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  • New to welding, bought a maxstar 150s

    I'm new to welding, tried it at work and can't stop. I just bought a miller maxstar 150s and went to my local tractor supply and purchased a variety of rods to play. I think I'm doing alright but seem to have a fair amount of undercut in almost all of my welds. too much heat?

  • #2
    Hard to tell from here without pics and other info. A variety of rods may be confusing, to start with that machine 6011 and 7018. They operate differently, learn the basics with those and you are on your way.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Fruecrue View Post
      I'm new to welding, tried it at work and can't stop. I just bought a miller maxstar 150s and went to my local tractor supply and purchased a variety of rods to play. I think I'm doing alright but seem to have a fair amount of undercut in almost all of my welds. too much heat?
      Can be from too high current setting, travelling too fast, wrong work angle.
      Millermatic350P/Python, MillermaticReach/Q300
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      • #4
        Originally posted by Desertrider33 View Post
        Can be from too high current setting, travelling too fast, wrong work angle.
        Hello, and Welcome to our little play house !
        Anyway, Ditto what Desertrider said !!

        ............. Norm
        www.normsmobilewelding.blogspot.com

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        • #5
          Thanks guys. It's probably a combination of things. I'll gladly keep practicing. I just need to find some new material. Everything I got is stuck together.

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          • #6
            3/32 7018

            Begin with 3/32 7018 in the dc+, run between 85-95 amps, very nice welding rod. Easy to learn on, always chip flux between passes. Have fun!
            Kevin
            Lincoln ranger 305g x2
            Ln25
            Miller spectrum 625
            Miller 30a spoolgun
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            Lincoln 210mp
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            • #7
              6010 does not work well with this machine

              Due to low open circuit voltage and possibly lack of reserve power 6010 doesn't burn well. 6013 is a good general all-around rod. It doesn't dig as much as 6010/6011 but more than 7018. It also has the widest availability of small sizes. I have seen 1/16" rods, but really 3/32" and 1/8" are all you really need with this machine. 7018 must be kept sealed/dry when not in use.

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              • #8
                I bought some 1/8 7018 at lowes the day I got my new toy and realized after I got home, the rod is marked 7018 AC. It seems to burn well and look ok. Would there be any benefit to buying more that is designated for DCEP and shelving the AC rod or would I just be wasting money and good rod? I did already buy some hobart 3/32 7018 marked for AC or DC and they seem (to my novice eye) to burn and look very similar. And thanks deafman, I was wonering about the 6010, I had read before that the 150s doesn't like them. I brought home a few rods from work just to satisfy my curiousity, I can burn them but they seem to need high amperage and a long sloppy arc- not producing a desireable weld and not worth the effort- but thats only my 2 cents.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by davedarragh
                  FrueCrue: It's a nice little machine. The rods at Home Depot/Lowe's are basically designed for the low-open circuit Lincoln 225 AC machines they sell. They'll work okay on the MaxStar, but the good 6011's (Lincoln Fleetweld 35's, Hobart 335A) run excellent. Lincoln Excalibur 7018's or Hobart 418's and 6013's should be all you need. If you don't have one, Miller sells an SMAW calculator so you know what amperage to use for each type/size of electrode.

                  I've also found E-4043 aluminum rods don't run very well on the MaxStar 150S either.

                  Have fun

                  Dave
                  Dave, Hi; I'm Not Sure E-4043 electrodes run very well on any machine !!

                  .......... Norm
                  www.normsmobilewelding.blogspot.com

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by nfinch86 View Post
                    Dave, Hi; I'm Not Sure E-4043 electrodes run very well on any machine !!

                    .......... Norm
                    i agree. even on my sync.200.. those 4043 alum. stick rods. don't deposit anything pretty.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Fruecrue View Post
                      I bought some 1/8 7018 at lowes the day I got my new toy and realized after I got home, the rod is marked 7018 AC. It seems to burn well and look ok. Would there be any benefit to buying more that is designated for DCEP and shelving the AC rod or would I just be wasting money and good rod? I did already buy some hobart 3/32 7018 marked for AC or DC and they seem (to my novice eye) to burn and look very similar. And thanks deafman, I was wonering about the 6010, I had read before that the 150s doesn't like them. I brought home a few rods from work just to satisfy my curiousity, I can burn them but they seem to need high amperage and a long sloppy arc- not producing a desireable weld and not worth the effort- but thats only my 2 cents.
                      Fruecrue, not enough good things can be said about the Maxstar 150.
                      I have used 6010 from Hyundai successfully with mine. 6013s are rutillic which really benefit using direct polarity (DCEN) for better penetration. They are intended for general use producing quality welds with great looks and little spatter. If the job demands more responsability I would always use 7018 above any rutillic electrode.
                      Congrats on your new adquisition.

                      Regards:

                      Jerónimo.
                      Jerónimo.

                      Traumao è la elètrica.

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                      • #12
                        Those 18's AC will run great on that machine. They usually re-light easier then the DC versions.

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                        • #13
                          Thanks to everyone. A lot of useful information, I have been reading and learning all over this forum. Glad to have such a wealth of knowledge at my fingertips.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by myistar View Post
                            i agree. even on my sync.200.. those 4043 alum. stick rods. don't deposit anything pretty.


                            I can point you to several welders that can, and do make some very slick welds with those alu stick rods.

                            Anyone that tells you alu stick is ugly either doesn't know how to weld or won't take the time (about 15 minutes) required to learn to make pretty little welds with alu rods.

                            JTMcC.
                            Some days you eat the bear. And some days the bear eats you.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by JTMcC View Post
                              .... won't take the time (about 15 minutes) required to learn to make pretty little welds with alu rods.

                              JTMcC.
                              But,,, but,,,, but ..... John!!!!?????? Whatever happened to "plug and play?" ?????....
                              Obviously, I'm just a hack-artist, you shouldn't be listening to anything I say .....

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