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200dynasty DX Pulser stuff Hmmmmm!?

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  • 200dynasty DX Pulser stuff Hmmmmm!?

    Hu Guys! I am just one more dude seeking Dynasty 200 DX tig/pulser hints.
    I have had the Dienasty for some time but I have not used the pulser until now. I guess I haven't had much need for it(at this point I'm not sure what benefit it really provides).

    I used the factory settings for PPS(100), Pk(50%) ,BKGND(25). Things looked pretty nasty for a while ,,then cleared up and I was doing better(not great mind you!) Then the tungsten started burning up.

    I have used 1/16 tungsten before on regular tigging and had consistent sucess with it. A freind who is an excellent certified welder suggested 1/8th tungsten. I was using 3/32 ceriated for the pulser. It kept rounding off and that's not good for anything!

    I varied the amps and generally it seemed best at about 100 amps but still too hot and the electrode wilted faster than,,,,never mind that!
    Any points y'all could give here would be great!
    Oh yeah! 16 gage cold rolled sheet.
    Thanks guys

  • #2
    make sure the machine is set to DC- straight polarity, loose connections on the gas, contaminated argon etc.
    The tungsten will round off or ball the end if its set to AC or DC+, the latter will burn it up short order at 100 amps.
    I have found the pulser to be of value at low currents on sheet metal, It tends to make the tungsten point last longer for me on .040 tungsten. I have tried the pulser on stainless tube but havent seen an improvement over straight DC. I have heard guys swear by it, so I may be overlooking something.
    Last edited by popspipes; 02-06-2010, 08:33 PM.
    mike sr

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    • #3
      Your machine settings start with DC-Straight Polarity (DCEN)

      1/16" electrode will work fine with that set up. Get it going to see results.then set pulse to see the changes.

      Ronnie

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      • #4
        I was thinking DC- as well. DC+ is heII on tungsten
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        • #5
          thanks guys

          Thanks for the input guys! I will heed the advices and proceed with care!
          This is,as always, a good source of information and that makes the puddle so much smoother!
          MB

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          • #6
            Originally posted by mulugod View Post
            Thanks for the input guys! I will heed the advices and proceed with care!
            This is,as always, a good source of information and that makes the puddle so much smoother!
            MB
            mulugod, I thought you were coming back to Hawaii/Big Island???
            I'm not late...
            I'm just on Hawaiian Time

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            • #7
              Originally posted by mulugod View Post
              I used the factory settings for PPS(100), Pk(50%) ,BKGND(25). Things looked pretty nasty for a while ,,then cleared up and I was doing better(not great mind you!) Then the tungsten started burning up.

              I have used 1/16 tungsten before on regular tigging and had consistent sucess with it. A freind who is an excellent certified welder suggested 1/8th tungsten. I was using 3/32 ceriated for the pulser. It kept rounding off and that's not good for anything!

              I varied the amps and generally it seemed best at about 100 amps but still too hot and the electrode wilted faster than,,,,never mind that!
              Any points y'all could give here would be great!
              Oh yeah! 16 gage cold rolled sheet.
              Thanks guys
              I've never used the high frequency pulser so I played around with it this afternoon. On metal about .100 thick (after I sanded it down) I ran a bead at 120 Amps, 1/16 filler. Puddle was forming rather slow and didn't have full pentration. 3/32 ceriated.

              So turned on the pulser. 200pps, Pk(50%) ,BKGND(25). I wanted to see dramatic difference. I got dramatic. Took forever to form a puddle and it was barely 1/16 wide.

              Next I turned it up to 250 Amps. Now I could get the puddle back to the same size (makes sense). So bead and HAZ looked almost the same. One thing I did notice is the bead did not round off nicely. When I added filler, right in the middle (9 o'clock position), somewhere around the 4-5 position I got a little spur. The ground clamp was 6 o'clock from the weld. Some kind of arc blow? When the plate cools down I might try again with a re-sharpened point. Bottom line, the cooling of the puddle was different.

              In any case, no melting of the ceriated tip although I might have seen a bit of frosting on the tip - like if you accindently dip into/contaminate with aluminum. Seemed to cleanup well with grinder.
              Con Fuse!
              Miller Dynasty 350
              Millermatic 350P
              -Spoolmatic 30A

              Hypertherm PowerMax 1000G3
              Miller Multimatic 200 - awesome portable MIG (and stick and TIG)
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              • #8
                Sorry about the misinformation in my above post, I meant straight polarity instead of DC+. Straight polarity is DC negative. I also edited the post to correct it.

                I also set up the pulse with "average current", nail the pedal, strike an arc, and check the reading on the ammeter and adjust the amperage to the reading I want with the new pulse setting. This way I can change the pulse percentages etc and still wind up with the current I want without the math.

                In other words if you are using 100 amps dc and want to use pulse say 50 percent, your amps will need to be set higher to get the same output with the 50 percent setting. I find it easier to use the average current method to get my new setting dialed in.

                I hope this is a little clearer than mud , I have some miles on the old brain cells, things dont always come out the way I want them to.
                Last edited by popspipes; 02-06-2010, 08:34 PM.
                mike sr

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                • #9
                  I don't know why, but my Dynasty has a real need to be set in the hidden menu for the tungsten size your using.

                  I had it set for a 1/16 and figured when I put in the 3/32 I would just turn up the amps and everything else would be the same.

                  What a mess I was making with the tungsten. Went back to the menu and change it to 3/32 and everything was good again for that electrode.

                  With the 3/32 also being part of the default, you can just reset defaults if you've ever been playing with the original settings.

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