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  • Syncrowave 300 power one side only?

    Help! I have an old Miller SyncroWave 300 that I have been using lightly for TIG welding and it has a pulse feature and two power dial gauges. Since it is hooked up to a 20 AMP (220V) I have been tig welding at about 150 amps for some time and loving it… until for no particular reason I powered up after using it earlier today, and it was super low power! I checked the two dial (Analogue) gauges and only the left one moved, the right one… nothing.
    Something tells me that this BIG blue beast is fine, but some sort of circuit breaker or reset switch failed. I am unemployed and have been able to do side jobs to pay bills so I am desperate to get this back up but I cannot take to a repair facility presently. (Hum I wonder if they even work on these old units?)
    Any help is appreciated, like I said, it was working fine just before the third power-up today and then, no power from the “right” power gauge indicator.
    Thanks in advance – I have really learned a lot on this Miller and I am under the gun to finish a SCCA roll cage and need the TIG. ~ John (Sonoma)

  • #2
    Originally posted by redbull View Post
    : Since it is hooked up to a 20 AMP (220V)

    You definitely need help. Why do you think a 20 Amp circuit breaker is sufficient to power your Syncrowave 300?

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    • #3
      Redbull

      http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o350p_mil.pdf

      please read the manual...... it will tell you what those dials do.....
      .

      *******************************************
      The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

      “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

      Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Dipsomaniac View Post
        You definitely need help. Why do you think a 20 Amp circuit breaker is sufficient to power your Syncrowave 300?
        I know it is not the 50 amps I want, but it's all I havd on my 220 circut, so I just need low amps anyways so it's underpowered but like I said I rarely need to crank-up amps.

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        • #5
          I don't think 150 amps qualifies as low power......maybe 50-60 would.
          Roger Troue

          Retired since 2004

          Miller 211
          Miller 200 Syncro
          Miller 375 Extreme

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          • #6
            The inrush when you start the thing is around 18-20 Amps, so your likly on a 50-60 amp breaker. As even if you could actually start the unit, a 150 amp output equates to a 55+ amp input. A slow blow 50 amp breaker would handle the draw to point.

            A 20 amp breaker would give you a max of 40-50 amps output but I doult even that is possible.
            Last edited by cruizer; 07-26-2011, 09:15 AM.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by H80N View Post
              Redbull

              http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o350p_mil.pdf

              please read the manual...... it will tell you what those dials do.....
              Thank you, upon reading the attachment I now understand my volt meter works, but my AMP meter barely moves... not sure if it might be something like the doubble "circut breaker" looking power switch.

              It's as if I had the power dial all the way to the lowest position... tiny spark and not quite enough power to lelt a 1/16 (70-s) filler rod? What would cause this big beast to looks all that power?

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              • #8
                Voltmeter

                The first thing that I would do is check the power going into the welder with a voltmeter. Always good to check these things. Also look at the size of the wire in the wall, and what the breaker really is.

                I don't think that 20 amps input is going to do much with that beast. You can check the manual, but my notes say that you need 120 amps in to get 300 amps out. That suggests that to get 150 amps out you would need 60 amps in or thereabouts.

                Richard
                Syncrowave 200, Millermatic 211, Victor torch, Propane forge....

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by cruizer View Post
                  The inrush when you start the thing is around 18-20 Amps, so your likly on a 50-60 amp breaker. As even if you could actually start the unit, a 150 amp output equates to a 55+ amp input. A slow blow 50 amp breaker would handle the draw to point.

                  A 20 amp breaker would give you a max of 40-50 amps output but I doult even that is possible.
                  So in this theory, I could dial down to 40 amps and it should work... I will try this but why did it work (for a year) before this happened?

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by raferguson View Post
                    The first thing that I would do is check the power going into the welder with a voltmeter. Always good to check these things. Also look at the size of the wire in the wall, and what the breaker really is.

                    I don't think that 20 amps input is going to do much with that beast. You can check the manual, but my notes say that you need 120 amps in to get 300 amps out. That suggests that to get 150 amps out you would need 60 amps in or thereabouts.

                    Richard
                    I will check voltage and post later today, but the strange thing is... why did this work fine for a year, and now suddenly there is very low power? is it possibale one of the two 100 legs (for 220v) has dropped power? Would the "beast" still power-up with only one leg (110v)? I all cases I will invest on a 60 amp circut breaker next.

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                    • #11
                      Stuck breaker?

                      One possible explanation is a stuck breaker. If the breaker was stuck, it might fail to trip where it should. Some suggest that you should cycle breakers once in a while in case corrosion has caused the breaker to stick. I don't know, however, what might cause a breaker to stick and then later become unstuck.

                      Richard
                      Syncrowave 200, Millermatic 211, Victor torch, Propane forge....

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                      • #12
                        Pozitivnoe FOTO

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by redbull View Post
                          I all cases I will invest on a 60 amp circut breaker next.
                          Don't forget to make sure you have heavy enough wire to carry 60A! Magic Smoke Alert!

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Helios View Post
                            Don't forget to make sure you have heavy enough wire to carry 60A! Magic Smoke Alert!
                            Ya I got some garden hose thick wire four 2 guage wires - dam thing wags as much as the "Beast" so the citcut breakers seem like the best place to start. I blew them a few times when I cranked-up the amps >200 so that may be the problem. Related question, if each leg og the 220 puts out 110 I should use a volt meter to test each leg seperatly with one in common... right? (not wanting to fry my life away!) Thanks!
                            Last edited by redbull; 07-26-2011, 01:51 PM.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by raferguson View Post
                              One possible explanation is a stuck breaker. If the breaker was stuck, it might fail to trip where it should. Some suggest that you should cycle breakers once in a while in case corrosion has caused the breaker to stick. I don't know, however, what might cause a breaker to stick and then later become unstuck.

                              Richard
                              Well I was hopful that this would be the problem, but I checked the voltage at each 220 leg, and they both put out 115 v so the power IN is fine (25 amps) and as I said I have been uding 25 amps in for a while with no problem.

                              I rechecked the 110 volt circutbreaker on the bottom front of the Syncrowave 300 - nope no change. When the pedal (or consol) is full on I have a voltage movement, but onlya the slightest movement of AMPs Any other recomedations? Ths is not the time I needed the Beast to loose his "guts"
                              ~John (Sonoma)
                              Last edited by redbull; 07-26-2011, 04:06 PM.

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