online say it's unrepairable. I probably haven't found the right place yet. Thanks for you help though.

    Leave a comment:


  • cruizer
    replied
    I'd be sending that board out for repair, tell them that the contactor circuit is fryed.

    Leave a comment:


  • b.maker
    replied
    Not sure about my test.

    I already have the boards out and on a bench and I checked both D15 and D21 from the display board with the multimeter and there was voltage going both ways, approx 1.264v and 1.420v going one way and approx .567v and .595v the other. I desoldered both and both read .596v one way and the other way nothing. I have a Hakko 808, so desoldering isn't a problem. I also have an old oscilloscope. If you have another thing you want me to try I'm up for it.

    Leave a comment:


  • cruizer
    replied
    Think its D15 or D21 on the display board. don't have to pull it out of the circuit to test it. Just use the diode test function on your meter.

    Or you can just send the board to "Radwell" for repair.

    Leave a comment:


  • b.maker
    replied
    Here you go

    The board assembly numbers are 219820 D and 213664 . It also has LF-11 on it. The machines s/n is LF-121929 . Stock number is 903471. Huge thanks if I can get it working.
    Last edited by b.maker; 09-12-2012, 12:57 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • cruizer
    replied
    The control board usually gives a Help 6, the output board usually a help7, sometimes the control transformers to run the igbts blow which will also give you a help 7. But you blow a IGBT transformer, you also take out a igbt. Never the less, shoot me the serial# and I can pretty much tell you which Zener is blown.

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  • cruizer
    replied
    No error codes makes it a blown zener on the display board. Display board runs the contactor circuit
    Last edited by cruizer; 09-12-2012, 08:26 AM.

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  • b.maker
    replied
    It's weird to me too...

    There are no error codes..I took it to a supposed certified Miller weld repair shop... they told me the 2 boards were bad. When I plug it in , everything appears to work. Just no output.
    I have an IGBT tester and all of them checked out.? I also have a bench power supply and physically input power to the IGBT's and SR1 individually and everything checked out there as well. I also have a couple of capacitor checkers and both the big blue capacitors checked out as well. I tested the diodes and the resistors on the little board attached to the IGBT's(desoldering them) and all checked out. I checked the main switch for continuity and good contact along with loosening and cleaning and re-tightening any grounds or cables I could find...no dice. I just don't know enough to find the problem but I think I have the equipment(with the exception of an IC tester) to test and replace anything on the boards. I'm willing to try anything because it's just an "electronic spare parts for a robot" in its current state.

    Leave a comment:


  • cruizer
    replied
    The usual problem is with the output board, igbts, or SR1. The output board while expensive to buy, is really easy to fix. IGBT's are not particularly expensive.

    Leave a comment:


  • cruizer
    replied
    Can't see both the display and control board going out at the same time. What was the error code?
    Last edited by cruizer; 09-11-2012, 05:03 PM.

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  • b.maker
    replied
    Let me think about it.

    I've also got a broken xmt 304 with 2 bad boards (213664 and 219820d). This was going to be a replacement. I'd like to have both machines (working of course) but the boards were listed as unrepairable and the upgraded cards that they need (240570 and 240500) are more than I paid for it. But it would be nice to have basically an equivalent machine as a replacement .

    Leave a comment:

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