Stick welding using 5p rootrun, 16/18tc fill and cap

[Hilly]

I have to do a weld test using 5P electrodes for the root run havent used these before any advice on root gap, landing, amps etc would be great, have been told they are a vertical down electrode? Any advice would be great it is on Sch 40 pipe in 6 G

[tommy2069]

if it's 6"pipe i would go with a 1/16 to 1/8th "gap and run the amps about 120/125. but you didn't say what size sch 40 pipe?? if it's smaller diameter then you wanna run cooler as to not heat the pipe up to much. but for me i wouldn't run anything over 125 amps .just work it in there and watch the heat.

[Hilly]

Cheers Tommy, yeh the test will be on 4 to 6 inch sch 40 pipe is it correct that they are for vertical down runs and what kind of landing do you have with it about a 2/2.5 mm? Thanks for your help

[tommy2069]

sorry can't answer that question for ya it's been over 14 years sinse i last took that test. .i was injured on the job back in 1999 and have been fully disabled sinse. i still have a few machines and make projects but no longer have the need to test anymore.when i used to take them i would go in they would have the pipe already beveled and sitting there .all the guy would do was help hold it in position for me to set it up.i would normally take 4 1/8th" rods and bend them into v's and knock the flux off and use them as my spacers.after the pipe was tacked i then yanked them out and proceeded with what ever i wanted to do it didn't matter if it was uphand or down hand. but from memory all my stringers was mainly downhands and the rest like fillers and caps was uphand.i would use the 5p 5/32 for the stringers and then the rest was all 1/8 lh .when i done my b31 pipe test it was o 2"and that gave me the ability to weld anything 2"and bigger but nuthing under that size.the small pipe was all 3/32. and when you weld that small pipe you better not slack cause it heats up fast when you strike arc run with it cause if you slow down for just a sec that pipe will burn through on your stringer pass. maybe some who has tested recently can give you more insite into the test but like i said it's been a long time sinse i took any test to remember most details. it's all now a hobby for me...

[1930case]

That's pretty much how we trained students to test and is still valid. Practice to get a good root pass because that's often cause for rejection. Keep the rod in the root and don't back out or the root pass will "suck back".

I suggest getting some pipe and welding a few coupons to get the hang of it prior to testing.

Prep it pretty and don't forget to feather your tacks with a file, or a grinder with a cutting disk if allowed.

[angus31632]

Hay bud,
It took me almost 6 months to pass the UA 21 test (2" sch 120 6010/7018 6G) for the root pass i run mine really cold about 52-58 amps with a 1/8 gap and land stick that rod in there and i use a whip and pause motion, Its really hard to master but you can pretty much weld any gap you can step across if you've had to and if you've seen some of the field welds Ive seen fit up you'll be thankful you learned to do it this way. Heres a tip for your 7018 cap. Its easier to explain in the 5G position but you can apply this to 6G. You want a parallel angle to you rod of about 0-5 degrees the major tip tho is the perpendicular angle you want about a 15-20 degree angle. In the 6G it helps tremendously because you have a better view of your weld puddle and it lays the bead down nice to prevent excessive crowning. hope this help bud.
Walt

[Hilly]

Cheers for the advice everyone, I appreciate it. Think the best thing for me to do now is start practicing

[theprentice]

hey there hilly. i passed this test for the UA a year or so ago. it was a six inch sch.40 coupon. 6010 in 7018 out. here is a breakdown of our test procedure. the coupons we are given have to be sent from the UA. straight out of the box. i prep the coupons by using a flapper wheel on the inside and outside to get rid of the mill scale. then i put an 1/8 land on each coupon. i typically use an 1/8" gap but 3/32 is permitted. you have to put four tacks in appx 3/4" long. our test calls for 1/8 5p which works out because you can typically run that at about the same amperage as you would for your 3/32 7018. you are allowed to tack up on a 2g. after your tacks are put in, ground out and feathered. you then bring the inspector in. if he oks your tacks he then lets you choose where you want top to be and lets you adjust your stand to the height you want. he then stamps a "T" on your coupon and marks the height of your stand. he then notes your start time. i think we had two hours for this test. then you are allowed to proceed. if he fails your tacks then your done. after you run your root pass, all in an uphill progression, and grind it out, you have to bring the inspector back in to check the root. if its good then you can cap out. if not your done. no more than a 1/32 of undercut or over an 1/8 of penetration on your root. i typically run a quick hot pass, two stringers over that. and then cap out. 3 or more stringers mandatory. bring the inspector back in and if it passes the visual then it'll go to x ray. no more than an 1/8" above flush and no more than a 1/32 of undercut on your cap. absolutely no arc strikes on finished coupon. sorry that was pretty thorough but i'm not sure how many weld tests you've taken and if your like me than you like all the info you can get. biggest thing is to be patient and take your time. good luck man.

[HAWK]

All recent activity by doogscing has been reported as spam with a rrequest to block the appropriate IPs, etc.

HAWK

[Hilly]

Cheers for the info theprentice appreciate it