why is this collet holder stuck?

[sandbert]

Hi folks,
I have a recently acquired Syncrowave 200, got it on a reasonably good deal with only 14.5 hours on the machine. I'm just starting to figure this thing out, as well as the whole welding process as I set upon my first project, a welding table. Figuring that I would need them at some point, I also got Weldcraft's accessories kit of various sizes of collets, collet holders, spare back caps, and gas lenses and nozzles. Just to see how a gas lens worked I thought I'd put one in, but the existing collet holder just will not come out. It's obviously made to unscrew, but it's stuck so hard that I'm afraid I'll wreck the entire torch if I torque it enough to break it loose. Of course if I've got a torch that I can't change to a different tungsten size, it's no good anyway. It's almost as if it's welded into place. Anyone every come across this? Any suggestions are appreciated.

[big mike]

I have had collet bodies that were tight enough that I had to slip a piece of rod through the gas ports to use as a lever........no,it should not be that tight but....

[jessehornberger]

over heated

my guess would be that the collet body was over heated and deformed in the torch. if it were me i would use some plyers and un-screw. collet bodys dont last forever due to the heat cycles so you will have to take it out sometime...

[c wagner]

Heat.
Take the back cap off and spray some of your favorite penetrating oil/ film in there (don't go too crazy, just more to clean up later). I can usually get mine out with the small jaw on my mig pliers when they get that stuck.
Hopefully it doesn't chew up the threads too bad, if it does you can chase the threads with a tap (3/8-32 UNEF bottom tap). If it's beyond that point then your forced to buy a new torch.

[H80N]

Penetrating oil??????????????

Heat.
Take the back cap off and spray some of your favorite penetrating oil/ film in there (don't go too crazy, just more to clean up later). I can usually get mine out with the small jaw on my mig pliers when they get that stuck.
Hopefully it doesn't chew up the threads too bad, if it does you can chase the threads with a tap (3/8-32 UNEF bottom tap). If it's beyond that point then your forced to buy a new torch.

YIKES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Penetrating Oil???... Really??? .... not on any of my TIG torches!!!

[sandbert]

it's out now

thanks for the help. I put the torch in a vise and just twisted the collet body out. It came out without any threads on the back end, and the female threads on the torch look pretty beaten up. So I'll invest in that tap and give it a try. But one more question: the syncrowave 200 is a 200 amp machine, right? It comes with a Weldcraft WP-17 torch, what I've got, that's rated to 150 amps. And their manual admonished not to go over that limit. So why ship a 200 A welder with a 150 A torch? There must be a logical reason, but if I do ever get a new torch should I just get the WP-26, rated to 200 A? Any downside?

[H80N]

•Amperage 150 DCSP maximum, 100% duty cycle

That means that it is usable at higher amperage with reduced duty cycle.... I have a 17 on my Dynasty 200DX and it has been fine...

you might consider upgrading to a w-20 series water cooled torch with cooler for increased duty cycle at full output... it will be less portable but you have the benefit of a smaller more agile torch....

[c wagner]

YIKES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Penetrating Oil???... Really??? .... not on any of my TIG torches!!!

Actually I just use WD40, give it a quick blast with the air nozzle after, spark it up on a chunk of crop for a minute or two and your good to go.

[Country Metals]

You can also be brave like I do on things and light the oil on fire and have an air gun to blow it out in 2 seconds. that will get rid of anything in there and it isn't long enough to burn anything.