Sheet Metal Adhesive?

[atc250r]

I got a call from a local business as they are wanting to renovate their kitchen/coffee room. They want a polished stainless steel backsplash, which I can provide them, no problemo there, but I am having trouble finding an adhesive to attach it to the wall. Thinking of using about 20ga material. Awhile back I tried something from the lumber yard that was intended for metal studs, but it didn't really work well for sheet metal. Screws are outta the question for aesthetic reasons. Any ideas out there?

[1havnfun]

3M makes a contact adhesive that works really good metal to wood. 1300L is the number.
I buy the stuff from McMaster-Carr. I use it for metal to rubber for aerospace applications. not that expensive though.

It got the blessings of the engineers because it won't let go.

Good luck

[aametalmaster]

Pure silcone works well also...Bob

[umahunter]

hmm

i would also suggest the contact cement 2 things make sure the wall is as smooth as you can get it and has atleast a primed surface lilke oil based kills or zinser dont go over unprimed drywall mud and second go to the hardware store and get a laminete roller http://www.google.com/products/catal...ed=0CGwQ8wIwAQ or even better http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...2k3C5SBQpS184w have everything ready when ya put it in place cause once those the 2 glued sections meet theres no going back then roll it and your good

[welder_one]

when i worked at the sign shop, we would sometimes get the specs for sheeting to not be welded to the framing or couldnt because of the lamination scotchlite... 3m makes a 2 part glue (i'll find the part number in a min) once the glue was applied and allowed cure time, i tried to pull 2 peices of 6061 square tube apart with a big truck n forklift (yeah, i live in arkansas, "hold my beer n watch this ya'll") it held to the point that it actually ripped the side outta the tubing.... it was 3x3 1/4 wall tubing... now to find the stuff...


http://www.shop3m.com/62264512328.ht...thane-Adhesive



i had no idea that it was that expensive, but it really works

[umahunter]

hmm

whew doggie that stuff is pricey dont get it on your hands or anything else ya dont want permanently stuck

[aametalmaster]

(yeah, i live in arkansas, "hold my beer n watch this ya'll") it held to the point that it actually ripped the side outta the tubing...

Now that's funny ...Bob

[MMW]

When you install it have the bottom supported from dropping straight down. This way the glue only holds it from tipping forward & does not have to support the weight of it. The adhesive might hold it to the paper on the drywall fine but I've seen the paper tear away from the drywall with heavy objects like mirrors, etc.

[engnerdan]

Make sure the back is not polished and just use a construction adhesive from the local home shop. That stuff is so strong you will pull chunks of sheet rock out before the glue breaks. Plus it is cheap, and I know that they have one for metal but I don't have any right now to be able to tell you what it is.

-Dan

[atc250r]

Make sure the back is not polished and just use a construction adhesive from the local home shop. That stuff is so strong you will pull chunks of sheet rock out before the glue breaks. Plus it is cheap, and I know that they have one for metal but I don't have any right now to be able to tell you what it is.

-Dan

The back won't be polished, just standard #2 dull finish, although very smooth. The last stuff I used was for metal studs but wouldn't adhere well to the smooth surface of the sheet metal.

Some other good suggestions there, though. Thanks

[con_fuse9]

That 3M scotch weld price was for a case (yeah, still not cheap) and it would require a special gun to squirt it out. Need to factor that into the costs.

Another alternative is the auto body supply places. They glue mirrors on all the time.

I have a little bit of 2-part urathane for gluing thngs on car bumpers etc. I can say that the fumes are unique. Ask about what kind of mask to use before you buy.

[nfinch86]

The back won't be polished, just standard #2 dull finish, although very smooth. The last stuff I used was for metal studs but wouldn't adhere well to the smooth surface of the sheet metal.

Some other good suggestions there, though. Thanks

Just scuff the back with some fine sandpaper before trying any adhesive !

........... Norm

[JSFAB]

Every major manufacturer of industrial consumables to my knowledge has a website, and phone numbers. Look for the applicable phone number (engineering, applications?), call them. They pay people to answer your phone calls, they will give you specific product recommendations, application methods, pre-treat necessary, etc. etc. You need to be specific and complete as to what you plan to do, mention any environmental factors (food grade, high heat, humidity, etc. ) that exist.

They should also tell you what dealers exist in your area.

I would consult with several manufacturers, pick the one you feel most comfortable with. A little research here, can save you mucho warranty work later.

[Mr. R]

I've done SS wall renovations in restraunts and liquid nail has always worked fine. Applied to sheetrock or tile. Silicone takes to long to set but works well on the joint trim cause the pieces are lighter and it's clear in case you put too much on and it oozes out. Good luck!

[Pass-N-Gas]

Break the back splash piece 180, Screw an offset supporting piece to the wall and push the back splash down over it, caulk to seal..