Are the suggested panel setting too freakin' hot or am i just too old and slow for a blue machine? I'm burning through 3/16 like it is tin foil!
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Gotta ask.... MM 211
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Yeah, it is.... BUt i dont think im that slow.
If you can weld a 2G test plate with this thing set to it's cover settings, then i will applaude you.
Being my first inverter type machine, i am just not familiar with it and wanted to know if others feel the same way. Atleast with the old red machine, i could see my volts amd IPM and know where i stand.
I honestly asked the question to see if the hot settings are the norm, or if i needed to have my machine looked at.
Maybe i need to just burn a roll of wire at each wire speed designation and calculate my IPM and go from there.....
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hi,you could search 211 and see what comes up. heres something interesting about dual shield and 211. Try taking the cane out of your hand .I'm thinking about adding a 211 to my collection. have fun.
http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=63270
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thanks for the link to welding web, will have to hang out there a bit and do some reading.
Im using solid wire, so i guess i will go down to the next lowest settings and see what happens. I am so used to having a digital read out, all my tested settings are acutaul IPM and voltage numbers.... I dont know how the dial numbers on the Miller equate to acutal IPM and volts. Guess i will just have to figure that out later.
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As I understand it the wire feed numbers on the dial indicate the percentage of total wire feed available. So if your 211 has a maximum of 400 imp mad you set the knob at the half way mark it will feed about 200 imp. A whole lot of reviews suggest that the 211 is a hot welder. Fortunately it also has infinite adjustment on the metal thickness so you can move it down just a little bit toward the next thinner metal thickness even if you are using Autoset and it will cool it down a bit.
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I sold my 211 when I found a good deal on a 252/dual running gear/30A spool gun and 2 K size bottles - but I agree, it runs hot. I found that about halfway between the thickness I was actually welding and the next size DOWN was about right.
That's whether you set manually or use Autoset.
The 252 also runs a bit hot, I find that Miller's own MIG calculator (the slide rule one) is a bit hot for me, so I pick the thinnest metal to be welded and stay near the low end of the recommendations, at least for the first pass.
Other things that'll help are a good helmet, a steady rest that's adjustable so you can stay on track COMFORTABLY, and NOT welding while you're TIRED. If a project takes a while to cut out, set up, clean, clamp, etc, I may TACK it that day but I'll start fresh the NEXT day on welding it out.
Works for me, even at 68... Steve
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For those that want to dial in their wire speed real close, here's a little test you can do, and it's right on.
Look at your watch and pull the trigger on your wire gun and let it run for 6 seconds.
Cut the wire and measure the amount of wire that you cut off at the tip.
Take that measurement and add a zero to it. and that'll be the amount of wire your gun is set to run in 1 minute. From that point, if it's too much or not enough, you can readjust the wire speed up or down to get what you want. After adjustment retest again.
Hope this helps.Bill
Miller Dialarc 250 AC/DC
Miller 251
Thermodynamics Plasma arc
Benard "Center Fire" wirefeed gun
Miller alum. spool gun
Tweco Tig torch
Victor O/A torches
B&D Wildcat 9" grinder
DeWalt 10 amp 4-1/2" grinders
7"x12" bandsaw
A shop that's always going to be to small.
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I really like my 211 and use it a lot. I will say, though, that I just "kind of" use the settings around the knobs to get in the ballpark for whatever I am welding, so I haven't really noticed that it welds "too hot" or "too cold" or whatever. I usually just sort of take a stab at where the knobs should be, make a little test weld and then crank it in whatever direction I think it needs to go....or maybe just move faster or slower. Good welds are, after all, NOT about the automation, but are all about using your judgement to see how the puddle looks and moves and then look at the finished weld. Make adjustments from there. Granted, the numbers on the machine should get you "in the ballpark", but they can not and WILL NOT always be exactly right for every situation.
I am NOT saying that I am some kind of a magical weldor, but the difference between being a WELDOR and just a part of some big machine that calls himself a "Weldor" is using judgement and experience to figure out problems yourself, set your machine correctly yourself and NOT just do what someone or some chart tells you to do.Don J
Reno, NV
Never pick a fight with an old guy. Old guys are too smart to fight and get hurt. They'll just kill you and get it over with.
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Originally posted by Sberry View PostToo hot is just right. The door charts are always too cold for me, just right for V up but I usually have these little machines set to wide open.
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