Question about brand of mig wire

[monte55]

I bought my Miller 252 a while back and have not welded with it much. I'm still not
quite use to having a voltage adjustment as opposed to taps. I was welding
some 3/16" steel plate yesterday and was not happy with the results. I won't get into settings now but was wondering if anyone has used this wire and their comments of it.
.035 National Std. Co.
ASME SFA 5.18
ER70S-6
Standard-Arc (TM) 6.

Problems...didn't wet out well...excessive splatter. The metal was rusted but I cleaned the rust off with 24 grit pad but it still had some small rust pits in the metal. I did no other cleaning.
Nick

[crawler]

Try that wire in the MM 150 and see how it works.

[diamondback]

you will typically have to run a slightly higher voltage on that wire to reduce your spatter. It may also be associated to the gas your running.

[PTsideshow]

My understanding is most of the wire is coming out of the same factory in Italy, with some out of Mexico and occasionally China.
I just used a a half spool 11 pounder of one brand of that wire ER70S-6, most went well but in a couple of sections it seemed to do what you are saying splatter, splatter everywhere. When that went empty.
I had another half 11 pounder, That was slightly rusted. Spooled off about 3 pounds to get to good clean bright wire. Again it did the same thing in one or two spots.
I was thinking that it was my shoddy skills at doing vertical and out of position welding. Being a hobbyist, occasional welder. but it might have something to do with the way the wire is made or put on the spool?
I bought another spool 11 pounder at HF to have some on hand. It to was made in Italy, now that 3 spools of wire that span about ten years in length and two of them acted the same, the only other thing is if you moved the ground clamp as I did one time and only hit it with a lick and a pray. it did sort the same thing sputter an splatter. All were ER70S-6 with the 75/25 on my old Linc 100

[monte55]

I don't know where the wire was made but the label was printed in the USA.
I'm using 75/25. I tried some other metal, not rusted, and things went better.
I found I was looking at the wrong chart for settings on the first piece. I'm still not real happy with the weld.......it seems to hump more than I would like for the thickness but that's probably me. It's a 45lb spool that came with the welder and I'm not going to trash it. It is coated wire btw. Like I said before I'm not use to having adjustable voltage and need to learn how much voltage
change affects the weld.
Nick

[BoxCar]

hey sorry your having trouble I use 0.35 wire at work all the time and I find it does tend to do that at times, but for me sounds like you were needing some more heat to smooth out the weld so its not so humpy.

[davedarragh]

252 Woes.

I don't know where the wire was made but the label was printed in the USA. I'm not use to having adjustable voltage and need to learn how much voltage
change affects the weld.
Nick

Nick: Voltage controls height and width of the weld bead, Wire Speed (Amperage) controls weld penetration (wire speed = burn-off rate).

Though all electrodes have to meet AWS Specifications, like everything else, some are better than others. I particularly favor Lincoln Super-Arc L-56 solid MIG wire. Hobart wire and electrodes are also, very good.

Basically, we get what we pay for. I've tried some "off brand" wires (e.g. Weldcote) and there is a difference the way it feeds and welds.

www.weldingsupply.com has a huge inventory of Lincoln consumables.

www.cyberweld.com has Hobart rods and wire

www.ramweldingsupply.com sells Lincoln wire, as well

Nick, have you got an .045 liner in your MIG gun? That's got charts for .045 wire, doesn't it?

Dave

[Desertrider33]

I rarely have a problem from any brand of solid mig wire. Fluxcore is a different story. Provided the wire is not rusty and the machine is properly set up to feed the wire, most likely the wire is fine and the problem is volt/wire speed settings and/or welding technique and/or base metal preperation.

If the bead is too tall/narrow and/or has cold toes, overfill or overlapped toes, there are a few remedies.

-Decrease the wire speed and/or increase the voltage.
-Decrease the stickout length, which increases the voltage.
-Increase the torch angle from vertical (lay it down more), which flattens the bead.
-Push rather than drag the torch. Pushing widens and flattens the bead while decreasing the penetration.
-Increase the travel speed. Traveling too slow overfills the weld and overlaps the toes.
-Decrease the travel speed. Traveling too fast doesn't allow the bead to fuse, penetrate and wet in.

[monte55]

Thanks all for the replies
Nick

[stugots]

hi monte, try this, set your 252 as per chart, and turn the volts knob as you weld and tune the unit in by the sound of the arc, you want that really consistent fast buzzing sound. you will know it when you hit that sweet spot.

[Ls2cam]

Same thing to me. I did not know much on my new 252, require some adjustable setting-volts and feed speed things. I try on my best to learn.
I try follow-up this post.

[big mike]

National-Standard wire is drawn in either Niles Michigan or Stillwater Oklahoma.