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Bobcat225 break-in procedure

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  • Bobcat225 break-in procedure

    Anyone have any insight on the proper way to break-in a Kohler ch23? The Miller manual refers to the Kohler engine manual; but the Kohler manual doesn't really go into any detail other than checking the rpm's at low and high idle.

  • #2
    Not on a welding machine but on a genset, I used the 10 hour 1st oil change and then 50 hrs from there on. Since you cannot really predict the on demand duration it is really just do an early and consistant job of maintainence for a long life. I am a bit neurotic on the maintainence on machinery, so I change the air filter every oil change,,,cheap insurance I think!

    Peace,
    Paul

    ps, this isn't from any book just an informed opinion.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Paul Seaman View Post
      I am a bit neurotic on the maintainence on machinery, so I change the air filter every oil change,,,cheap insurance I think!
      .
      unless you're working in a really dusty environment, that's a waste of money... The air filter on mine still looks like it's brand new, even after I put a new one it at 500 hours...
      Bobcat 225NT
      Cutmaster 52
      Lincoln Weld-Pak 100 buzz box
      Caterpillar TH63
      '07 Kawasaki ZZR600

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      • #4
        Appreciate the answers

        Good information; appreciate the response. The machine runs really well and welds excellent. My concern was just to see what other people do as the owners manual doesn't really detail very specific instructions.

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        • #5
          The Kohler service manual instructs to run a fresh engine at idle for 2-3 minutes and then 5-6 additional minutes between idle and mid range but by the time you got your Bobcat that's already been done.

          The only other mention of "break-in" is to run the proper standard oil for the first 50 hours of operation for proper ring seating prior to switching to an approved synthetic oil if you choose to use same.
          MM200 w/spot controller and Spoolmatic 1
          Syncrowave 180 SD
          Bobcat 225G Plus LPG/NG w/14-pin*
          *Homemade Suitcase Wire Feeder
          *HF-251D-1
          *WC-1S & Spoolmatic 1
          PakMaster 100XL
          Marquette "Star Jet" 21-110
          http://www.millerwelds.com/images/sm...rolleyes.png?2

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          • #6
            duaneb55, Does this one change work for all the Kohler engines? and you said to use a synthetic oil. I know the book says a 10-30 synthetic. Is there a brand you like or better is there a brand of oil you do not like? TIA!

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            • #7
              Well I haven't checked every Kohler (gas) service manual but I can't think of any reason why there would be any differences. I suggest you check with your local Kohler dealer or with Kohler directly.

              My reference to synthetic oil use was IF used not that you had to use it.

              My only experience with synthetic oils is Mobil 1 but a friend swears by Royal Purple that he runs in all his Onans. Amsoil boasts 3rd party testing shows superior performance over Royal Purple and my only exposure to Amsoil products was their grease used on aerial turntable bearings.
              Last edited by duaneb55; 04-01-2011, 09:26 PM.
              MM200 w/spot controller and Spoolmatic 1
              Syncrowave 180 SD
              Bobcat 225G Plus LPG/NG w/14-pin*
              *Homemade Suitcase Wire Feeder
              *HF-251D-1
              *WC-1S & Spoolmatic 1
              PakMaster 100XL
              Marquette "Star Jet" 21-110
              http://www.millerwelds.com/images/sm...rolleyes.png?2

              Comment


              • #8
                Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF

                Tim, My Air Pak uses Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF in the compressor part. So maybe there is something to be learned here. Like Miller is familiar with Mobil 1 Synthetic,
                so.....
                Just my lame thoughts.
                Good Luck,
                Bob
                Millermatic 252 w/30A
                Big Blue Air Pak
                Ellis 3000 Band Saw
                Trailblazer 302 Air Pak w/ Wireless Remote
                8-RC
                Dynasty 200 DX
                XMT 350 MPa w/S-74 MPa Plus
                Millermatic 211
                Passport Plus
                Spectrum 625 X-TREME
                Lincoln SA-200 Blue Tint Red Face '63
                2-Lincoln SA-200 Red Face '68
                SA-200 Black Face '59
                SA-200 Green Lite '84
                SA-200 Green Lite '80
                SA-200 Red Face '69
                SA-200 Red Face '66
                SA-200 Green Lite '81
                '70 Black Face Round Barrel

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                • #9
                  Looks like it needs to be Mobile synthetic oil. After waiting all the time for a new welder I don't want to loose an engine due to a stupid mistake...... Thanks duaneb55 and Bob Miller.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by bpep View Post
                    Anyone have any insight on the proper way to break-in a Kohler ch23? The Miller manual refers to the Kohler engine manual; but the Kohler manual doesn't really go into any detail other than checking the rpm's at low and high idle.
                    Run the engine at or near full load.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      oil and maintanence

                      I work as a John Deere tech and synthetic oil is the only way to go. I use synthetic oil when ever I can even synthetic grease. I use synthetic in allot of high heat high power high torque high abuse applications. You can see smell and feel the diffrence. I feel that all maintanence is important. As far as air filters go chage em when you change the oil unless the manufacturer says you can blow it out but even then use your best judgement. After all you made an investment don't be tight and have a very expensive very bad day. Been there done that. Ever seen a grown man cry?
                      Last edited by garage built; 04-01-2011, 09:56 PM. Reason: Hit delete

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                      • #12
                        oil and maintanence

                        that all maintanence is important. As far as air filters go chage em when you change the oil unless the manufacturer says you can blow it out but even then use your best judgement. After all you made an investment don't be tight and have a very expensive very bad day. Been there done that.

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                        • #13
                          bpep,
                          There is really no break in procedure other than run it and use it as normal. I'd avoid long idle times and put it to work.

                          It's always a good idea to change oil after the first 25-50 hours and then every 100 after that. Depending on how hard you run it, it could take up to 200 hours to break in. After that, you can use synthetic oil. Don't extend oil changes with synthetic though and use the weight that is recommended on the maintenance label.

                          I hope this helps.
                          Have a great day!

                          John Leisner
                          Product Manager
                          Miller Electric Mfg. Co.

                          Owner and user of:
                          Trailblazer 302 and Legend 301
                          Smith Dual Guard oxy-fuel system
                          Various borrowed Millermatics and Spectrums.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I don't mess with air filter unless its dirty and under most conditions especially with part time use it wont be issue for long time. Change oil out after 50 hrs or so and these days I might go synthetic if I was running hard and was fussy, I got a couple and they will rust away before the engines ever give it up for lack of maint. People lose a lot of sleep over this kind of thing and most doesn't amount to much in the grand scheme of things. Regular maint under severe conditions pays but lots of them have lived long happy lives with very little done to them. If a guy is working 60 hrs a week its one thing but if not it takes a long time to put 100 hrs on the meter. You could run it 200 hrs a change or do it daily, will run about 5 minutes longer over its life, about 3 to 1 that something else goes wrong before the engine quits especially from oil.
                            Number 1 thing that kills them is sitting around and fuel getting stale.

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                            • #15
                              Sberry makes a good point about fuel. Be most concerned about ethanol. Ethanol fuel is horrible for engines, especially if they sit at all between uses. If you have no other choice than to use ethanol fuels, use marine stabil in it. It at least helps offset some of the negative characteristics of ethanol.
                              Have a great day!

                              John Leisner
                              Product Manager
                              Miller Electric Mfg. Co.

                              Owner and user of:
                              Trailblazer 302 and Legend 301
                              Smith Dual Guard oxy-fuel system
                              Various borrowed Millermatics and Spectrums.

                              Comment

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