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Please help anyone who knows what e6010 is suppose to look like

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  • #16
    I have welded alot of pipe, latley all 2 inch sch80. We do not do any stick welding but some adive. technique is different from welder to welder. everyone has there way of doing things. What works for some may not work at all for you. The more you weld the more you will find your style. Take some of the suggestions from here and try them all maybe one will work for you. Once you find a way that is working better for you stick to it and perfect it. If you are doing something that is working and passing x rays and looks good no one can tell you your wrong.
    Linclon power mig 350MP

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    • #17
      if i could, i would copy all these post and bring them to my welding 101 class teacher and ask him whats up with this whipping stuff, he is most likely dead now, i think the attitude is that whipping trains rod control, i agree, but i find it more usefull for puddle freeze, just before its on your feet, also in repair work , i am sure that you guys have come across a job that was repaired by a butcher in the tightest of places, where any other type of welding, except whipping will produce the same results, with the whipping technique, welding and light gouging can be done without changing rods, ive done miles of xray work with 70, 80, 90 11018 rods, for most practical reasons the 10 and 11 rod was not intended for this use, who ever invented these rods, 6010 and 6011 was a genieus

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      • #18
        Okay so i wasnt clear i whip the rod because thats what the instructor calls for

        In the school i go to the requirement is whip and pause. I didnt mean to start an arguement i was told by a ol man once ask if you dont know because any and everyone is always willing to give there point of view. Im curious about what its suppose to look like afterwards the stack of dimes i know the text book words i study non stop out an 1/8 back a 16th. Im curious about pictures

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        • #19
          I was taught to go 1 electrode diameter forward and back 1/2 of the electrode diameter. I have seen 6010s and 6011s manipulated several different ways. C's circles and just plain ol dragging. I have done them all. Just find THE way that works the best for YOU and YOUR instructor approves of! He is the one that is grading your work!

          Steve
          Dont force it, use a BIGGER hammer.

          Linde VI-252C and Linde wire feeder.
          Hobart Cyberwave 300c.
          HH 140.
          Miller Big 40.
          Lincoln SAE 200J.
          Hobart GR-303.
          Lincoln tombstone welder.
          TD Cutmaster 52.
          Hobart Stickmate.
          Miller 211 w/ Spoolgun.
          Lincoln SA 200.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by countryboy281 View Post
            In the school i go to the requirement is whip and pause. I didnt mean to start an arguement i was told by a ol man once ask if you dont know because any and everyone is always willing to give there point of view. Im curious about what its suppose to look like afterwards the stack of dimes i know the text book words i study non stop out an 1/8 back a 16th. Im curious about pictures
            I'll try and run some tomorrow and post pics. Whipped beads of course.
            '08 F-350
            Vantage 400
            SA-250
            SA-200
            Invertec V350Pro
            Invertec V205T-AC/DC

            Miller 12VS suitcase
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            Track torch

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            • #21
              Originally posted by kevin View Post
              what i was told in welding class about whipping the 6010 and 6011 is needed due to the fact that the rod has lots of hydrogen in the flux and the whipping releases it, i run it by whipping it mostly when im trying to fill a gap or some defect that needs to be burned out, years back when i was green to the ship yard way of life, i went to the tool room and asked for a grinder, the tool guy snickered and said ""new guy"" and handed me a bunch of 1/8 6011, that will work fine he said, and after a while it actually did
              "what i was told in welding class about whipping the 6010 and 6011 is needed due to the fact that the rod has lots of hydrogen in the flux and the whipping releases it,"

              Did a welding teacher tell you that?

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Sberry View Post
                One more.
                Looks just right SBERRY!

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Rig Hand View Post
                  I would agree that its worth learning/teaching, mainly because you learn rod control and how to manipulate your puddle. It seems most people say "6010, oh you have to whip that rod" when it's not true or necessary.

                  Remember a while back we had a dicussion on the "stack of dimes" look with mig welds and how some folks thought it was a lot of extra work and created stress riasers in the weld. Seems like the same beating just a different horse.
                  Not the same thing at all.Different welding process,different filler material.

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                  • #24
                    why 6010--6011

                    Every one who has ever taking a welding class seems to get stuck welding with 6010 or 6011 for the intro to welding. It took me years to figure the techique for 6010 welding, aout 20 minutes for 7018. Seems to me easier to teach with 7018 or 7014 first, then work into the the 60 series rods. Also unless your pipelining, most shops(talking machinery repair) will only have 7018, maybe 7014.
                    Kevin
                    Lincoln ranger 305g x2
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                    • #25
                      yes, yes and yes, a welding instructor at a state vocational college said that, is that hard to believe, we feel comfortable to call 7018 lohi, or low hydrogen, who knows, this might of made sence to him, who was i to question him, i was taking the class, i obviously knew less than him, that was back when jimmy hendrix was playing the star spangled banner, he might of smoked too much before class and had a vision

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                      • #26
                        the reason for the whipping

                        7018 or 8010 is a higher carbon rod and requires more heat than 6010 and due to the change from one to another most are either too lazy or not in a position to change the settings on their welders so they whip the 6010 to keep from burning through the joint due to too much heat
                        Daniel
                        someone please tell me I'm wrong

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by pwteng View Post
                          7018 or 8010 is a higher carbon rod and requires more heat than 6010 and due to the change from one to another most are either too lazy or not in a position to change the settings on their welders so they whip the 6010 to keep from burning through the joint due to too much heat
                          I won't say my lazy azzs "ain't" done it a time or two out of necessity, but I call bull**** on this one!

                          HAWK

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by pwteng View Post
                            7018 or 8010 is a higher carbon rod and requires more heat than 6010 and due to the change from one to another most are either too lazy or not in a position to change the settings on their welders so they whip the 6010 to keep from burning through the joint due to too much heat
                            If that is the kind of knowledge you possess, please refrain from posting anymore.

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                            • #29
                              Looks like all of his posts are of this caliber. Maybe they are just to get his link on the forum?
                              Gordie -- "I believe you understand what you think I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant."

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                              • #30
                                Well it ain't pretty but, its something. horizontal fillet, 5/32 6010, Invertec 350 @ about 125 amps. I might have to fire up the SA-250 to redeem myself
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                                '08 F-350
                                Vantage 400
                                SA-250
                                SA-200
                                Invertec V350Pro
                                Invertec V205T-AC/DC

                                Miller 12VS suitcase
                                Miller spectrum 2050

                                Pipe beveler's
                                Track torch

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