Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Finally purchased my Dynasty 200DX

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Finally purchased my Dynasty 200DX

    Hello everyone, Finally after looking at one for over a year I finally saved up and brought mine home friday, tigrunner with the coolmate 1

    Now that i have it all setup in my shop I have a few questions, first off being the sequencer function. Every time I tried to change the menu it displays HEL P12. I read the manual and the users guide off millers site and that code is for improper setup??

    I read an article linked from this forum about pulsed tig to help understand the 3 parameters of adjusting the pulse controller which i have a good understanding of and today i played around on some 1018 mild steel.

    Also I've noticed a few people running this machine on 3 phase and with coolmate 3's. Im running off 240v single phase, is there a major increase in switching to 3 phase or using a larger water cooler?

    I have a few more questions but il get to those later on..

    Thanks!!

  • #2

    Comment


    • #3
      Hi Patrick,
      I'm running my 200dx with a Coolmate 3 because my friend at the LWS said the Coolmate 1 wouldn't keep up in hot weather doing alot of thick aluminum. I haven't used the Coolmate 1 but I can tell you that the Coolmate 3 has had no problem cooling the torch under any conditions I've thrown at it.
      As far as voltage, I am using an MVP cable so I have used my Dynasty with 120V and 240V, single phase, back to back on the same piece and it's worked great with both voltages. Although I haven't tried to weld anything heavy with 120V.
      I haven't tried 3 phase because the machine runs great on 120/240V single phase.
      Mike
      Miller Dynasty 200DX TIG
      Miller Coolmate 3
      Miller LMSW-52 Spotwelder - (Still Going Strong )
      Lincoln Sp-175 Plus MIG
      Miller Digital Elite Helmet
      Miller Elite Helmet
      Speedglas 9100xx w/ADFLO Helmet

      Comment


      • #4
        Make sure the welder out put is turned off. Both foot control and panel.
        All key presses must be in the correct sequence. Follow the steps in the owners manual. Get into the program set mode first. Then set the values as you step through the senquence.
        Glenn 300 amp stick
        Millermatic 35
        L-tec plasma

        Comment


        • #5
          thanks guys, I do most of my work in my shop which has AC so i dont think the coolmate 1 will have any problems overheating..

          On another note i did some stainless tonight and was not impressed with the results, i set it at 110 amps with 80% on and 60% background and 8 PPS but i dont have a gas lense yet (ordered) and i didnt purge the part. I need some recommendations on how to set up to weld stainless pipe as I will be constructing a stainless manifold for my project car

          the welds just don't seem to shine at all and I need the roll of dimes look which this just isnt producing

          Comment


          • #6
            The Dynasty is a good machine, but I think you are stretching it's abilities a bit. Most of a good weld, similar to the one you describe, is in the operator and not the machine. Even if you are skilled in tig welding, there is going to be a learning curve with a new machine. Practice, practice, practice. If you still have problems, post pics. A lot of people on here do this for a living with the same equipment you have.
            Sometimes there's no second chances.

            Comment


            • #7
              There will be some discoloration when welding stainless tube, usually gold to brown, if its too shiny it means to me that it isnt getting 100% penetration.

              I use a ss wire brush while the metal is still hot to very warm to clean off the tarnish or the 3M 2SFN 6 or 8 inch wheel on an angle grinder to clean it up.

              Most all of my welding was purge welded (dairy tubing) and color was an indicator, too shiny meant not much penetration, too dark meant I am too hot.
              I never used a water cooler as most of my welding was 100 amps or less, and an aircooled torch worked fine for me. The heavier stuff I have a WP26 200 amp air cooled torch.

              Portable in plant work was much simpler for me with an air cooled setup.

              It takes a fair amount of practice to get the looks and penetration down as said in one of the posts above.
              mike sr

              Comment


              • #8
                PatrickW,

                Hate to be the one to break the bad news but,

                It's not the machine that's producing unsatisfactory welds. It's the guy holding the torch.
                Syncrowave 250 DX Tigrunner
                Dynasty 200 DX
                Miller XMT 304 w/714D Feeder & Optima Control
                Miller MM 251 w/Q300 & 30A SG
                Hobart HH187
                Dialarc 250 AC/DC
                Hypertherm PM 600 & 1250
                Wilton 7"x12" bandsaw
                PC Dry Cut Saw, Dewalt Chop Saw
                Milwaukee 8" Metal Cut Saw, Milwaukee Portaband.
                Thermco and Smith (2) Gas Mixers
                More grinders than hands

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by PatrickW View Post
                  thanks guys, I do most of my work in my shop which has AC so i dont think the coolmate 1 will have any problems overheating..

                  On another note i did some stainless tonight and was not impressed with the results, i set it at 110 amps with 80% on and 60% background and 8 PPS but i dont have a gas lense yet (ordered) and i didnt purge the part. I need some recommendations on how to set up to weld stainless pipe as I will be constructing a stainless manifold for my project car

                  the welds just don't seem to shine at all and I need the roll of dimes look which this just isnt producing
                  I am sure many folks will be willing to help you learn how to get the most from your machine.
                  As far as your settings....we cannot even imagine if they are close for doing anything unless you tell us what it is you are welding. Things like type of material, thickness, joint design and even the size. And of course as mentioned pics would help.
                  I would suggest you play with plain old steel for awhile before you waste too much money and material on stainless learning.

                  www.facebook.com/outbackaluminumwelding
                  Miller Dynasty 700...OH YEA BABY!!
                  MM 350P...PULSE SPRAYIN' MONSTER
                  Miller Dynasty 280 with AC independent expansion card
                  Miller Dynasty 200 DX "Blue Lightning"

                  Miller Bobcat 225 NT (what I began my present Biz with!)
                  Miller 30-A Spoolgun
                  Miller WC-115-A
                  Miller Spectrum 300
                  Miller 225 Thunderbolt (my first machine bought new 1980)
                  Miller Digital Elite Titanium 9400

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by PatrickW View Post
                    thanks guys, I do most of my work in my shop which has AC so i dont think the coolmate 1 will have any problems overheating..

                    On another note i did some stainless tonight and was not impressed with the results, i set it at 110 amps with 80% on and 60% background and 8 PPS but i dont have a gas lense yet (ordered) and i didnt purge the part. I need some recommendations on how to set up to weld stainless pipe as I will be constructing a stainless manifold for my project car

                    the welds just don't seem to shine at all and I need the roll of dimes look which this just isnt producing

                    How thick was the stainless?

                    On 1/8 stainless I think I was using 75% on, 25 amps background and 1.3 pps to time dipping the rod (because I could).

                    -Dan
                    Owner
                    DW Metalworks LLC
                    Miller Trailblazer 302
                    Miller 8RC Feeder
                    Miller Passport Plus
                    Miller Dynasty 200 DX W/Coolmate 1
                    Hobart Handler 135
                    Hypertherm PowerMAX 30
                    Smith O/A Torch Set
                    Plus more tools then my wife will ever know about....

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      If you had someone to show you how it would really help you out, pics of the problem would help too.

                      I was fortunate that I had a pipe fitter welder show me how it was done over a period of time.

                      I do admire the fact that you ask for help, I have run across a few guys that think they know it all and there is no room for improvemnet at that point.

                      The gas lens will help on stainless, I use one one everything, the gas coverage is much better in most cases.

                      You have a nice machine thats for sure, I used a scratch start inverter until I retired, those expensive machines have a way of disappearing off a jobsite.
                      mike sr

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I've read a few articles on pulse welding and a few of the things off miller's site.. i think im getting it way too hot and using too much amperage.

                        Keep in mind i am use to using my maxstar 140 which had a manual gas valve and no amp adjustment while welding so this is a huge improvement.

                        Tuesday il order a gas lense and really put some time in practicing and playing with the pulser some more.. thanks guys!

                        Comment

                        Working...
                        X