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  • OT- Cold galvanising

    I have a trailer that is slowly rusting away... I'm thinking about sand blasting it next summer, and was wondering if anyone had experience with cold galvanising (ie. zinc paint) as used on bridges and such. Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated.

    Thanks
    Ben

  • #2
    Galvanising paint.

    I've used this paint before on several tasks. One was an extension to a dock davit about 10 feet in the air. once the extension was complete, I painted to raw metal with the cold galvanising paint. From my experience in making steel implants for concrete, this paint works very well. NOT as well as hot galvy will bit good none the less. Depending on the size of you fabrication, quite a few of the hot galvy places can handle it. It's worth the phone calls to find out.

    You can get the cold galvy paint at hardware and home centers.
    Mustangs Forever!

    Miller equipment.

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    • #3
      Thanks for the reply. Since I live just down the street from the middle of nowhere... I think hot dip is kinda out of the question. The trailer is a goosenenck flatbed about 35' overall. It is 15 years old and showing the time and road salt.

      I want to blast it down this summer and refinish, I was thinking the zinc paint would make a good finish for not much more $$ than good quality paint.

      Ben

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      • #4
        If you sand blast down to white metal I'd just use a good grade of epoxy primer which is a 100% vapor barrier then recoat with something like a linear polyuethane. living 100' from the ocean most everything is hot dipped galvanized for building materials, so we epoxy coat the welds then use cold galv over the epoxy to prolong life and match up the rest of the material

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        • #5
          We use cold galvanized quite a bit where i work. We do alot of structural and bridge repair. For stuff like brick angle and other galvanized steel we use rustoleum or walter cold galvanized and it works good for painting the welds/the application. It works better if the weld is still warm when your painting.
          On most bridge work/ repairs we do we will either use a brush on hot galvanized which works really good and lasts a long time or or a cold galvanized spray called ZINGALU. The brush on hot galv requires you to heat the area with a torch and then rub a stick of galvanizing on and then wire brush it in. Needless to say it takes a long time to cover an area this way..

          The zingalu works really good.... and i hope it would. It comes in two forms you can get it in a spray bomb or in a paint can. I'm not sure how much the brush on paint cans are but one spray bomb of Zinga is worth about $60.00 !!! Right now im welding bridge bearings and were useing zinga on them. 3 coats an hour apart and that is supposed to protect the bearings for quite a while.
          So my question is are there other options than cold galvanizing cause to paint a whole trailer it might get kinda pricey but then if your gonna do something might as well do it to make it last. I would call around like suggested and maybe find a galvanizing shop that could handle it. Ive also seen people get that LINEX coating on thier trailer frames... just an idea though.

          Oh and before i forget heres a link to the Zingalu website for those who are interested.
          http://www.zinga-uk.com/

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          • #6
            Re: Cold Galvanizing

            I have used the Rustolium brand Cold Galvanizing primer. Personally I don't like the quality of the spray from Rustolium but it was adaquate (left a rough surface). I then covered that with Duplicolor automotive paint and the result has lasted years outdoors. This is on a stationary cabinent - not a trailer. So no salt spray etc.

            If you really want to protect it. Consider this:
            1) Sand to bare metal.
            2) Spray a light coat of Zinc Chromate (see boating supply places - note: I was told that Zinc Chromate was not available in Maryland anymore). Zinc Chromate absorbs into the metal.
            3) Spray with a primer sealer - talk to autobody supply place. Ask them about flex additive in the primer sealer. Two coats of this seems to help against chipping of paint.
            4) Optional high build primer (how smooth of a paint job do you want).
            5) Top coat. Consider a little bit of flex additive hear as well. I'm not sure if flex additives are needed anymore. Paint technology has completely changed in the last 10 years.
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            • #7
              Google "por15" coatings. I think you will be satisfied with the results.

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              • #8
                Thanks for the replies. I will look into the different options... If I paint it I will probably use Petit Easypoxy over an etching primer. I've had good luck with it in the past, it is a marine grade 1 part epoxy that cost about $100/gal at the time. I am interested in the zinc coatings due to their ability to protect even if scratched and the lack of lift-off from running rust. The Zinga looks interesting especially the ability to recoat without preping.

                Ben

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                • #9
                  galvanize products

                  I live and work down here in Bermuda and being so close to the water everything rusts away do to salt spray. I tend to do 85% of my work with galvanized steel or aluminum.I use three types of galvanized paints ones called ZRC cold galvanized compound (which i swear by) and i sometimes use two spray cans LPS makes one and also Rust-Oleum makes one. Both work out fine but try to get the ZRC i even use it on boat anchors. Hope this helps

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                  • #10
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                    • #11
                      Unless the hardware store/home depot stuff has really inproved over the last few years, you can buy a lot higher quality zinc rich paint from the industrial suppliers.
                      I think you'll be able to get higher zinc content in the brush/roll on gallon containers than in any aresol spray can.
                      When you buy high quality, high zinc spray cans you REALLLLY have to shake the cans before and during use, or the heavy zinc content will clog the spray nozzle right now.
                      The brush/roll on gallon cans give you a ton of zinc and you can get a real heavy coat. Plus you can touch up easy in the backyard at any time.
                      The industrial epoxy paints are good but a lot more expensive and a lot harder to apply and touch up.
                      There are probably a lot of good industial sources out there but I've bought a lot from Clearco and it's high quality and they have been good to deal with. Very long lasting stuff but you gotta shake, shake, shake that can if you use spray bombs.

                      JTMcC.
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                      • #12
                        I use CRC's Zinc it.... they (CRC) claim it's over 90% zinc. seems to work pretty good to me...
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