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I have an Miller Syncrowave 300 Ac/Dc TIG whats not vill work Correct!!

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  • I have an Miller Syncrowave 300 Ac/Dc TIG whats not vill work Correct!!

    I have a Miller Syncrowave 300 Ac/Dc Tig not work as it should!
    stick works!
    But not TIG with switch In remote mode! no power then!
    but if change the contactor they will get full power ut then as soon as the stick makes contact with the -ground!!

    Yes!!! I saw a power cord that has connected to it was incorrectly fitted the phase set at zero! so maybe something happened!!

    The relay cr1 its work then i put thw switch to contacor mode,but the relay are not work with the pedal or the button on the handle!!!

    Anybody that have any idea what they might be doing wrong?

  • #2
    I would test the remote - first test replace with a known working one.

    If that is not an option, you can short the remote contact pins. See the service manual to get the pin numbers.

    Leave the power control on 'local'
    Con Fuse!
    Miller Dynasty 350
    Millermatic 350P
    -Spoolmatic 30A

    Hypertherm PowerMax 1000G3
    Miller Multimatic 200 - awesome portable MIG (and stick and TIG)
    Miller Maxstar 200DX - portable TIG and stick


    • #3
      You lost me (for sure) when you said the power cord was incorrectly installed and phase was set to zero.

      Is English a second language?
      Syncrowave 250 DX Tigrunner
      Dynasty 200 DX
      Miller XMT 304 w/714D Feeder & Optima Control
      Miller MM 251 w/Q300 & 30A SG
      Hobart HH187
      Dialarc 250 AC/DC
      Hypertherm PM 600 & 1250
      Wilton 7"x12" bandsaw
      PC Dry Cut Saw, Dewalt Chop Saw
      Milwaukee 8" Metal Cut Saw, Milwaukee Portaband.
      Thermco and Smith (2) Gas Mixers
      More grinders than hands


      • #4
        i speak swedish also..but not so verry good in english!


        • #5
          Är detta er första maskin och gjorde ni komma ihåg att koppla upp TIG och frånkoppling käppen?


          • #6
            Check pins A and B on the remote for switch closing. check C D and E for adjustable resister. Short pins A to B is remote socket. see if relay CR2 closes.
            If CR2 closes but welder does not work. look real close at the relay and see if one of the wires inside is broken. If the current control is set in panel and set to max you will have max output when ever contactor switch is closed.
            Made sure the foot control and panel switches are all working and the cr2 relay.
            Then we will look deeper in the welder. Post back with the serial number so I came use the correct diagram to help you with.
            Glenn 300 amp stick
            Millermatic 35
            L-tec plasma


            • #7
              Serial number are HH048653
              I have check this cr2 relay and this are closing! To moore chance they work i have test with an new one also i got !! But the welder won`t start to weld with the button on the handle!
              I have test pedal and to bridge the 2 pin on remote also!!


              • #8
                i Have test with an New CR1 Relay today,but they are the same,they vill not Close with Remote,Only in Contacor settings!
                Can thet was T2 the Transfomator 36 volts that are Damaged that?s are driving the realay!


                • #9
                  You still haven't stated if you have tried to trigger the machine jumping across A and B with the remote unplugged? Have you tried that in tig mode to see if the contactor closes. that's the first test you need to do.
                  Last edited by 1997CST; 03-19-2014, 07:18 AM.


                  • #10
                    If you mean to jump the two line in the Cable to Remote? I have do that.But Relay will not Close,only then i Switch the buttom in Contacor setting! not in the Remote at all!


                    • #11
                      No. Not in the remote. Do the following steps

                      1. Unplug the remote
                      2. Put the machine in tig mode
                      3. On the front of the machine in the 5 pin plug, jump pins A and B
                      4. Does the contactor close?
                      5. If yes, your problem is in the remote cable
                      6. If not could be PC1
                      Last edited by 1997CST; 04-10-2014, 07:33 AM.


                      • #12

                        1.I Have try to jump the Remote and The Contacor Vill not close!

                        2.i have an other Same Welder and i tried The PC1 Card From them and the Contactor vill not close even with that Card!


                        • #13
                          NO, he's saying bypass the remote ALL TOGETHER and with a paper clip jumper A & B on the 5 pin (or 14) on the machine itself