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  • Portable Welder
    started a topic Welding shop concrete thickness

    Welding shop concrete thickness

    I did a 40' x 80' addition onto my existing shop, It is now time to pour the floor.
    My question is how thick should I make it.

    I will have semi trucks pulling inside, usually gravel trains for me to work on them which are empty, However I will also have the steel truck coming in to deliver once a week.

    I bought 6 x 6 x 6GA wire mesh to put in the floor, I plan on using a 6 bag mix which is 4000psi concrete.

    My hilo weighs 12,000 lbs plus the 7,000 lbs lift capacity which equalls 19,000 lbs. when fully loaded.

    I now have the sand compacted for the fourth time, ( watered down between compactions over a weeks time ) so the concrete will be about 6-1/4" deep.
    Keep in mind I'm using 6Ga. mesh verses the 10 ga.that is sold at the big box store.

    So my question is will the 6-1/4" be OK or should I go 8" in the area that the semi will pull onto and leave the rest 6-1/4" thick.

  • Portable Welder
    replied
    I got all the concrete poured, The inside slab is at least 6" plus at the walls and a little thicker where the trucks pull in 8" with the heavier wire mesh.
    I have coffee in the morning with the old guys at Mc dees and one of the old guys who owned the cement plant and now his kids run it.
    He said they were all lauphing at the concrete plant because I made chairs to hold my wire up.
    I also poured a 30' x 40' appron in front of the doors, That is all 8".

    Now I have to wait for things to cure before I bring the hilo in to set the runway beams for the crane.

    Leave a comment:


  • regal2800
    replied
    A 40'x80' garage addition is a fair sized structure. I am sure you had a structural engineer on board for this. What is his opinion on the floor loads? If the structure was done without plans you can still hire a structural engineer to calc out the loads and thickness of the slab for under $500. There are many factors here which need to be addressed and there is no reason to "guess."

    Leave a comment:


  • Doughboyracer
    replied
    Originally posted by Portable Welder View Post
    Dough Boy Racer, The nuts got welded inside the square tube and then the square tube got welded on the bottom side of the top flange. I had to do it this way because if I just were to weld the nut to the underside of the beam the concrete would block the hole.

    The concrete is going to be poured tomorrow on the onside of the beams.
    I understand that...I was giving you options for your plugs for that...and options for other things to cast in the floor.

    Leave a comment:


  • Doughboyracer
    replied
    Originally posted by JSFAB View Post
    OK, gotta ask. Why left-hand threads?????
    So when you tighten the bolt in the drilled and tapped hole it backs out the threaded rod plug.
    Last edited by Doughboyracer; 09-18-2012, 12:21 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Portable Welder
    replied
    Dough Boy Racer, The nuts got welded inside the square tube and then the square tube got welded on the bottom side of the top flange. I had to do it this way because if I just were to weld the nut to the underside of the beam the concrete would block the hole.

    The concrete is going to be poured tomorrow on the onside of the beams.

    Leave a comment:


  • JSFAB
    replied
    OK, gotta ask. Why left-hand threads?????

    Leave a comment:


  • Doughboyracer
    replied
    Idea...

    1" threaded rod, cut 2" pieces, drill and tap left handed, use a left hand bolt to remove, cap plug to keep dirt out...
    Its a lot of extra work, and the cap plugs will may not stay in but hey, it sounds like time and effort are not a problem.

    Are you sinking in some 2.5" tube with a cross rod in the bottom to use as floor drain/tool mounts? (vertical)

    Leave a comment:


  • Portable Welder
    replied
    I did alot of thinking and went ahead and drilled a 1-1/16" hole in the top of the beams, I then bought 1" nuts and welded them into a 2 x 2 x 3/16" square tube that I cut 4" long ( The nuts got welded flush on one end and capped on the other side to keep concrete from getting up inside the tube.)

    I then welded a 1/2" rod x 8" long across the bottom of the tube to act as a mudd hook, I then welded them to underside of the top flange of the beam.

    so I now have 74 holes that I can spin a 1" eye bolt into. It took a while but it will be worth it.
    To keep all the dirt out of the holes I will buy allen set screws that will stay inside and I will remove as needed.

    Leave a comment:


  • JSFAB
    replied
    Originally posted by Portable Welder View Post
    I would use flat bar that would weld to the beam and connect the chain to the flat bar with a clevis.
    Better yet.

    Too bad Don (DDA52) is no longer participating here; anything to do with steel and concrete, or any combination of the two, I don't think there's been anybody on any boards who knew more than him. Maybe Roy could call or email him, ask Don to contribute his input??????

    Leave a comment:


  • Bob Miller
    replied
    I like the flat bar idea. I weld chain down to my floor beams on one side of the chain, then break them off with a hammer after I'm done.(you know beat it on the right side then beat it on the left side till it breaks off. Then I trip over the stub for a week or so before I have my helper grind them off.

    Sounds like you going to a lot of trouble to do this job right, don't skimp on the concrete, 8'' or better.

    One last thing; make sure you get a good fill around the beams, other wise you'll have a hollow sound when you bang on them.
    Good Luck,
    Bob

    Leave a comment:


  • Portable Welder
    replied
    I would'nt be welding a chain to the beams, I would use flat bar that would weld to the beam and connect the chain to the flat bar with a clevis.

    I have thought about drilling the beams with a 1" nut on the bottom side for a 1" eye bolt to thread into.

    If I put holes on 3' centers I'm looking at 44 holes.

    My 2 center beams are W-12" at 53lb which have a 10" flange with and are 9/16" thick, I took these off a job and they have two 1/2" x 12" plates welded on each side to create a box so I will have to drill and tap these.

    I know in the long run I'll be glad if I do this but it means a few more days of work.

    Leave a comment:


  • JSFAB
    replied
    Usually, chains break loose when welded in such a way leverage is applied to the welded link, allowing it to twist and break either the link or the weld. Welding the first link in line to the direction of pull would eliminate this. Also, the use of D-rings (that can flop back and forth) will also prevent broken chains, they can always be air-arced off and reused.

    The big advantage to imbedding beams in the floor, you can always weld jigs, fixtures, and even the job itself down to the floor, insuring nothing moves while you are welding it up. Also, you can locate chains and pull-tabs exactly where you want them, vs. having to compromise all the time with permanent imbedded loops.

    Portable has been in business long enough, and just from reading his various posts on this board, I'm pretty confident he knows what he's doing.
    Last edited by JSFAB; 09-12-2012, 09:12 AM.

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  • NDAV8R
    replied
    Originally posted by Tryagn5 View Post
    I do not think you going to like welding on the beam everytime you want to pull a frame. Also if you have ever broken a chain pulling, you need the best anchor you can get.
    Kevin
    I agree. I have witnessed chain breaks from a distance and you can't even blink before the shrapnel fly! If you check, almost every frame shop in the country, uses chains. I have used 1/2" High tensil chains even for light applications. You can also use cable or solid rod links. Common sense goes a long way! My set up is for the smaller jobs, though.

    NDAV8R

    Leave a comment:


  • Tryagn5
    replied
    I do not think you going to like welding on the beam everytime you want to pull a frame. Also if you have ever broken a chain pulling, you need the best anchor you can get. Not sure of the beam thickness, but you could tap 1" holes in it to allow plates to be bolted up.
    Kevin

    Leave a comment:

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