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16GA tubing welding suggestions.

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  • popspipes
    replied
    Originally posted by 4sfed View Post
    So am I . . . 200 PPS, 75% peak time, 25% background amps, purge is 5 CFH. The collector is .060 thick 304 stainless, the flange is investment cast 304 with an .060 thick projection so the joint is a butt weld.

    [ATTACH]19625[/ATTACH]

    [ATTACH]19624[/ATTACH]

    [ATTACH]19623[/ATTACH]
    looks pretty good to me!

    Leave a comment:


  • 4sfed
    replied
    Originally posted by popspipes View Post
    Jim,
    For me to get 100% reliably thats about the width I need, 1/8" will do it on American stainless, some of the foreign stuff takes more heat yet.
    I am a pre pulse welder on stainless, never used it while I was working. . . . But then again I am still experimenting with it.

    So am I . . . 200 PPS, 75% peak time, 25% background amps, purge is 5 CFH. The collector is .060 thick 304 stainless, the flange is investment cast 304 with an .060 thick projection so the joint is a butt weld.

    Click image for larger version

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    Leave a comment:


  • Z28ricer
    replied
    About how far should each step be i'm taking with the torch ? I believe I was moving about 1/8" or so for each on the welds in the pics that display in the thread.

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  • popspipes
    replied
    Originally posted by 4sfed View Post
    Popspipes . . . why so wide? I've been experimenting with the pulse settings on my Dynasty to try to reduce the bead width, but still produce 100% penetration.

    TIA,
    Jim
    Jim,
    For me to get 100% reliably thats about the width I need, 1/8" will do it on American stainless, some of the foreign stuff takes more heat yet.
    I am a pre pulse welder on stainless, never used it while I was working. A lot of the new guys use the "walk the cup method" and their welds are even wider, but by walking the cup it doesnt sink in the center as the cup removes some heat from the weld.
    I am not a big fan of pulse yet, on the turntable it produces the same weld width for me as it does on straight DC if the average current is the same. But then again I am still experimenting with it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Z28ricer
    replied
    Originally posted by [email protected] View Post
    Looks like you might be a little too hot or not moving quick enough. But that will come with practice and experience. You are getting the hang of it and only seem to need to FineTune what you have already done. Be sure to also leave the torch pointed to your beads after your arc has stopped, keeping the gas flowing until base metal has cooled. Looking good.
    My next post was to ask if It looked like I wasnt moving fast enough, or was moving too fast, I was only getting it hot enough to have the puddle be about 3/16 wide as popspipes said.

    Today i'll try going a bit faster when I get at it, as far as the gas, I have been keeping the torch over the weld, but my post-flow is non-adjustable on the diversion, so it just does its own thing, I am using the "crater out" feature of the button, and for the most part it seems to do a good job on the end of the welds

    Leave a comment:


  • Q@EPM
    replied
    Looks like you might be a little too hot or not moving quick enough. But that will come with practice and experience. You are getting the hang of it and only seem to need to FineTune what you have already done. Be sure to also leave the torch pointed to your beads after your arc has stopped, keeping the gas flowing until base metal has cooled. Looking good.

    Leave a comment:


  • 4sfed
    replied
    Originally posted by popspipes View Post
    If I were doing it probably about 3/16" wide, with practice you will get the hang of it, remember that adding filler you will have to slow your rate of travel or increase the heat apropriately if you are wanting 100% penetration.
    Popspipes . . . why so wide? I've been experimenting with the pulse settings on my Dynasty to try to reduce the bead width, but still produce 100% penetration.

    TIA,
    Jim

    Leave a comment:


  • popspipes
    replied
    You are getting the hang of it, like Aerometalworker said, lots of practice.

    I was lucky in the respect that I worked for a dairy and we had a tig setup that the guys could use anytime so I made it a point to get good at it. There were also fitters finishing up the plant piping at the time and I had the oppportunity to watch some of them and ask questions, it was a great help in the learning process......
    Good luck on your header project!

    Leave a comment:


  • Z28ricer
    replied
    I think i've made a bit of progress, here are some of todays welds. Thanks a bunch for the info popspipes !

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  • Z28ricer
    replied
    I know this pic is blurry, but its one of the best looking ones of the bunch:

    http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...g/EPSN4994.jpg

    Here are a few others

    http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...g/EPSN4995.jpg

    http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...g/EPSN5000.jpg

    There are more in that album, today in a little while im going to see what I can get without weaving the torch, hopefully I can get it to flatten out a bit, as the ones before I've tried like that ended up quite narrow.

    Leave a comment:


  • popspipes
    replied
    If I were doing it probably about 3/16" wide, with practice you will get the hang of it, remember that adding filler you will have to slow your rate of travel or increase the heat apropriately if you are wanting 100% penetration.

    It would help greatly if there was someone you could watch, there is a lot to be learned about tecnique by watching someone who knows how..

    Leave a comment:


  • Z28ricer
    replied
    How wide realistically *should* my weld be on this tubing ? That would probably help me a LOT.

    Leave a comment:


  • Z28ricer
    replied
    Popspipes, thank you for the input, from what you posted it sounds like I should stop with the small side to side motion of the torch as I'm moving along, should I have to pulse the heat after adding filler possibly to get the bead to be wider ? The fitup in a lot of the joints is well enough for an autogenous weld, but a couple of spots are a bit wider than i'd like, I just dont want to keep doing what i'm doing if its wrong.

    Aerometal: Thats the big idea here, I'm pretty much using them to practice while not just making a complete waste of a bunch of gas and filler, I just dont want to be practicing wrong.

    Leave a comment:


  • popspipes
    replied
    I welded dairy tubing for years, it was mostly stainless 304 1/16" wall.
    Everything was butt fitup, no gap at all and the inside of the tube purged with argon, then Tig welded without filler rod. This gives a 100% weld and it looks as good on the inside as it does on the outside. This can also be done with carbon steel as well.
    The 1/16" tungsten should be adequate, gas lens is recommended ( I use it for everything), use straight argon, I use a straight drag on the torch, slight foreward and back motion, control the puddle width with heat and travel. The current should be about 40 to 50 amps dcen.
    It takes some practice to get good at it, its not a difficult process.
    Do not touch the tungsten with the filler or to the base metal, once the tungsten is contaminated it will degrade the weld.
    No drafts, it blows the sheilding gas away.
    10 to 15 cfh on the argon to the torch, 5 to 10 cfh on the purge line.
    If you use filler rod the heat will vary to get 100% penetration.

    Hopefully some of this will help you get going on your project.

    Leave a comment:


  • Aerometalworker
    replied
    Practice??


    You shouldnt need to be fiddling around with changing tungstens and filler sizes all the time. Either 1/16" ot 3/32" will work fine, either size filler will work fine. If it were me I would just stick with the 3/32" tungsten and work on practicing.

    Leave a comment:

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