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  • Cold Saws

    I'm looking for some "working opinions" on cold saws- not abrasive chop saws. I'm thinking about the Milwaukee machine mostly because of the base and clamping setup. Has anyone used these or other brands of saw? What is your feeling for these things? Any bad experiences?
    Thanks for your input, Dave

  • #2
    Several previous discussions have covered this pretty well. Use the search.

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    • #3
      Do a search for "dry cut" that is what the milwaukee and other machines are that use carbide tipped blades and no coolant. A cold saw uses even slowrer RPM's then a dry cut and it uses coolant. Also cost A LOT MORE.
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      • #4
        Try this
        http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...highlight=chop

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        • #5
          I've had the Milwaukee 14" in my shop for about 5 years and have had no problems. It's a good saw. But depending on your intended use, you might want to check out the Evolution Rage 3, 10" double bevel. It looks like it is much more versital. Check out the video at www.vansantent.com.

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          • #6
            I looked at the Evolution saws -- and bought a Milwaukee 6190-20. I use Freud Diablo blades with it. I've been very happy with that setup for a few years now.
            Jack Olsen
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            • #7
              ive used the 6190 saw for along time. I just bought $80 worth of new clamping parts and lots of other small bits that wore or broke over time to somewhat restore the machine. Even brand new, the clamp on any of these dry cut saws are only ok at best. With a freshly sharpened blade, the saw is capable of cutting a near seamless joint on 2x2 tubing for TIG welding but the clamp will simply not let you do exceptionally accurate work.

              On the clamp of the 6190 Milwaukee saw, you'll notice the arm that is used to apply pressure to set the backstop into position. It is not possible to apply enough pressure to the backstop to keep it from moving. The problem in the design is that the backstop pivots on a single down pin style mechanism for making 45* cuts. What happens is that when you lock your backstop into position, whether 45* or 90* or whatever angle, and you begin applying pressure to your tubing via the clamp, your material and backstop start to deflect. This deflection is pretty substantial.

              Milwaukee should offer a $1000 version of this saw with a better quality vise and base for clamping your tubing squarely in relationship to the blade.

              That said, the saw does great work and has allowed me to grow my biz. I hope to be buying a new scotchman someday.

              Joel

              Attached Files
              Last edited by jimmy_pop; 05-07-2011, 09:37 PM.
              5x10 Bluco Fixture Table
              Cincinnati shear 10'x1/4"
              '11 Lincoln Power Mig 216
              '10 Syncro200 TIG runner
              Scotchman CPO 350 LT cold saw w/ AMS

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              • #8
                Jimmy-pop summed it up well. I have a Milwaukee and also had an Evolution. Both have the same issues with the material clamp and deflection. I picked up a used Scotchman 350mm cold saw and couldn't be happier. Production time has sped up and the ability to cut accurate angles has allowed me to tackle some projects I used to shy away from. Scotchman saws are built like tanks and the design has remained unchanged for 20+ years and parts are still available if needed. I still have the milwaukee and use it for rough cuts where precision isn't a concern.
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                • #9
                  I have the 6190 as well.

                  If you go that route, buy one as cheap as you can from E-bay etc. and buy the blades separate. You can find decent blades for much less that what they want for the full 'package'.

                  As for the clamp. My only complaint so far was trying to square it up. I needed to make perfect 90 degree cuts in aluminum and could never get the clamp perfectly square. When you tighten the bolt the clamp moves a bit. So you clamp the clamp then tightened. I was cutting 2x4 square aluminum tubing (relatively expensive stuff). I will say that with a non-ferous blade, it cuts aluminum like butter leaving a very smooth edge.

                  If you want to re-consider an abrasive saw. Try using a different blade. I used to use the relatively cheap home depot blades but now use Walter. The Walter cuts straighter and isn't as sensitive to pressure when it comes to kerf width. Abrasive saws melt through materials and as you cut, the more pressure, the more heat, the wider the kerf. Spend a bit more on the blade.
                  Con Fuse!
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                  • #10
                    Abrasive saws are old school, I've got a Hitachi dry cut saw and I love it. I've had no problems with the clampin' system on the Hitachi and I've been using it for about 4 years now. The cost of runnin' a dry cut saw seems the cost more, but if you let the blade do all the cutting the **** thing lasts well past a abrasive blades. You just got to shop around for a good price on blades. I was payin' $100 of one Evoluion blade and now I'm payin' $50 of an Avenger blade from Dillion Supply Company in NC.

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                    • #11
                      I'm possibly in the market for a dry cut saw..

                      I was wanting a water cooled saw but one of these might do the trick.

                      Which is better, Milwaukee or Evolution? Both seem to be in my price range.

                      What about the slider miter dry saws? Would one of those work better than say a Milwaukee 6190-20.

                      I'm just tired of cleaning the burrs off when using my abrasive wheel chop saw. I'm wanting cleaner cuts for tig welding, am I looking it the right direction?

                      Thanks for your time,
                      Dk
                      http://www.dkGoodrich.com
                      EFI Tuning Solutions
                      106lb/min 11k RPM 1.8l

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                      • #12


                        the quality of cuts on the 6190 are great, see above. just the clamp sucks for critical work. I usually run a flap disc over the tubing after cutting it just to better prep the weld joint. Otherwise, you can just cut and weld, especially for mig or stick.



                        I get these blades sharpened so many times ive lost track. I initially bought 4 72 tooth blades and one 90T blade 5 years ago. off ebay for about $75 on average each. Im down to 2 72t blades due to ruining blades or knocking too many teeth to make it cost effective to replace them. I still have the 90t blade. that wasnt worth the purchase. the 72 blades cut everything just fine.
                        Last edited by jimmy_pop; 05-10-2011, 08:31 AM.
                        5x10 Bluco Fixture Table
                        Cincinnati shear 10'x1/4"
                        '11 Lincoln Power Mig 216
                        '10 Syncro200 TIG runner
                        Scotchman CPO 350 LT cold saw w/ AMS

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          slider miter saws

                          A sliding miter saw with not work was a dry cuttin' metal saw. You'll just burn up the motor. Plus, you don't want that much movement in cuttin' zone. If that blade bites when cuttin' your goin to be in trouble.

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                          • #14
                            If you need a quality cold saw, then HABERLE is for you.

                            These are fabulous saws with premium quality vises, self contained coolant systems, quality German made machinery. The saws at my buddy's shop will be around long after we're all gone. My personal opinion is this is the best money can buy. By the way there are no issues with clamping and making precision cuts.

                            Home Page link: http://www.haberleusa.com/home.html

                            Metal Cutting Cold Saw link: http://www.haberleusa.com/metalcuttingcoldsaws.html
                            Scroll down to access the product line, videos, and online literature.


                            Truly Impressive machinery!

                            HAWK

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                            • #15
                              The only two I've personally seen used a LOT are Makita and Dewalt. I've seen both of those saws beat like a rented mule for several years in heavy construction use and they just keep on ticking.
                              I know of a Dewalt that was abused between 6 and 10 hours a day for over 4 years, 6 days/week. It looked like it was dredged up from the wreck of the Titanic but cut like new when I left the job.


                              J
                              Some days you eat the bear. And some days the bear eats you.

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