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  • bert the welder
    replied
    Originally posted by JSFAB View Post
    Bert, you can probably "stick" the half-inch round to another, for sculpture purposes, with the Diversion. The only problem is, it can't give you enough heat, right now, to get a puddle started. Thus, you may run into problems with overheating the work, since it takes longer to get going, and you'll have to move slower, putting more total heat into the work. This can lead to problems with warpage. It seems you are not too concerned with this, but you may also have problems getting a complete weld down to the bottom of the "V" between the side of the round stock and a square-cut edge.
    Thanks JS, that's the kind of info I need. Didn't know about the overheating and warping you mentioned.
    I now next to nothing about the technical stuff with TIG. And, yes, the "V" at the side is going to be problematic. MIG just fills it. Not so with TIG. I'm glad you at least know what I'm talking about, joint wise. . Thanks for the help.
    Spoke with a guy today that has a Linc. PT225 and he loves it and think it will be good for what I'm doing but may need some preheat to get a good weld on the 1/2 to 1/2" alum. bar. Fair enough.
    Thanks again,
    Bert

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  • JSFAB
    replied
    Bert, you can probably "stick" the half-inch round to another, for sculpture purposes, with the Diversion. The only problem is, it can't give you enough heat, right now, to get a puddle started. Thus, you may run into problems with overheating the work, since it takes longer to get going, and you'll have to move slower, putting more total heat into the work. This can lead to problems with warpage. It seems you are not too concerned with this, but you may also have problems getting a complete weld down to the bottom of the "V" between the side of the round stock and a square-cut edge.

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  • davedarragh
    replied
    Originally posted by Bodybagger View Post
    Or oxyacetylene. On second thought, nobody wants to learn the old way.
    How True

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  • bert the welder
    replied
    I've got MIG. And I realize that fit is a big factor in TIG welding. Just throwing out the questions to help figure out what machine to get. I'd like a TIG for certain things I build. It would be a better process. I'm asking more about material thickness ability, given that I'm looking not to weld 1/2" in one pass, but weld one rod to another. So, for the sake of argument, lets say I grind the end of a 1/2 rod to fit nice against the side of another 1/2 steel rod. Can the joint be welded with 50amps, 100amps, 200amps? I don't think duty cycle is too much of a concern, as I'm not doing long welds. If any sculptors, or any welder for that matter are out there and have a TIG and could try this joint, no matter what machine you have, and let me know what amps it took to get a good, but not necessarily ship building strong, weld. I would be hugely grateful!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!
    Bert

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  • Bodybagger
    replied
    Or oxyacetylene. On second thought, nobody wants to learn the old way.

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  • Kamikaze
    replied
    It can be done but the thing I have problem with is not doing proper and tight fit-up before welding! Especially using a TIG!

    TIG is a low filler deposition method and needs to have a nice clean fit-up before welding. Especially Aluminum!

    On the aluminum side of the parts, 1/2" is pushing it with the Diversion 165 but it can be done with a few tricks! Proper Fit-up is one and pre heating is another but there is one other thing and I would suggest you look at the Diversion 180 when it comes out or move towards a used Synchrowave if you are on a tight budget!

    From what you described, I see MIG as a better and faster alternative for you.

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  • bert the welder
    replied
    Originally posted by chewinggum View Post
    I have a Diversion, and certainly think I could make those joints. I've done similar.

    CG
    How similar is similar, and steel and alum? Just want to be sure.
    I wish the LWS would demo machines! They could still sell them at cost when new models come out. Probably get more sales and make up the loss no problem. Maybe I'm missing something here.
    Thanks for the help,
    Bert

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  • chewinggum
    replied
    I have a Diversion, and certainly think I could make those joints. I've done similar.

    CG

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  • FusionKing
    replied
    1/2" round bar in a "T" joint???
    There is no real mass there.
    If it couldn't weld that I would think that my machine was malfunctioning.

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  • kcstott
    replied
    It'll do it with steel but a no go on the 1/2 aluminum. 1/4 a big maybe depending on how long the round stock is but in any case 1/4 aluminum is going to be a tough time. 1/8 no problem.

    The company I use to work for had an Econo tig 145 amp version and it would just barley weld 1/4 plate aluminum but very small pieces like less then a few square inches. An econo tig is a very similar machine to the diversion in terms of capacity

    For your application Tig would be my first choice but a bigger machine would be needed for the 1/4 and 1/2" stuff.

    You may look at a Millermatic 211 and use a spool gun for the 1/2 inch. It won't look pretty but hey it's art

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  • bert the welder
    started a topic First post, bit of a doozy

    First post, bit of a doozy

    I don't no anyone around here with a Diversion 165 so I thought I'd throw this out there if anyone has the time/interest/scrap. Could someone with a 165 try some welds for me. I'd be interested if the Diversion can weld:
    1/2" round bar to 1/2" round bar, in a "T" butt joint. Ends just cut square, nothing fitted.
    1/4" round bar the 1/2" round bar , same joint as above, same prep.
    1/8" flat bar to the side of a piece of 1/2" round bar. same as above joint and prep.

    I'd like to see if all of the above welds are possible on both Alum. and Steel. I'm not looking for shipyard strength. Just enough to hold it together well, like for a sculpture. I'm thinking, in my inexperienced in TIG mind, that the steel will be possible. But I'm wondering if the 1/2" Alum. is going to be sucking too much heat away. Not looking to weld lots of inches at a time, just around the diameter of the 1/2" round to the side of another 1/2" round, for example.
    I can theorize all I want, but if someone could put the pedal to the metal( har har har) I'd be very grateful. You be answering the big questions for me in deciding on buying one. Just don't want to get it home and find out" Oh $hit"
    Maybe some fellow artists on here are doing exactly this kind of "not the usual" kind of welding. I hope my description makes sense. If not , I can always do a doodle for you.
    Super big thanks to all that can help.
    I know a Sync 200 would be a good choice but for the $ difference I can get other tools I need!!!!
    Regards,
    Bert
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