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millermatic 200 drive motor problem

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  • #16
    No, it pops it's own over load circuit breaker sheeeesh

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    • #17
      Originally posted by mudman View Post
      Well I cleaned the commutator hoping that would do the trick, but no luck. I also cleaned and inspected the gear box. I will change the brushes this week. I got in touch with Larry Burross, he has a motor and his price is fair.
      Did you ask him about troubleshooting the motor? Winding resistance values etc.?


      Originally posted by mudman View Post
      As far as the manual, the serial # is ja371791, maybe I am doing something wrong trying to download it.
      Worked for me small caps and all. OM-1303A dated August 1979.
      MM200 w/spot controller and Spoolmatic 1
      Syncrowave 180 SD
      Bobcat 225G Plus LPG/NG w/14-pin*
      *Homemade Suitcase Wire Feeder
      *HF-251D-1
      *WC-1S & Spoolmatic 1
      PakMaster 100XL
      Marquette "Star Jet" 21-110
      http://www.millerwelds.com/images/sm...rolleyes.png?2

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      • #18
        Originally posted by con_fuse9 View Post
        As for what an old millermatic 200 is worth, in pristine shape, with bottle, the asking price on Craigslist is $800. However, at the $1000 level, I would expect to be able to find a 251. Currently I spotted a listing for a 252 at $1300. So I suspect $800 for that 200 is wishful thinking.
        I wish I live in your neck of the woods. $1300 for a 252, I would be all over it. $1400 for a 251 sold within hours in my neck of the woods. Seems like everything in SF Bay Area is overpriced!!!
        MM 135
        MM 200
        Dynasty 200DX
        Most $$$ toy - DynaPack 4000!

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        • #19
          I honestly can't believe that motor is pooched. You know it takes 2 wires to the armature and 2 wires to make the field just to make the unit turn.

          I can remember a month or so back working on a subarc drive where I lost a armature wire, had to spin the unit by hand, though it would only go in one direction. Fixed the wiring (busted fuse bracket) and off it went

          Now that CB1 would light up if the brake resistor was still turned on, and thats controled off relay cr1.

          That or Q1 unijunction transistor, or Q2 stud mount SCR on the control board.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by SunGuy View Post
            I wish I live in your neck of the woods. $1300 for a 252, I would be all over it. $1400 for a 251 sold within hours in my neck of the woods. Seems like everything in SF Bay Area is overpriced!!!
            Sorry to hijack.

            Prices have been up and down. One guy in NJ was willing to sell me a Dynasty 200DX for $1250 - but my wife started loading the gun so I passed.

            I occasionally do a nationwide search for some specific items I need. In California I see lots of stuff south of you (LA), plus Las Vegas had some interesting sales. Florida also looks to be a good place for some better equipment. I drove 250miles one way for the deal on the 350P.

            The good news is the asking prices have been going up and the number of newer welders has been going down. I hope that is a good trend for the economy as a whole, people working more, selling off newish, good equipment less.

            Heh, I've seen people asking $2000+ for Dialarcs (I'd sell mine in a heart beat for that)

            I sold my 251, with 120 bottle (which I couldn't find anyone to fill in Maryland) for $1500. I was asking $1600 - leaving wiggle room. The guy was going to pay the full price so I literally had to twist his arm to get him to haggle with me. He was also a hobbyist welder and was struggling with a big box store red welder. A GMAW monster (comparatively) like the 251 had him grinning ear to ear. He literally was smiling when he lifted the hood after a test bead. Note: when buying a car, and taking a test drive, don't let the salesman see you smiling when you pull back into the lot...
            Con Fuse!
            Miller Dynasty 350
            Millermatic 350P
            -Spoolmatic 30A

            Hypertherm PowerMax 1000G3
            Miller Multimatic 200 - awesome portable MIG (and stick and TIG)
            Miller Maxstar 200DX - portable TIG and stick

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            • #21
              I checked the motor out, it has no continuity in the fields on either side, seems strange that both sides could have burned out at the same time. It doesn't have any shorts to ground. Could excessive drag in the gun liner cause the motor to burn out? I am going to change that liner any way just for good measure?

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              • #22
                What are you talking about, this unit has field AND armature windings. So your not going to get ANYTHING off the brush holders to any other wire

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                • #23
                  I have the motor apart and checked both the armature and the field for continuity and for short. I also checked where the leads have crimp connections and also visually inspected wires to see if anything looked amiss.

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                  • #24
                    Millermatic 200 - anybody still looking at this?

                    I had a similiar problem but my motor was just doing a little jerking and not always real smooth at lower speeds especially. It turns out the problem was not anything do do with the motor. The potentiometer you turn to adjust the speed was apparently dirty or bad- not sure which, but replaced it with a radio shack new one with the same resistance and wham $12.92 the problem was fixed. Check for dead spots or totally bad adjustment pot. There is a circuit board someplace too, but I think they are EXPENSIVE.

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