polished M/S finishing?

[journeyman]

I've recently finished a set of handrails for the entryway of a customers home.Using polished mild steel,oak and glass. I've looked @ clear powder coating but have gotten some negative feedback on results. Guys saying stuff like "i've seen the steel spider web rust under the coating", or things like "you get what you get". A real turn off for what is said to be a superior finish to a clear 2-part urethane. I'm hoping someone with finishing background can help with my decision, don't really want to be re&reing this project due to poor finish or short life. I am aware that powder coating is a tuffer finish but is the risk really that high? I've also heard of using lower curing temps and longer cure times help???????????????????? Thanks to anyone that can help.

[aametalmaster]

I have used the same clear finish i used on my hardwood floors for some of my projects...Bob

[journeyman]

mild steel finishings

I have used the same clear finish i used on my hardwood floors for some of my projects...Bob

Like a Varathane Diamond coat?

[aametalmaster]

Yup thats it Varathane High Gloss Polyurathane...Bob

[Bodybagger]

Way back in the olden days, people used to use high gloss clear lacquer on polished metals. It's time tested and works well. Might try it if you can get your hands on it.

[Buddy T]

m/s steel

I use a lot of laquer you need to spray a seal coat light sand with 280 grit then spray laquer a high gloss will make every flaw stand out a satin gloss will look much better you will have to add a product called "smothy" it is called fish eye remover or the laquer will spider on the steel you add it to the sealer and laquer you can also add a tint to the laquer

[journeyman]

I use a lot of laquer you need to spray a seal coat light sand with 280 grit then spray laquer a high gloss will make every flaw stand out a satin gloss will look much better you will have to add a product called "smothy" it is called fish eye remover or the laquer will spider on the steel you add it to the sealer and laquer you can also add a tint to the laquer

Not entirely familiar with finishes like this so excuse me if this sounds like a stupid questions but is a laquer the same as a urethane and is it as durable. Being that this will be on hand rails it will see keys, rings, etc, running over it.

thanks for all the input

[Buddy T]

m/s steel

If you use a post catylised laquer ( you add the catylist ) it is a lot harder then the precat laquer most tables are post laquer if you write on a table that was sprayed with precat you can read the letter in the table post laquer is used on pianos for it durability and hard finish if it gets scratched or damaged you just spray again the laquer melts into the old finish

[Aerometalworker]

I think you have a couple issues to think of. One of them being finish durability, another being corrosion resistance WHEN the finish gets damaged, and the last is repairability of the finish. Powdercoat has a good initial durability, but lacks the ability to prevent corrosion from going under the finish when it gets damaged, and is for all practical terms impossible to "field repair". 2K urethanes or enamels ( dont use water based for obvious reasons ) have almost as "durable" of a finish as powdercoat, have much higher resistance to corrosion creeping under the finish, and are spot repairable in the field. 1K materials in the organic field such as laquers, shellacs, etc have a nice look, and can resist corrosion fairly well, but arent very durable in that environment. Figure the coating WILL get chipped and flake off, after all its a polished, un-primed surface. So pick one thats reasonably tough, and can be repaired easily. Personally I would pick a 2K acrylic-enamel.

[Broccoli1]

I've recently finished a set of handrails for the entryway of a customers home.

This is outside correct?

[journeyman]

I think you have a couple issues to think of. One of them being finish durability, another being corrosion resistance WHEN the finish gets damaged, and the last is repairability of the finish. Powdercoat has a good initial durability, but lacks the ability to prevent corrosion from going under the finish when it gets damaged, and is for all practical terms impossible to "field repair". 2K urethanes or enamels ( dont use water based for obvious reasons ) have almost as "durable" of a finish as powdercoat, have much higher resistance to corrosion creeping under the finish, and are spot repairable in the field. 1K materials in the organic field such as laquers, shellacs, etc have a nice look, and can resist corrosion fairly well, but arent very durable in that environment. Figure the coating WILL get chipped and flake off, after all its a polished, un-primed surface. So pick one thats reasonably tough, and can be repaired easily. Personally I would pick a 2K acrylic-enamel.

Why 2K acrylic-enamel and why not a urethane?
Thanks very much

[journeyman]

This is outside correct?

No, the rails will be inside.

Thanks

[FusionKing]

Indoors I would just do what was tuff and somewhat softer to be more chip resistant myself.
By the time it gets wore out, no one should blame you.
Outdoors is a whole different ballgame IMO
I liked the floor stuff idea as well. It would have to be tuff. Just do a nice job and you should be fine.

[Aerometalworker]

Why 2K acrylic-enamel and why not a urethane?
Thanks very much

Tends to be more impact resistant. It has the same look, polish etc. as a 2K urethane, but with better "toughness". Its only drawback is that its slower to cure, so for body shops its a " time-is-money" issue. If you want it really tough, then just shoot AE as a 1K, but your going to be waiting a couple days for it to harden up, and full cure comes after about 2 weeks. You can oven bake it though and have it done in about 2 hours.

[journeyman]

Thanks for all the input guys