Please help anyone who knows what e6010 is suppose to look like

[countryboy281]

Ok thanks for looking today.
First off im not a welder...yet that is im still in school for welding smaw. I have been rod burnin e 6010 7024 and 7018. Problem is i dont know how close together the puddel is suppose to over lap. My instructor came in and has showed me many of times but each time it looks different. Dont get me wrong hes one of the best.but could some one please show me some pix on what its suppose to look like. Heres my cell if you have some pix you wouldnt mind sharing. Thanks yall.
Justin herrin 661-414-2079

[Rbeckett]

Justin, the key here is there isnt a "standard" bead, The best practice is to get the bead as consistent as you can and keep it that way for the entire weld. If you start out with very small ripples you should finiish it that way. I would be more concerned about tie in, penetration and bead profile since thos factors will affect you welds final strength. Aestetics will come with experience, just work on making sound welds for now...
Bob

[Hardrockshot]

http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/tools/basket.php?action=A&id=211630&qty=1

Go look at the above link, get a set of the books. They are worth every penny.......

[countryboy281]

bob

As far as uniformity goes I have that down with the above a 32nd face reinforcement I can make the tie in seem seamless cjp is also there. I'm wondering does it affect the strength of the well depending on how close the weld puddles are ? And hardrockshot I have some books seeing how I am in school there pretty good a little costly. But I have yet to even see on Google a standard weld length in the puddles ?

[Rig Hand]

I don't understand why everyone "whips" there xx10 rods. These rods run just fine at a nice steady drag.

I understand your situation tho, The more rod you burn the more you will learn. Keep at it, you'll get it.

Have your instructor watch you weld, instead of you watching him.

[big mike]

"Go look at the above link, get a set of the books. They are worth every penny......."

Truer words you will not find!
I got my kit a week or so ago and have just scratched the the surface.

I was running some 6010 last weekend,to work the bugs out of my Roughneck,and it ran nice both with and without whipping.I was told that whipping is supposed to help pre heat the area ahead of the weld.
The majority of the rod has a white/off white flux but some of it has red flux.The stuff with with the red was a somebich to get lit! and also I had to hold a VERY short arc or it would go out.

[Old Skool]

On anything 1/4" & up I run beads in a circular motion, straight drag works well with thinner sheet metal, especially downhand butt welds.

[Donald Branscom]

I don't understand why everyone "whips" there xx10 rods. These rods run just fine at a nice steady drag.

I understand your situation tho, The more rod you burn the more you will learn. Keep at it, you'll get it.

Have your instructor watch you weld, instead of you watching him.

The reason "everyone whips" their 6010 electrode is that, that particular rod is a deep penetrating electrode and does not deposit much metal.
The actual recommended procedure is to run the rod by moving forward 1/2 inch then back 3/8 repeat.
Sort of a back stepping type movement, not really whipping.

The finished look should look like fish scales or a stack of dimes type of look.
IF you buy a pocket welding guide it often times will describe how to run different types of electrodes.

Many welding stores do not sell pocket welding guides anymore unfortunately.
But you can buy the HOBART pocket welding guide on EBAY.

[kevin]

what i was told in welding class about whipping the 6010 and 6011 is needed due to the fact that the rod has lots of hydrogen in the flux and the whipping releases it, i run it by whipping it mostly when im trying to fill a gap or some defect that needs to be burned out, years back when i was green to the ship yard way of life, i went to the tool room and asked for a grinder, the tool guy snickered and said ""new guy"" and handed me a bunch of 1/8 6011, that will work fine he said, and after a while it actually did

[Rig Hand]

The reason "everyone whips" their 6010 electrode is that, that particular rod is a deep penetrating electrode and does not deposit much metal.
The actual recommended procedure is to run the rod by moving forward 1/2 inch then back 3/8 repeat.
Sort of a back stepping type movement, not really whipping.

The finished look should look like fish scales or a stack of dimes type of look.
IF you buy a pocket welding guide it often times will describe how to run different types of electrodes.

Many welding stores do not sell pocket welding guides anymore unfortunately.
But you can buy the HOBART pocket welding guide on EBAY.

Donald,

I mean no disrespect but, I have burned probably a ton of 6010 and 8010 in the last few years. About 90% of that rod was burnt on x-ray pipe welds the rest was on thread-o-lets. I probably whipped a few caps on the T.O.L. but everything else was a drag or side to side motion. All of the reasons for whipping that people have listed are mind blowing. I'm no golden arm but, I've burnt a pound or two of stick rod. Most of which was out of position and not under the most ideal conditions. So I'll say it again, I don't understand why everyone "whips" there xx10 rods. These rods run just fine at a nice steady drag. Unless a couple thousand pieces of x-ray film and a dozen welding inspectors are wrong.

Just my thoughts.

[atc250r]

Donald,

I mean no disrespect but, I have burned probably a ton of 6010 and 8010 in the last few years. About 90% of that rod was burnt on x-ray pipe welds the rest was on thread-o-lets. I probably whipped a few caps on the T.O.L. but everything else was a drag or side to side motion. All of the reasons for whipping that people have listed are mind blowing. I'm no golden arm but, I've burnt a pound or two of stick rod. Most of which was out of position and not under the most ideal conditions. So I'll say it again, I don't understand why everyone "whips" there xx10 rods. These rods run just fine at a nice steady drag. Unless a couple thousand pieces of x-ray film and a dozen welding inspectors are wrong.

Just my thoughts.

I concur. Lots of people "whip", but it is not mandatory.

[Sberry]

I agree I have never heard of some of those but,,,, some of you guys have a license to run it any way you want but the new users should learn to whip and pause this rod, this is what makes control especially in less than uniform or ideal joints. Fill a gap, closer whips and various spacings.

[Sberry]

One more.

[Jonesy70]

I have been welding 25 years or so and I am now an instructor..."Whipping" is more a slang term for your motion...6010 you can run in a back in forth motion or a side to side motion....I have run it in circles and even in squares...My bosses when I worked in industry used to always complain that none of my welds "looked the same" But they met all exceptable criteria and 98% of the time, passed an Xray...I used to tell my bosses that if you wanted a show piece weld...get another welder...if you wanted to pass the x ray...I will weld it...just cover it with insulation when I am done!!!

The picture above my post is a good example of a proper welld with 6010

[Rig Hand]

I would agree that its worth learning/teaching, mainly because you learn rod control and how to manipulate your puddle. It seems most people say "6010, oh you have to whip that rod" when it's not true or necessary.

Remember a while back we had a dicussion on the "stack of dimes" look with mig welds and how some folks thought it was a lot of extra work and created stress riasers in the weld. Seems like the same beating just a different horse.