Radnor Helmet Question

[jbmprods]

i know makes models and all has been discussed many times but i can't find particulars on the one i am thinking of buying. Does anyone have experience with the Radnor 54VI Select auto dark. I'm looking at buying it from our local air gas dealer for $270. it has i believe a 4.5 by 3.5 window (which would be great for my bi-focals) with 4 sensors and solar powered with no on off switch to deal with. external control knobs. I have no experience with Radnor hoods at all. Any input would be greatly welcomed. thanks.

[GTA/SPEC]

If you absolutly need an ADF, Save you money for a Jackson. You only have one pair of eyes.

Radnors are Chinese. Millers are South Korean. Jackson is made in the USA.

[con_fuse9]

I'm looking for a second helmet myself.

Choices between Miller and Optrel. Both will run about $300 depending on where I buy it and precisely which model.

I will say, that with autodark helmets the window size is less important. On the passive helmets, you need to flip down the helmet, and then in total darkness, hope everything lines up when you strike the arc. With the auto-dark you line things up in advance, makes it easy.

And quite frankly, there isn't really that much you can see.

So...
Miller Elite - good helmet but sometimes goes dark at funny times when outdoors.
Miller Digital Elite - has magnetic sensor so should be better outdoors, but big negative for me is the manual on. I'm the guy that leaves gas bottles open all the time, you think I'll remember turning on the helmet? yeah, me nether.
Miller Titanium - not sure how they fit in but they have one model that has a big view and a flip up visor. I can't remember the last time I burned rod but if I did it every day that might be a deciding factor.
Optrel - Reputation for good color (not just green) and external controls (just remember which way to turn the knob) - on the negative, slightly smaller window, a bit tougher to find parts (that's what the internet is for).

Optrel and Miller Digital Elite have a cut mode with shade somewhere around 5. Right now I switch to a 'face mask'. Would be nice to use the same helmet, especially if its just a flick of the switch.

List price on the higher end stuff is about $400. Ebay pricing $240 + Internet pricing is competitive with Ebay. My LWS is about $75 more than Ebay. B&R seems to have a decent price on Optrel's.

There are a couple of auctions on Ebay for Miller Digital - note there is a difference between "Digital" and "Digital Elite" and the sellers sometimes get mixed up.

[GTA/SPEC]

con_fuse9 -

Miller Digital Elite - has magnetic sensor so should be better outdoors

magnetic sensor? Can you tell me more about this magnetic sensor and its benefit to welding outdoors?

[jew144]

I purchased this helmet about a month ago and like it very much. The large viewing window is very nice for tig.

[nocheepgas]

con_fuse9 -



magnetic sensor? Can you tell me more about this magnetic sensor and its benefit to welding outdoors?

It doesn't respond to the light, it responds to the arc, thereby eliminating going dark when you are getting ready to do an overhead outdoors.

[nfinch86]

Jackson EQC. ??

If you absolutly need an ADF, Save you money for a Jackson. You only have one pair of eyes.

Radnors are Chinese. Millers are South Korean. Jackson is made in the USA.

I saw locally on the net a Jackson EQC. for $50. , Is it a good deal ?
I know very little about them .
I'm using a Miller performance now .

.......... Norm

[con_fuse9]

con_fuse9 -
magnetic sensor? Can you tell me more about this magnetic sensor and its benefit to welding outdoors?

X-Mode - Variable Shade #8 - 13
* Electromagnetic Arc Sensing eliminates: Sunlight interference - Outdoors, Low-Amperage Lens Opening - TIG, Lens Openings - Pipe/Curves, Obstructed Sensors - Hidden/Cavity Welds

Assuming its like my old helmet - when you do TIG with HF start, the HF is enough to trigger the helmet - basically you get no flash at all. One issue with Miller is this extra protection is only available in 'X-Mode' and is normally not the mode you weld with. There are pluses and minuses to that (IMHO).

I would think there are times when you want X-mode to work and some times when you don't. In the case of Miller, you must select it manually.
I guess if your in a tight spot and get flashed, you take the helmet off and select X-mode and put the helmet back on. (Assuming you can still read the mode screen )

[GTA/SPEC]

Thanks con_fuse9. Learn something every day.