Aluminum Joints

[FusionKing]

And move really fast!!

[hay-ride]

Aluminum joints

Thanks fusionking. I have both types of wire in .35. This is the thinnest aluminum I have attempted on my MM252 and the first trials were a train wreck. Burn throughs, cracking, craters, everything. I guess I will start from the beginning, get really tight joint fit ups and then tweak as needed.

[FusionKing]

The settings for 5356 would be different for the same metal on 4043.
You need to play with everything and learn your machine for sure, and get to where you can make decent looking welds.
But you do need the correct wire for the job at hand.
Generally speaking, 4043 and 5356 will cover most all of your needs.

[umahunter]

hmm

if you plan on doing boat projects your gonna have to use 5356 im sure alot of it is the 5356 ive done 4043 great then switching to 5356 and its harder to get nice welds fun with aluminum

[FusionKing]

I disagree
Stick with 5356 wire on 5052
That is the correct and stronger wire as well.
4043 is softer and would be better on 6061 at times.

[hay-ride]

Thanks kevhead63. I will give that a go next time I get some time.
I was hoping aametalmaster would also post his weld pics and settings from the guy at work he mentioned.

[kevhead63]

I think .030 4043 would work a little better for you then .035 5356, maybe try that.

[hay-ride]

Thanks Bob, It's encouraging to hear there is success out there with my set up. I look forward to your follow up.
George

[aametalmaster]

I work with a guy that does our aluminum guards and he is using a MM252 with the 30A gun. .030 4043 wire on 14 ga and his welds are perfect. I will get some pics and the settings as he has them written on the side of the machine...Bob

[hay-ride]

Hi All, I am looking for advise on MIG welding aluminum plate (going to build a flyfishing boat one of these days). I did some trials last weekend and had a heck of a time getting things to work (or look) the way I want. Sorry no pics yet as I won't get back to the shop for at least a week. In the meantime my mind has been wondering looking for solutions. I am not convinced my set up is good enough for this or if my settings and technique are bad.

The set up: MM252 with Spoolmatic 30A .035 - 5356 wire. 100% argon, Cleaned up the joints with SS wire brush. Plate stock is 5052 aluminum plate 0.080 thick. Push technique, etc

I think my settings were to the equipment recommendations except wire speed which is a bit unknown due to the spoolgun. Next time I plan to do the "pull the trigger, count to six and measure the wire trick, to ensure this not part of my issue.

So here are the questions so far...

Joints - 1) When butt welding plate this thin, do you recommend any gap in the joint OR butt them up tight? 2) Would there be a clear advantage to using a backer bar of some type when possible (steel, copper or other?) on the backside of the joint?

Upgrades - 1) Would upgrading to a MM350P improve these welds much? I am not against upgrading to pulse if it is a clear improvement. I contacted the local Miller rep to set up a trial day. In the meantime, does anyone have aluminum test beads on similar stock using pulse and no pulse? 2) Would upgrading to a push/pull gun make any difference other than easier to dial in the wire speed? Ergonomics?