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  • duaneb55
    replied
    jessem,

    Another 'mechanical' thing crossed my mind that I failed to mention earlier and will result in what I consider an rpm 'flutter' rather than a broader rpm range 'surge' but is worth mentioning.

    Is there a governor link spring on the governor link? The spring is actually fitted over the link and attaches to the other hole in the throttle lever (red arrows) and to the governor lever (black arrows).
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    The governor link spring takes the slack out of the linkage and thereby eliminate the rpm 'flutter' mentioned above. Just something else to check while you're at it.

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  • duaneb55
    replied
    Well, if you're up for it and have the ability to do it, rather than repost everything that has already been recently discussed on the topic you can check out the thread below regarding a Bobcat carb rebuild including where to get the rebuild kit at a very reasonable price. Get the accelerator pump kit too if you're going to do it.

    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...ad.php?t=20667

    Where are you located?

    Leave a comment:


  • jessem
    replied
    ok no go on switching holes i did look at a diaphram on the side of the carburator its seen better days i think maybe a carb rebuild on this thing wouldnt be a bad isea only thing is it dont know the model number for this thing if looked fopr a plate/sticker and nothing.

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  • Reef Keeper
    replied
    I agree with duane55 the governor adjustment may be out or the governor is seized. Smaller fork lift do the same thing Get the engine to run before other repairs are made.

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  • duaneb55
    replied
    OK jessem, Let's set the Auto Idle issue aside for just a moment and concentrate on getting the unit to run smoothly.

    The 'hunting' or surging up and down sounds like governor sensitivity which is adjusted by the placement of the governor speed spring in the governor lever as shown here:
    Click image for larger version

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    Move the spring location out one or two holes which will 'buffer' the governor reaction and should smooth out the RPM unless you do have a carburetor problem that would require a carburetor overhaul or a cleaning at the very least. The fact that the speed settles down by pulling out the choke a little indicates the carburetor may indeed need attention but try the governor speed spring location first as it's easier and I rarely see them in the first hole as it appears to be in your photo.

    Let us know.

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  • jessem
    replied
    Originally posted by Reef Keeper View Post
    Just a simple question can you idle it down manually?
    sure can with finger

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  • Reef Keeper
    replied
    Just a simple question can you idle it down manually?

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  • jessem
    replied
    ok this is what i got after changeing holes in link at start choke is out then starts push choke back in it starts to throttel back and forth and if i pull choke out just a bit its ok but it never really idels down and if i push the choke back in so it will throttel back and forth and hold with my finger it idels down but as soon as i let go same thing lol...

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  • duaneb55
    replied
    When assembled correctly, you should be able to pull the governor lever, governor link and idler solenoid plunger all back to the idle position with the engine running by hand as a check prior to seeing if it works properly electrically.

    Don't forget, when functioning properly electrically, there's an approximate 15 second delay before the auto idler activates after selecting the Auto Idle mode with no load on the unit.

    Leave a comment:


  • jessem
    replied
    Originally posted by duaneb55 View Post
    jessem, I can't tell for sure due to the photo size but it looks like the governor link is in the wrong hole on the carb throttle lever.

    Governor link goes in this hole.
    [ATTACH]21287[/ATTACH]
    all right now where getting somewhere ill change it and see where that will get me man im appreciate all the help and patience

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  • jessem
    replied
    Originally posted by mooseye View Post
    did this just start happening out of the blue or did it get worked on first?
    If the solenoid is working then find the linkage going to the carb and work the idle switch and watch the linkage. Does it move the lever on the carb? If so, you may have a loose butterfly in the carb or an air leak but definitely not an electrical problem.
    no the guy i bought this from had taken it apart to paint and look it had the linkage loose from one end not the carb end and ive been trying to fix the idel board or red box what ever the heck it is i changed it cause it smell like burnt wire and the throttel solenoid i changed it cause it just looked rough

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  • cruizer
    replied
    Originally posted by mooseye View Post
    > i changed those and still nothing the solenoid is pulling in but its not ideling down the carb < from his eariler post.
    Good, eye, he just kept changing parts, so I didn't catch on, making it a throttle issue, whoops, time to get better reading glasses.

    Leave a comment:


  • mooseye
    replied
    Originally posted by cruizer View Post
    He's got high idle, no low idle, idle solinoid is not pulling to low idle. He's been replacing parts without knowing whats actually going on, which is ok, pretty sure he has no 12Vdc either from the oil pressure switch or start/run/idle switch.
    > i changed those and still nothing the solenoid is pulling in but its not ideling down the carb < from his eariler post.

    Leave a comment:


  • duaneb55
    replied
    jessem, I can't tell for sure due to the photo size but it looks like the governor link is in the wrong hole on the carb throttle lever.

    Governor link goes in this hole.
    Click image for larger version

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    Leave a comment:


  • cruizer
    replied
    He's got high idle, no low idle, idle solinoid is not pulling to low idle. He's been replacing parts without knowing whats actually going on, which is ok, pretty sure he has no 12Vdc either from the oil pressure switch or start/run/idle switch.

    Leave a comment:

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