Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Please help anyone who knows what e6010 is suppose to look like

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • atc250r
    replied
    Originally posted by Rig Hand View Post
    Donald,

    I mean no disrespect but, I have burned probably a ton of 6010 and 8010 in the last few years. About 90% of that rod was burnt on x-ray pipe welds the rest was on thread-o-lets. I probably whipped a few caps on the T.O.L. but everything else was a drag or side to side motion. All of the reasons for whipping that people have listed are mind blowing. I'm no golden arm but, I've burnt a pound or two of stick rod. Most of which was out of position and not under the most ideal conditions. So I'll say it again, I don't understand why everyone "whips" there xx10 rods. These rods run just fine at a nice steady drag. Unless a couple thousand pieces of x-ray film and a dozen welding inspectors are wrong.

    Just my thoughts.
    I concur. Lots of people "whip", but it is not mandatory.

    Leave a comment:


  • Rig Hand
    replied
    Originally posted by Donald Branscom View Post
    The reason "everyone whips" their 6010 electrode is that, that particular rod is a deep penetrating electrode and does not deposit much metal.
    The actual recommended procedure is to run the rod by moving forward 1/2 inch then back 3/8 repeat.
    Sort of a back stepping type movement, not really whipping.

    The finished look should look like fish scales or a stack of dimes type of look.
    IF you buy a pocket welding guide it often times will describe how to run different types of electrodes.

    Many welding stores do not sell pocket welding guides anymore unfortunately.
    But you can buy the HOBART pocket welding guide on EBAY.
    Donald,

    I mean no disrespect but, I have burned probably a ton of 6010 and 8010 in the last few years. About 90% of that rod was burnt on x-ray pipe welds the rest was on thread-o-lets. I probably whipped a few caps on the T.O.L. but everything else was a drag or side to side motion. All of the reasons for whipping that people have listed are mind blowing. I'm no golden arm but, I've burnt a pound or two of stick rod. Most of which was out of position and not under the most ideal conditions. So I'll say it again, I don't understand why everyone "whips" there xx10 rods. These rods run just fine at a nice steady drag. Unless a couple thousand pieces of x-ray film and a dozen welding inspectors are wrong.

    Just my thoughts.

    Leave a comment:


  • kevin
    replied
    what i was told in welding class about whipping the 6010 and 6011 is needed due to the fact that the rod has lots of hydrogen in the flux and the whipping releases it, i run it by whipping it mostly when im trying to fill a gap or some defect that needs to be burned out, years back when i was green to the ship yard way of life, i went to the tool room and asked for a grinder, the tool guy snickered and said ""new guy"" and handed me a bunch of 1/8 6011, that will work fine he said, and after a while it actually did

    Leave a comment:


  • Donald Branscom
    replied
    Originally posted by Rig Hand View Post
    I don't understand why everyone "whips" there xx10 rods. These rods run just fine at a nice steady drag.

    I understand your situation tho, The more rod you burn the more you will learn. Keep at it, you'll get it.

    Have your instructor watch you weld, instead of you watching him.
    The reason "everyone whips" their 6010 electrode is that, that particular rod is a deep penetrating electrode and does not deposit much metal.
    The actual recommended procedure is to run the rod by moving forward 1/2 inch then back 3/8 repeat.
    Sort of a back stepping type movement, not really whipping.

    The finished look should look like fish scales or a stack of dimes type of look.
    IF you buy a pocket welding guide it often times will describe how to run different types of electrodes.

    Many welding stores do not sell pocket welding guides anymore unfortunately.
    But you can buy the HOBART pocket welding guide on EBAY.

    Leave a comment:


  • Old Skool
    replied
    On anything 1/4" & up I run beads in a circular motion, straight drag works well with thinner sheet metal, especially downhand butt welds.

    Leave a comment:


  • big mike
    replied
    "Go look at the above link, get a set of the books. They are worth every penny......."

    Truer words you will not find!
    I got my kit a week or so ago and have just scratched the the surface.

    I was running some 6010 last weekend,to work the bugs out of my Roughneck,and it ran nice both with and without whipping.I was told that whipping is supposed to help pre heat the area ahead of the weld.
    The majority of the rod has a white/off white flux but some of it has red flux.The stuff with with the red was a somebich to get lit! and also I had to hold a VERY short arc or it would go out.

    Leave a comment:


  • Rig Hand
    replied
    I don't understand why everyone "whips" there xx10 rods. These rods run just fine at a nice steady drag.

    I understand your situation tho, The more rod you burn the more you will learn. Keep at it, you'll get it.

    Have your instructor watch you weld, instead of you watching him.

    Leave a comment:


  • countryboy281
    replied
    bob

    As far as uniformity goes I have that down with the above a 32nd face reinforcement I can make the tie in seem seamless cjp is also there. I'm wondering does it affect the strength of the well depending on how close the weld puddles are ? And hardrockshot I have some books seeing how I am in school there pretty good a little costly. But I have yet to even see on Google a standard weld length in the puddles ?

    Leave a comment:


  • Hardrockshot
    replied
    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...d=211630&qty=1

    Go look at the above link, get a set of the books. They are worth every penny.......

    Leave a comment:


  • Rbeckett
    replied
    Justin, the key here is there isnt a "standard" bead, The best practice is to get the bead as consistent as you can and keep it that way for the entire weld. If you start out with very small ripples you should finiish it that way. I would be more concerned about tie in, penetration and bead profile since thos factors will affect you welds final strength. Aestetics will come with experience, just work on making sound welds for now...
    Bob

    Leave a comment:


  • Please help anyone who knows what e6010 is suppose to look like

    Ok thanks for looking today.
    First off im not a welder...yet that is im still in school for welding smaw. I have been rod burnin e 6010 7024 and 7018. Problem is i dont know how close together the puddel is suppose to over lap. My instructor came in and has showed me many of times but each time it looks different. Dont get me wrong hes one of the best.but could some one please show me some pix on what its suppose to look like. Heres my cell if you have some pix you wouldnt mind sharing. Thanks yall.
    Justin herrin 661-414-2079
Working...
X