Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Syncrowave 250-No remote amperage control

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • jjohn76
    replied
    Originally posted by marglo View Post
    I have a syncrowave 350 (KA 828057) with the same problem, "no remote amperage control". I tried 2 different rfcs-14hd and same issue. Using the schematic inside the machine, I took wire # 110 to my ohm meter thru to wire #106 at the PC board and have 1K ohms with the petal up and 0 Ohms with the petal down. That's with the rfcs-14hd hooked up and switch on the machine set to "remote",...so I think it's a board problem. Where can I find a good schematic of the board and the location of the op-amp and it's part number ???
    Any help would be appreciated !!
    Marty
    Marty, also, is the Syncrowave 350 running full hot or no heat at all when you press the pedal? If it's full hot, check to make sure socket D is connected to ground. If it's always cold, check to make sure your lead 106 has good contact to connect ion RC52-12.

    Leave a comment:


  • jjohn76
    replied
    Originally posted by marglo View Post
    I have a syncrowave 350 (KA 828057) with the same problem, "no remote amperage control". I tried 2 different rfcs-14hd and same issue. Using the schematic inside the machine, I took wire # 110 to my ohm meter thru to wire #106 at the PC board and have 1K ohms with the petal up and 0 Ohms with the petal down. That's with the rfcs-14hd hooked up and switch on the machine set to "remote",...so I think it's a board problem. Where can I find a good schematic of the board and the location of the op-amp and it's part number ???
    Any help would be appreciated !!
    Marty
    Marty, does your panel amperage work? If so, then I would recommend you first check to make sure you have voltage across sockets C and D on your remote. Tha will tell us which way to go.
    Jon

    Leave a comment:


  • Iggnator
    replied
    Originally posted by marglo View Post
    I have a syncrowave 350 (KA 828057) with the same problem, "no remote amperage control". I tried 2 different rfcs-14hd and same issue. Using the schematic inside the machine, I took wire # 110 to my ohm meter thru to wire #106 at the PC board and have 1K ohms with the petal up and 0 Ohms with the petal down. That's with the rfcs-14hd hooked up and switch on the machine set to "remote",...so I think it's a board problem. Where can I find a good schematic of the board and the location of the op-amp and it's part number ???
    Any help would be appreciated !!
    Marty
    I know this is an old thread, but Marglo resurrected it last month.
    You have to buy the technical manual from Miller. I have a Syncrowave 250, I recall I paid $80 via the dealer (25 years ago). The down side, it has the board schematic, but no component values. You have to manually read them off the board components and write them on the schematic. The board did fail in my power supply. I removed all the ICs, and installed sockets and new components. A pain to desolder them as they use some sort of varnish for conformal coating. Only problem is that Miller used crappy parts that required potentiometer test alignment, so my current is way off from the dial. I just never took the time to power it up on a bench and figure out how to calibrate it. I ended up buying a new board. I see the cost is $1200 today.
    I hope it's still true you can get the technical manual for their products today, and not be a factory authorized tech.

    Leave a comment:


  • marglo
    replied
    I have a syncrowave 350 (KA 828057) with the same problem, "no remote amperage control". I tried 2 different rfcs-14hd and same issue. Using the schematic inside the machine, I took wire # 110 to my ohm meter thru to wire #106 at the PC board and have 1K ohms with the petal up and 0 Ohms with the petal down. That's with the rfcs-14hd hooked up and switch on the machine set to "remote",...so I think it's a board problem. Where can I find a good schematic of the board and the location of the op-amp and it's part number ???
    Any help would be appreciated !!
    Marty

    Leave a comment:


  • nitrobandit1
    replied
    I have a snyc 350 that just started acting up with the pedal not working. im sure as most would guess, its the most likely suspect, since it gets drop
    kicked and stuff set on the cord all the time. I took my time and did some research that led me here, and after ohming out the pedal and wiring, found
    that 300 bucks I would have spent would have been for nothing. cruiser nailed it right on the head. the moldex 5 pin connector had insufficient solder
    to connect the connector pins to the circuit board that goes to the pin out connector. funny enough, I did have the 24v and 10 signals at the pedal, but not
    enough connection to make it work. thanks cruiser, and everybody else that helped point me in the right direction. it works fine now.

    Leave a comment:


  • welder_one
    replied
    congratulations.... and best of luck fighting the learning curve of the art of TIG

    Leave a comment:


  • 70Chevelle
    replied
    I FIXED IT!!!!!

    As it turns out, it was the A4 IC(op-amp). I replaced the Q13 transistor first, still didn't work. Newark sent me the wrong op-amp, so I just got the correct one today and popped it in and I magically have amperage control via the pedal now!

    The total parts cost= $1.99 (plus $6 s&h). So it cost me $8 to fix it myself. I don't want to know what it would have cost me to send it out...

    Now its time to teach myself how to TIG!

    Thanks for the help guys!!

    Leave a comment:


  • 70Chevelle
    replied
    D to ground is about 4 ohms, E to BB is about 2 ohms. The welder still has a shunt.

    Leave a comment:


  • ccawgc
    replied
    Try this. The control voltage in remote enters the pcb at BH comes back out
    at BJ goes to pin C comes out of remote pin E. Goes to remote switch and then to BB. You should be able to see the panel preset voltage at C and D.
    you must have 0-10 volts on C & D for the remote to work.
    D to ground should be 0 ohms. There is a filter on this wire. (PC2)
    E to BB in remote should be 0 ohms. Switch in remote.
    Does your welder still have the shunt or has it been up graded to a LEM?
    This will tell us which pc board is in your welder.
    The pcb used with the shunt is no longer available. They are replaced by a new pcb and the shunt is changed to a LEM. The shunt is a steel flat bar on red insulators next to the fan. That said, it is very common for the remote switch to fail. In these older units. They need to be moved once and a while to stay working.

    Leave a comment:


  • 70Chevelle
    replied
    cruizer- Do you have any tech documents showing points where I can measure voltages to check? I found a similar document a few days ago online, but I forgot to bookmark it and I can't find it again. I talked to a repair shop who has 21 welders waiting in line for repair, and I guess they are not in any hurry to get them done, so I may need to figure this one out myself. Or travel to find someone that has the time to work on it...

    Leave a comment:


  • cruizer
    replied
    Originally posted by H80N View Post
    Cruizer...
    not sure I catch your drift... but the serial number will get you the owners manual for your machine... here is a quote from the Manual PDF download page..

    "You must enter your model and serial number to view the correct Owner's Manual for your unit. If you leave the serial number field blank, you will get the Owner's Manual for the model currently being manufactured
    (if available)."

    here is the link..

    http://www.millerwelds.com/service/o...uals.php?model

    The catch is that I have ALL the diagrams & all the machines being a Miller tech and all, for the super secret tech only site.

    The owners manuals on this site do not and are missing quite alot.

    Leave a comment:


  • H80N
    replied
    Cruizer...
    not sure I catch your drift... but the serial number will get you the owners manual for your machine... here is a quote from the Manual PDF download page..

    "You must enter your model and serial number to view the correct Owner's Manual for your unit. If you leave the serial number field blank, you will get the Owner's Manual for the model currently being manufactured
    (if available)."

    here is the link..

    http://www.millerwelds.com/service/o...uals.php?model

    Leave a comment:


  • cruizer
    replied
    Originally posted by H80N View Post
    the online manual needs to be keyed to your serial number.... otherwise it will default to the newest version of the manual..........
    Not really, the tech manuals have the diagrams for the individual machines. The owners manuals on this site do not and they are missing some machines as well.

    Leave a comment:


  • H80N
    replied
    online manual.........

    the online manual needs to be keyed to your serial number.... otherwise it will default to the newest version of the manual..........

    Leave a comment:


  • 70Chevelle
    replied
    When I press the pedal from min to max I get 0-7.34volts on the BB terminal. This is not affected by changing the amperage on the panel.

    If I switch to "panel" from remote, on the BB terminal I get 0-10 volts when I adjust the amperage from 4-310.

    The online manual is a little different from the one I have, slightly newer model I think. Mine doesn't seem to have those fuses anywhere.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X