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Hi All, I am looking for advise on MIG welding aluminum plate (going to build a flyfishing boat one of these days). I did some trials last weekend and had a heck of a time getting things to work (or look) the way I want. Sorry no pics yet as I won't get back to the shop for at least a week. In the meantime my mind has been wondering looking for solutions. I am not convinced my set up is good enough for this or if my settings and technique are bad.
The set up: MM252 with Spoolmatic 30A .035 - 5356 wire. 100% argon, Cleaned up the joints with SS wire brush. Plate stock is 5052 aluminum plate 0.080 thick. Push technique, etc
I think my settings were to the equipment recommendations except wire speed which is a bit unknown due to the spoolgun. Next time I plan to do the "pull the trigger, count to six and measure the wire trick, to ensure this not part of my issue.
So here are the questions so far...
Joints - 1) When butt welding plate this thin, do you recommend any gap in the joint OR butt them up tight? 2) Would there be a clear advantage to using a backer bar of some type when possible (steel, copper or other?) on the backside of the joint?
Upgrades - 1) Would upgrading to a MM350P improve these welds much? I am not against upgrading to pulse if it is a clear improvement. I contacted the local Miller rep to set up a trial day. In the meantime, does anyone have aluminum test beads on similar stock using pulse and no pulse? 2) Would upgrading to a push/pull gun make any difference other than easier to dial in the wire speed? Ergonomics?
The set up: MM252 with Spoolmatic 30A .035 - 5356 wire. 100% argon, Cleaned up the joints with SS wire brush. Plate stock is 5052 aluminum plate 0.080 thick. Push technique, etc
I think my settings were to the equipment recommendations except wire speed which is a bit unknown due to the spoolgun. Next time I plan to do the "pull the trigger, count to six and measure the wire trick, to ensure this not part of my issue.
So here are the questions so far...
Joints - 1) When butt welding plate this thin, do you recommend any gap in the joint OR butt them up tight? 2) Would there be a clear advantage to using a backer bar of some type when possible (steel, copper or other?) on the backside of the joint?
Upgrades - 1) Would upgrading to a MM350P improve these welds much? I am not against upgrading to pulse if it is a clear improvement. I contacted the local Miller rep to set up a trial day. In the meantime, does anyone have aluminum test beads on similar stock using pulse and no pulse? 2) Would upgrading to a push/pull gun make any difference other than easier to dial in the wire speed? Ergonomics?
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