Diversion problem AGAIN >=(

[andyman]

cant get my diversion to start an arc again just like a few months again. Last time i put in a new outlet and it worked just fine so me and my buddy figured it was the old wiring. started to weld some steel today and after 2 tacs and about a inch bead i couldn't get the **** thing to start another arc. even let it sit for about 3 hrs and still not. i welded AL before this with no problem actually both time it crapped out on me when doing DC. can there be something wrong so that i only have this problem on DC??? or mabe i need to get some wiring updated in the house?

Andy

[Desertrider33]

Take it to a Miller authorized service center and have it checked out.

[andyman]

i did that last time only to waste $10 in tolls plus gas. For the dang thing to weld just fine for the tech. i'm gonna drag it over to my buddys house to try it out tonight in an hour or so.

if it works im guessing its the power at my house but can i just call an electrician to figure it out?

[Tryagn5]

well....

Have you probed the outlet with a voltmeter to check for proper voltage? Do you have any issues in the house with other applicances such as an electric dryer, or an electric stove??
Kevin

[andyman]

i got 247 when i check today and the last time this happened i was getting correct voltage no problems with stuff in the in the house.

[Miller servicedude]

cant get my diversion to start an arc again just like a few months again. Last time i put in a new outlet and it worked just fine so me and my buddy figured it was the old wiring. started to weld some steel today and after 2 tacs and about a inch bead i couldn't get the **** thing to start another arc. even let it sit for about 3 hrs and still not. i welded AL before this with no problem actually both time it crapped out on me when doing DC. can there be something wrong so that i only have this problem on DC??? or mabe i need to get some wiring updated in the house?

Andy

Hello Andy, sorry to hear about the problems you are having with this unit. When the unit will not strike an arc for you does it still get sheilding gas out of the torch ?

[Aerometalworker]

Andy,
dumb question, have you tried touching the tungsten to the work and lifting it before initiating the arc? Depending on the tungsten type and ambient conditions, that little bit of oxidation on the surface of the tungsten can interfere with starting, that little "tap" scrubs the oxides off.

[andyman]

miller servicedude,

I was getting gas flow from the torch.

Aerometalworker,

I did try lift/scratch start.


Also i went to my LWS the other day and tried my welder there worked fine. The guy told me to check my connections at home for loose connections and i did so i checked my small extension cord it was fine i check my outlet there was a semi loose screw but still had the wire in there pretty firm so i tightened it up i checked the connections in the breaker box no problems there. i figured **** i'll try my welder and it magically worked. i'm not complaining though i got my welder back

still makes me wonder if its the welder or the house.

Andy

[SundownIII]

Why would you think it's the welder if it always works at other locations.

DUH???

[andyman]

maybe the welder doesn't like my house???

[TripleTrophy]

maybe the welder doesn't like my house???

Andy, I can relate, I had a Neon with bad karma (7 hits in five years), and my (British) Triumph kept trying to reject the Mikuni (Japanese) fuel petcocks. Sometimes its hard to explain these things.

However, if you have gone and checked everything out, it sounds to me like there may have been some loose connections that might have been affected by the current and resulting heat from using your welder. Now that you have tightened them, it should be okay. A silly question, but is any of the wiring aluminum? Especially if you have aluminum to copper, it is prone to working loose due to thermal cycles.

[enlpck]

If you think it might be the house wiring, the only way to check is under load. If there is no load, the voltage will be the source voltage, even if there is a bad connection, bad wire (rodent chewed, abraded, etc) or a bad breaker.

When checking to identify where the problem is, you should use care, and if you don;t have experience with diagnosing/testing power systems, get assistance from someone that does, as there is potential for injury or property damage if you make a mistake.

Again, if proper precautions are not followed, there is a significant risk of shock, arcflash, or fire.

That said:

The place to start is at the power lugs in the machine. If the problem recurs, open the access for the power lugs (with the power disconnected at the source -- pull the plug) and clip on the voltmeter leads. If the meter is an autorange type, lock the range after reapplying power.

Have someone watch the meter while you strike off. If the voltage drops more than a few percent (maybe 5V on a 240 circuit), you have a supply problem.


In this case, you need to find the problem(s). Set the meter up at the terminals of the outlet where the supply attaches (requires opening it up). No drop: probably the outlet itself not making good contact with the stabs of the plug (the blades). Not uncommon on older outlet for the terminals to lose springiness, and even new ones may not make good contact.

If the problem still shows, move to the panel. No problem? It is in the wiring between the panel and outlet (bad connection in a junction box, bad connection at the outlet, etc). Still a problem? check the main connection. No prob, it is the breaker (probably) Still a problem, it could be the main lead connections at the panel, at the meter pan, or evel at the weatherhead (or elsewhere on the power co side)

About a month ago, the power co reconnected a neighbor. He had major light flicker when the refrigerator came on, and his computer would reset, his cable would go out, etc. Corroded connections at the weatherhead. The neutral from the pole was floating, and he had an effective ground fault. In the end, the cable co replaced the cable and hardware from the pole to the interface box.... The shield (ground) had burned due to the fault currents.

[andyman]

I have great wiring in my house *sarcasm*

the outlet i moved off of was a mix of AL and copper wiring not to mention i have a federal pacific breaker box. the outlet i'm currently running on now is right below the breaker box in the garage. the breaker is new and so is the outlet and im running copper wire. but maybe it was that one connection that was a little loose at the outlet. I guess i just gotta wait and see if it happens again.

it is crazy tho when i was getting no arc or high frequency if i let the machine run while having no arc the fan will come on as if its welding and needs the fan.

Andy

[piper]

diversion

Andyman........ mine would do the same once in a while, hitting the switch off and on, it fired back up (Miller service is it a problem in the making?) Still waiting to here results if the Diversion will run off a Bluestar DX185 (John) St Jacobs weld shop.


Have a good day



Jim

[andyman]

ya but mine didn't work again by turning it off then on that was the big problem.