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millermatic 200 drive motor problem

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  • TerryR
    replied
    Millermatic 200 - anybody still looking at this?

    I had a similiar problem but my motor was just doing a little jerking and not always real smooth at lower speeds especially. It turns out the problem was not anything do do with the motor. The potentiometer you turn to adjust the speed was apparently dirty or bad- not sure which, but replaced it with a radio shack new one with the same resistance and wham $12.92 the problem was fixed. Check for dead spots or totally bad adjustment pot. There is a circuit board someplace too, but I think they are EXPENSIVE.

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  • mudman
    replied
    I have the motor apart and checked both the armature and the field for continuity and for short. I also checked where the leads have crimp connections and also visually inspected wires to see if anything looked amiss.

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  • cruizer
    replied
    What are you talking about, this unit has field AND armature windings. So your not going to get ANYTHING off the brush holders to any other wire

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  • mudman
    replied
    I checked the motor out, it has no continuity in the fields on either side, seems strange that both sides could have burned out at the same time. It doesn't have any shorts to ground. Could excessive drag in the gun liner cause the motor to burn out? I am going to change that liner any way just for good measure?

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  • con_fuse9
    replied
    Originally posted by SunGuy View Post
    I wish I live in your neck of the woods. $1300 for a 252, I would be all over it. $1400 for a 251 sold within hours in my neck of the woods. Seems like everything in SF Bay Area is overpriced!!!
    Sorry to hijack.

    Prices have been up and down. One guy in NJ was willing to sell me a Dynasty 200DX for $1250 - but my wife started loading the gun so I passed.

    I occasionally do a nationwide search for some specific items I need. In California I see lots of stuff south of you (LA), plus Las Vegas had some interesting sales. Florida also looks to be a good place for some better equipment. I drove 250miles one way for the deal on the 350P.

    The good news is the asking prices have been going up and the number of newer welders has been going down. I hope that is a good trend for the economy as a whole, people working more, selling off newish, good equipment less.

    Heh, I've seen people asking $2000+ for Dialarcs (I'd sell mine in a heart beat for that)

    I sold my 251, with 120 bottle (which I couldn't find anyone to fill in Maryland) for $1500. I was asking $1600 - leaving wiggle room. The guy was going to pay the full price so I literally had to twist his arm to get him to haggle with me. He was also a hobbyist welder and was struggling with a big box store red welder. A GMAW monster (comparatively) like the 251 had him grinning ear to ear. He literally was smiling when he lifted the hood after a test bead. Note: when buying a car, and taking a test drive, don't let the salesman see you smiling when you pull back into the lot...

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  • cruizer
    replied
    I honestly can't believe that motor is pooched. You know it takes 2 wires to the armature and 2 wires to make the field just to make the unit turn.

    I can remember a month or so back working on a subarc drive where I lost a armature wire, had to spin the unit by hand, though it would only go in one direction. Fixed the wiring (busted fuse bracket) and off it went

    Now that CB1 would light up if the brake resistor was still turned on, and thats controled off relay cr1.

    That or Q1 unijunction transistor, or Q2 stud mount SCR on the control board.

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  • SunGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by con_fuse9 View Post
    As for what an old millermatic 200 is worth, in pristine shape, with bottle, the asking price on Craigslist is $800. However, at the $1000 level, I would expect to be able to find a 251. Currently I spotted a listing for a 252 at $1300. So I suspect $800 for that 200 is wishful thinking.
    I wish I live in your neck of the woods. $1300 for a 252, I would be all over it. $1400 for a 251 sold within hours in my neck of the woods. Seems like everything in SF Bay Area is overpriced!!!

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  • duaneb55
    replied
    Originally posted by mudman View Post
    Well I cleaned the commutator hoping that would do the trick, but no luck. I also cleaned and inspected the gear box. I will change the brushes this week. I got in touch with Larry Burross, he has a motor and his price is fair.
    Did you ask him about troubleshooting the motor? Winding resistance values etc.?


    Originally posted by mudman View Post
    As far as the manual, the serial # is ja371791, maybe I am doing something wrong trying to download it.
    Worked for me small caps and all. OM-1303A dated August 1979.

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  • cruizer
    replied
    No, it pops it's own over load circuit breaker sheeeesh

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  • con_fuse9
    replied
    If I understand the details, the motor tries to turn (with manual help) and then it pops the breaker. Which means something drew 50Amps at 220.....
    That's a lot of power - might even be enough to turn steel cherry red

    I wonder if there isn't a short in the system. Since the drive rolls are at '+' and their might be a path to ground....

    Maybe re-run the test with the '+' completely disconnected (I assume there is a cable from the '+' terminal to the fitting where the gun plugs in).

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  • bluejay
    replied
    Originally posted by mudman View Post
    As far as the manual, the serial # is ja371791, maybe I am doing something wrong trying to download it.
    Thanks for everyones help.
    Use capital letters (JA not ja) in the serial # box.

    HTH,
    Jay

    Leave a comment:


  • mudman
    replied
    drivemotor

    Well I cleaned the commutator hoping that would do the trick, but no luck. I also cleaned and inspected the gear box. I will change the brushes this week. I got in touch with Larry Burross, he has a motor and his price is fair.
    As far as the manual, the serial # is ja371791, maybe I am doing something wrong trying to download it.
    Thanks for everyones help.

    Leave a comment:


  • CharleyL
    replied
    +1 on the dirty commutator thoughts. Take that motor apart and clean the commutator with some fine emery cloth, being careful not to damage the wires that are connected to it. Id be willing that doing this plus a good cleaning and lubrication are all that the motor needs.

    Charley

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  • duaneb55
    replied
    [QUOTE=mudman;225263]I have tried down loading the manual with my serial # but it is also unavailable.QUOTE]

    Something doesn't sound right there. I have a first generation MM200 and my manual is still on the site.

    I agree with Crawler - if in fact it turns out to be a bad motor, contact Larry. If he doesn't have what you need he probably knows someone who does.

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  • cruizer
    replied
    Take it apart, inspect and relube the gear box. A little labour intensive but won't cost much. For all you know it could be merely a motor armature bearing.

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