What type of material should i use?

[hit_em]

Putting together my new wood shop, and i need to build a wood rack. I'm thinking of bolting it to a inside block wall. So i can utilize the space under it to store my tools (planer, table saw) when I am not using them. I've searched for a while now looking for steel strenghts and haven't had much luck.

I'm estimating that each level will have around 200 lbs of wood on it, I have 3 bars
across in the picture, but can add 4 or 5. The grey is the block wall and the red is the
steel, I'm planning on bolting the steel right through the block. Is this plan plausable? and what kind/size steel should i be using?

Edit: sorry for the lousy diagram, my microsoft paint skills are not the greatest. the overall length to store the wood will be 16'

[aametalmaster]

2x2x3/16 for the racks and 2x3 or 2x4 for the uprights. You can put the long side out and weld tabs to go thru the wall with the bolts...Bob

[hit_em]

Thanks for the fast reply bob. Do you see anything in the design that you would
change/improve on?

[BD1]

Hi, here is something similar on another site.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2125093&posted=1#post2125093

[go2building]

What type of wood are you putting on it, anything flexible or flimsy, if so I would add more up-rites and cut down on the size. Can you pin to rafters/floor joists on top and floor on bottom, add shear strainth?

[hit_em]

What type of wood are you putting on it, anything flexible or flimsy, if so I would add more up-rites and cut down on the size. Can you pin to rafters/floor joists on top and floor on bottom, add shear strainth?

type of wood would be 2x4 - 2x10 that short of thing, wouldn't be anything flimsy.
the wood shop will be in a basment type area. So yes i can secure it to the floor joists above if need be. I would not be able to secure to the bottom concrete floor due to infloor heating.

[go2building]

Ok (3) 2 X 3 X 3/16 should be more than enough. If you weld the 2 X 2 X 3/16 to the 2 X 3 X 3/16 you don't need the diagonals

[hit_em]

Ok (3) 2 X 3 X 3/16 should be more than enough. If you weld the 2 X 2 X 3/16 to the 2 X 3 X 3/16 you don't need the diagonals

Perfect, that's just what I was looking for. The ideal way would be without the diagonals, so that's good to know. Should I be attaching the up rights to the floor joists above as well ? Once again thanks for all the help and info.

[go2building]

You could weld 2 X 2 across the front to stop deflection side to side?

[go2building]

I'm planning on bolting the steel right through the block.


You are planing on using steel plates on other side of wall? Using 1/2 or larger galvanized threaded rod?

[hit_em]

Yes plates on the other side. Was going to use 5/8 rod

[Helios]

I'm no engineer but my main concerns would be:

1. If you have more than 2 supports under each board, making sure they all line up close to perfect, to prevent putting warp/bend in the wood

2. I think I might make the horizontal supports slope a bit back toward the wall, so that if they bend slightly under load, there won't be a tendency for the boards to slide off and bonk you in the head while you're using your table saw.

[go2building]

I'm no engineer but my main concerns would be:

1. If you have more than 2 supports under each board, making sure they all line up close to perfect, to prevent putting warp/bend in the wood

2. I think I might make the horizontal supports slope a bit back toward the wall, so that if they bend slightly under load, there won't be a tendency for the boards to slide off and bonk you in the head while you're using your table saw.

I think OP said he was using 3 up-rites , 3 should be ok for preventing warp/bending, as long as they are not at the ends and are in 4' from ends. You could put a pin system at ends like they do at the big DIY stores, to stop boards from falling