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  • dredgewelder
    replied
    Thanks for your advice. i plan on makeing my rack out of aluminum but i am planning on getting in to the anodize welding later. i have a sync 200 but when im ready to do anodized i want to get a dyn 200 so i can do portable. naturally im a pipewelder thats whats ive been doing for quite a while now. And i can promise u i never do a job im not comfortable with. so now im home for a while im gonna hit the aluminum hard until i get a good handle on it before i make anything for myself or someone else thank u guys for ur advice.

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  • HAWK
    replied
    Originally posted by dredgewelder View Post
    Thank you for ur help.i did a search on this topic but with my wife in college and one computer she is always online doing work. i would like to say thank you for your time and advice i have learned alot from you guys happy welding and keep it burning.
    Nobody going to flame throw napalm for not searching such a topic. It has been a couple years since I posted about "bump welding" anodized. I am with Sundown111. I am not being a Smartsassz, but don't want to see a bunch of anodized Al ruined and come to find out this could have been avoided.

    There is a technique employed by a hand full of competent marine fab shops across the countryfor welding anodized Al. It is called 'bump welding" It is not too complicated and a good TIG guy can pick it up in 12-20 hours of practice. It takes attention to detail and making the first arc count. There really are not any second chances in the marine fab business. This statement applies to the ladder rack as well. Passing back over an existing weld only weakens these type of weldments.
    Last edited by HAWK; 04-01-2011, 10:25 AM.

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  • HAWK
    replied
    Originally posted by SundownIII View Post
    dredgewelder,

    Not trying to be a smartazz, but have you ever welded "anodized aluminum"?

    If not, you may want to reevaluate your choice of materials. Anodized aluminum does not "take a bead" like normal aluminum. There is a special process employed to weld it. It's done every day in marine fabrication but not well understood outside that industry.
    I'll jump on this thread. Sundown111 is absolutely correct. If you are planning to "bump weld" the anodized and have experience with it that is great. Otherwise, perhaps a more standard 6061T6 may be more appropriate. You only get one shot at welding anodized as second passes only weakens the weldment significantly. Also grinding the anodized coating before welding defeats the reason for using anodized aluminum. You will need a Sync 250 or a Dynasty 300DX or a machine in the same class to "bump" this material. You might get by with a Sync 200 or a Dynasty 200 for really short time periods of welding. I would not chance it though. As I said you only have one shot at this gig.

    Good Luck
    Last edited by HAWK; 04-01-2011, 12:53 PM.

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  • SundownIII
    replied
    dredgewelder,

    Not trying to be a smartazz, but have you ever welded "anodized aluminum"?

    If not, you may want to reevaluate your choice of materials. Anodized aluminum does not "take a bead" like normal aluminum. There is a special process employed to weld it. It's done every day in marine fabrication but not well understood outside that industry.

    Leave a comment:


  • dredgewelder
    replied
    thanks

    Thank you for ur help.i did a search on this topic but with my wife in college and one computer she is always online doing work. i would like to say thank you for your time and advice i have learned alot from you guys happy welding and keep it burning.

    Leave a comment:


  • Goodhand
    replied
    Since it sounds like you will be using fairly long pieces, I'd think a band saw would be the preferred tool. A table saw with carbide blade goes through smaller pieces like butter, if you just go real slowly. Raise the blade to maximum height, to achieve a "downward" cut to help stabilize the material. And, be sure to hold the aluminum firmly, so it doesn't get caught and thrown by the blade. (Don't ask me how I learned this.)

    Wear eye protection! Those hundreds of tiny aluminum bits are like needles.

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  • SundownIII
    replied
    If you're building a rack for your truck, you should be looking at a notcher and a hole saw.

    Most of the cuts you'll be making will be a fishmouth. The notcher produces the best fit.

    Do you plan to "bump weld" the anodized tube?

    Leave a comment:


  • big mike
    replied
    I have good luck with a jig saw,band saw and table saw.The WD-40 tip is gold too!
    If you use a table saw look for a negative rake carbide blade.

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  • welder_one
    replied
    Originally posted by fabricator View Post
    then the teeth need to be as course as you can get to prevent gumming in the teeth.
    or, just squirt some wd-40 on the blade and cut to your hearts content..... can even use a carbide tipped router bit to cut and shape aluminum..... skil-saw with a min of 40tooth blade, zip discs, band saw, router, table saw.... it really doesnt matter what method ya use, just lube the blade and you will have no problems.....


    what youre prolly fixin to get flamed for is not doing a search on this topic first.... i know there is a thread not more than a couple months old talking about this very same thing.....


    do a lil leg work and the world will fall into place

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  • fabricator
    replied
    A hand held circular saw with a new carbide blade is all you would need. If using a hand held bandsaw then the teeth need to be as course as you can get to prevent gumming in the teeth.
    Last edited by fabricator; 04-01-2011, 05:16 PM. Reason: I had nothing better to do.

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  • aametalmaster
    replied
    If it out of tubing a bandsaw is great but a chop saw works well also. I even cut it on my table saw with a carbide tipped blade...Bob

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  • dredgewelder
    started a topic cutting aluminum

    cutting aluminum

    what is the best for cutting aluminum and anodized aluminum. a dry cut saw or a bandsaw. want to make a ladder rack for my truck out of anodized . thanks for your help.
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