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help!!!how to stop pulling an eye or butthole

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  • help!!!how to stop pulling an eye or butthole

    hey guys i need some of your useful knowledge if you would be so kind. i'm a union pipefitter/welder and i'm getting ready to take my UA41 test on saturday. if you are not familiar it is a 2" sch.80 tig in/tig out coupon. it's a carbon coupon but 309 dissimilar rod. anyway i've got my root looking good and my cap looks real good except for i cant seem to stop pulling a butthole every time i stop. i never had these problems with my ER70s. when i'm getting ready to stop i soak in my puddle and then roll out just like i normally would on my carbon rod. i havent tig welded a whole lot of stainless until recently so im wondering if i'm missing something. other than the buttholes im confident it would pass a visual. i'm not even sure they would bust you on a visual, but regardless id like to know how to get rid of them . any help you could give me would be much appreciated.

    thanks again

  • #2
    Burning the stubs too short?

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Sberry View Post
      Burning the stubs too short?
      He stated it's tig all the way out not stick. To the question , you need to speed up quite abit at the end of your bead and out run your puddle til it drys up so to speak and you will eliminate the buttholes.
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      • #4
        Its basically a "fish-eye" that what its called on the bead & what most people call it anytime but, if you prefer to call it butthole....

        Stainless is notorious for fish-eyeing, carbon won't unless its really hot. Do as showdog said you have to start walking faster and shrinking your puddle before you pull out. A lot of guys will walk it out and then really pop there wrist to terminate the arc. However in doing all of this you can never loose your gas coverage. Any UA journeyman should be able to show this trick.

        Learning stainless is a lot like learning vertical 7018, it takes a little practice. Good luck
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        • #5
          I swear I posted on this earlier, but it must not have worked. I'm fairly inexperienced compared to some guys on here, but I have some of the best welders i've seen giving me advice. They've always told me to speed up and pop the trigger a few times, and it seems to work. On a root/fill pass, you can also roll the puddle up on the side of the bevel, so you dont leave a crater on the inside of the pipe. On the reinforcement, I either pop the trigger, or else let it fish-eye, cool it down a little, then just add a dab of metal over it, and file smooth.

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          • #6
            I was a stainless fitter and welder in the dairy industry and the way I did it was speed up to the point that you are not getting penetration thru the tube then pull off or let off the pedal. The hotter you run the more pronounced the crater.

            On pedal operation you can let up gradually till its not penetrating keeping the travel speed the same, works the same both ways.
            mike sr

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            • #7
              took the test you can't roll to the side because no arc strikes outside weld zone at end of weld pull rod and slowly decrease amps till puddle is gone if they let u grind you can roll up the rod break rod off and grind spot tookthat test because it qualifies you for more than one procedure good luck

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              • #8
                Stainless expands about 2x that of steel when heated. That means it shrinks as more as well.

                I can usuallly get the end of the bead relatively flat - maybe a tiny bit of a fish eye (I wouldn't call it a crater).

                I have in the past on the Dialarc (no way to feather the pedal because of the range settings) gone backwards over the bead, picking up speed a bit so the puddle gets thin. Then breaking the arc (lifting the rest of the way off the pedal).
                It leaves a slightly funny looking streak right down the middle of the bead - maybe 2x the width of the bead.
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                • #9
                  This is where a pulser and sequencer really can shine through when you are not able too.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Dipsomaniac View Post
                    This is where a pulser and sequencer really can shine through when you are not able too.
                    I can see the sequencer if set up correctly. I'd have to be doing a boat load of identical weldments and have the ramp down time set to coincide with my travel for sure. I can't see where the pulser would benefit anything in this scenario.

                    ???????

                    HAWK

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                    • #11
                      hey guys thanks for your replies in some way or another they helped but i will clarify a little to your posts. i guess i should have specified. i was runnin on a miller maxstar 250. no pedal for me. o and by the way way the coupon passed the visual even with a little fish eye. i guess we will see on the x ray. but one way or the other it bugs the **** out of me. thanks again.

                      showdog- what i'm doin is addin metal to last bit of my bead and then washing it in to tie in, then tryin to roll out. still pullin an eye. not to mention throwin some marks down the side. confused.

                      rig hand- i have tried rollin out but are you sayin an abrubt and quick roll out when the puddle is dry. every time i really try rollin out i just gouge the last half inch of the back bead.

                      hockeyguynick- not sure what you are talkin about. i'm tig weldin and lift arcing. no trigger pulling so doesnt help. guess i should have mentioned that. and regardless on a test coupon there isnt any filing smooth. but i didnt clarify, my bad.

                      popspipes- sorry my man i don't know what your talkin about. i'm lift arcin and not runnin anything thru a tube besides the argon. i have done a little work with the pedal but not enough to matter. thank you though.

                      tigman27- thank you. sounds like you know my concern. rollin out gouges everything else. since it is lift arc i have no way to decrease amps. and as i'm sure you know you cant grind on the cap. at least on our tests any capping with a grinder is a no no. so i'm left with a butthole.

                      con_fuse 9- thanks bro but no pedal

                      dipsomaniac- i am not able to

                      hawk- any ideas???

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by theprentice View Post
                        hey guys thanks for your replies in some way or another they helped but i will clarify a little to your posts. i guess i should have specified. i was runnin on a miller maxstar 250. no pedal for me. o and by the way way the coupon passed the visual even with a little fish eye. i guess we will see on the x ray. but one way or the other it bugs the **** out of me. thanks again.


                        hawk- any ideas???
                        Maybe one that might work for your situation. Work backwards from the end of your bead 3/8" or less just where the bead is still red hot and terminate the arc-quickly of course. I don't know that I have ever totally eliminated such fish eyes without a foot pedal.

                        My only thought at the moment.

                        Good luck man,

                        HAWK

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