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  • Dynasty 200

    I get my first machine tomorrow. 200 DX. I'm going with 220 off a box put in for a 220 AC unit. It has a place for another set of breakers. Thinking I'll need 30 amp in each. I have a guy thats going to stop buy and check everything wiring related and make suggestions but until then I have a few questions.

    The wire I have on hand is 12 gage. Is this ok for a 30' run to my building? I sure would like to use it, this machine is breaking the bank.

    Also, I would like to know which plug will be the most common as I would like to install a commonly used plug on the machine itself then make one adaptor for any 110 outlet I may need later on.

    If I need to carry it outside for my boat, what is the best drop cord I could use and would you make a drop cord for 220 or 110? Just thining 220 with an adaptor for 110 at each end maybe?

    I have so many questions. Getting the unit set correctly will be some of my concern. I’ve tig welded off and on for 15 years, boat prop blades at a local shop. There you see good metal and some real bad stuff, and some very thin blades. The Miller DialArc there is 35+ years old and does a great job but settings are so basic on it.

    If anyone knows links to a good settings page for the DX, could you post them here? I’ve seen a few but would like to read more.

    Thanks form any info,

  • #2
    Originally posted by Hardrock40 View Post
    I'm going with 220 off a box put in for a 220 AC unit. It has a place for another set of breakers. Thinking I'll need 30 amp in each. I have a guy thats going to stop buy and check everything wiring related and make suggestions but until then I have a few questions.

    The wire I have on hand is 12 gage. Is this ok for a 30' run to my building? I sure would like to use it, this machine is breaking the bank.

    Also, I would like to know which plug will be the most common as I would like to install a commonly used plug on the machine itself then make one adaptor for any 110 outlet I may need later on.

    If I need to carry it outside for my boat, what is the best drop cord I could use and would you make a drop cord for 220 or 110? Just thining 220 with an adaptor for 110 at each end maybe?

    I have so many questions. Getting the unit set correctly will be some of my concern. I’ve tig welded off and on for 15 years, boat prop blades at a local shop. There you see good metal and some real bad stuff, and some very thin blades. The Miller DialArc there is 35+ years old and does a great job but settings are so basic on it.

    If anyone knows links to a good settings page for the DX, could you post them here? I’ve seen a few but would like to read more.
    12 AWG will be fine. The Dynasty DX draws 20 amps with a 60% duty cycle on 230V single phase, so the 30 amp breaker and the 12AWG will be fine as well. I use 20 amp breaker and plugs on mine. This is because I have 3 phase power at home and the 60% duty cycle with that is 12.3 amps.

    As for plugs........ there are several ways you can go here. I like the twist lock connections myself.
    I have these for the shop use. Here is the wall outlet (Nema 14L-20) and the matching 14L-20 plug for my shop connection.....





    I have made up a pigtail with a twist lock receptacle on one end and a 2 blade w/ grd plug on the other end............



    The easy way for me to do this was to simply purchase a replacement cord for my MM251 machine from a LWS for $34.

    This gives me the molded plug on one end of the 8 ft long cord. To the other end I attached the twist lock L14-20 receptacle, leaving the 'red' wire not connected.

    With this pigtail I can plug into a 230V single phase connection, found at most locations.
    I run my Dynasty off 3 phase in the shop, and this is most efficient, if you have that supply.

    I also built a 50 ft extension cord to use for 3 phase work outside the shop, so I have everything pretty well covered with that.
    I chose not to make a pigtail for 115V use because you need a 115V 20 amp plug and receptacle. This plug/receptacle has one of the prongs turned 90° and will not plug into a 115V 15 amp receptacle. (And you do not want to that anyway) Most receptacles I come across outside are either 15 amp or else the place has 230V single phase........ pg
    Last edited by piniongear; 09-25-2009, 11:32 AM.
    Dynasty 200 DX_set up on 3 phase
    Coolmate 3
    MM 251 w/ Spoolmatic 30A
    HTP 625 Micro Cut Plasma Cutter
    Victor O/A Rig
    Bridgeport Mill_3 phase (w/ Acu-Rite 4 axis DRO)
    10 inch South Bend Lathe_3 phase
    Baldor Double Cup Tool Grinder_3 phase
    Baldor 10 inch Buffer
    Rockwell 12 inch Disc Sander
    Cyclone 2ft X 3ft Bead Blast Cabinet
    Quincy 325 2stg- Air Compressor_3 phase
    Graymills Built-in Parts Washer
    Rockwell/Delta Planer, HD Shaper, Uni-Saw etc.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Hardrock40 View Post
      If anyone knows links to a good settings page for the DX, could you post them here? I’ve seen a few but would like to read more.
      Some settings here:
      http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...ad.php?t=18426
      RETIRED desk jockey.

      Hobby weldor with a little training.

      Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz.

      Miller Syncrowave 250.
      sigpic

      Comment


      • #4
        This is what works for me.



        I installed a cord from the Passport onto my Dynasty 200DX. To switch from 220 to 110 is simple and fast.



        For my extension cords (220) I use 250/125 50amp twist lock. I use a pigtail to adapt from the Dynasty to the 125/250 50a. I use this 125/250 50a twist type because 99% of the field work I do is at construction sites and they use the 125/250 on the "spider box" temporary power supply. Most jobs sites will have these "spider boxes" supplied with 100 amp breakers.

        The three way (last picture) is what I use to tie into the circuit.

        http://picasaweb.google.com/tjnak58/...eat=directlink

        Comment


        • #5
          Hey, good stuff there guys. I'll be able to do that piniongear, no problems. Will take a closer look at FATFAB's also.

          Piniongears plugs look like the ones on a Bobcat my cousin has, thats what I want if I'm correct. Together we can cover a lot of applications.

          But I've been pissed all day. The local supply store didn't get the 200 in today. Almost ordered one off ebay for that reason. Called Miller to try and find another around here but no luck. I'm paying sales tax by purchasing local and maybe establish a good relationship with this store. After being told it would be here today, I really expected it to be. Even been looking at some other brands. Took a day off work for a three day weekend to get this machine up and going. Now it will be next week, I hope I can get over it before Monday or they will be shipping that one back. Maybe some stick accessories would make me happy.

          Anyway, here is a video link to the power box I would like to use. It has an AC unit on it already. But I'm thinking if this is bad maybe I could just turn off the AC while I'm welding.
          http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6JdWX96y7q0

          Let me know if I should avoid this idea, Thanks

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Hardrock40 View Post
            Hey, good stuff there guys. I'll be able to do that piniongear, no problems. Will take a closer look at FATFAB's also.

            Piniongears plugs look like the ones on a Bobcat my cousin has, thats what I want if I'm correct. Together we can cover a lot of applications.

            But I've been pissed all day. The local supply store didn't get the 200 in today. Almost ordered one off ebay for that reason. Called Miller to try and find another around here but no luck. I'm paying sales tax by purchasing local and maybe establish a good relationship with this store. After being told it would be here today, I really expected it to be. Even been looking at some other brands. Took a day off work for a three day weekend to get this machine up and going. Now it will be next week, I hope I can get over it before Monday or they will be shipping that one back. Maybe some stick accessories would make me happy.

            Anyway, here is a video link to the power box I would like to use. It has an AC unit on it already. But I'm thinking if this is bad maybe I could just turn off the AC while I'm welding.
            http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6JdWX96y7q0

            Let me know if I should avoid this idea, Thanks
            Thanks for posting the video. Now that I see what you have, I have some grave reservations about using that for the welder feed.

            Here is the reason for that........
            You say this is a box for an air conditioner?
            This is a double pole 20 amp 230V circuit which is fine for the air conditioner..... or the welder, but not for both running at the same time.

            So if the air conditioner (or anything else on this circuit) will be running when you are using the Dynasty, then it will not work.
            Find another power location to hook up to.

            This 'sub box' comes from the meter box. Where is the main box for the house (or garage) located at? The box you show was installed to only run the air conditioner judging by the breaker and wire size used.

            If you have to use this location, the best thing to do is remove this box and replace it with a Square D sub box, say rated at 60 amps and having 6 or 8 breaker slots.

            You would have the cost of the new box ($35 to $45) and you will have to run new wire from the meter box to the sub box using #6 wire and buy some new breakers.

            This would safely solve the problem of getting power to both your air conditioner and the welder, as well as other things you may want to add in the future.
            Of course I am assuming the meter box is at least 100 amp service......... pg
            Dynasty 200 DX_set up on 3 phase
            Coolmate 3
            MM 251 w/ Spoolmatic 30A
            HTP 625 Micro Cut Plasma Cutter
            Victor O/A Rig
            Bridgeport Mill_3 phase (w/ Acu-Rite 4 axis DRO)
            10 inch South Bend Lathe_3 phase
            Baldor Double Cup Tool Grinder_3 phase
            Baldor 10 inch Buffer
            Rockwell 12 inch Disc Sander
            Cyclone 2ft X 3ft Bead Blast Cabinet
            Quincy 325 2stg- Air Compressor_3 phase
            Graymills Built-in Parts Washer
            Rockwell/Delta Planer, HD Shaper, Uni-Saw etc.

            Comment


            • #7
              The main box is inside the house. Not sure they are any options there.

              I like the idea of replacing it with a square D and replacing the wire coming from the meter with #6. That would seem safe and effective. Just have to call the power company and tell em I'm cutting the seal and pulling the meter I guess. I won't do it but a friend will if I can get him over here.

              Just got back from Lowes, they have everything you suggest. Was kind of funny tho. The guy working in the electrical dept. was asking a ton of questions, just being helpful and I really do appreciate that. But some of the advice wasn't on track. Like you can't use adaptors to switch from 220 to 110. I almost tried to explain.

              There is another thought that I have now since you mentioned the main panel. I had an electric water heater before I ran gas. This circuit is on the main panel inside the house. I used one leg of it to power the building outside for a few outlets and lights. What if I energized both legs and replace the breakers with 30amp? Then run the lights from the sub box at the meter outside with the AC? I would have a dedicated 220 from the main house box. Is this possible?

              Edit:
              Um, I had a look at the water heater wire, looks like 10 2. Was hard to make out but I did find a 10 and could only see a red, white and black.
              Last edited by Hardrock40; 09-25-2009, 07:58 PM. Reason: Wire size

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Hardrock40 View Post
                The main box is inside the house. Not sure they are any options there.

                I like the idea of replacing it with a square D and replacing the wire coming from the meter with #6. That would seem safe and effective. Just have to call the power company and tell em I'm cutting the seal and pulling the meter I guess. I won't do it but a friend will if I can get him over here.

                Just got back from Lowes, they have everything you suggest. Was kind of funny tho. The guy working in the electrical dept. was asking a ton of questions, just being helpful and I really do appreciate that. But some of the advice wasn't on track. Like you can't use adaptors to switch from 220 to 110. I almost tried to explain.

                There is another thought that I have now since you mentioned the main panel. I had an electric water heater before I ran gas. This circuit is on the main panel inside the house. I used one leg of it to power the building outside for a few outlets and lights. What if I energized both legs and replace the breakers with 30amp? Then run the lights from the sub box at the meter outside with the AC? I would have a dedicated 220 from the main house box. Is this possible?
                Let me wade through the thought you expressed, just so I am not missing something........
                Do you remember what the electric water pulled for amps?
                If not, no matter.
                On the main box inside the house......... it has 2 busbars inside, each is 115/120 volts.
                It will also have a bar for neutral (white wires).

                Yes, you can remove the old water heater breaker and replace it with a 30 amp (bridged, like you have in the outside box) going to the garage.
                You could even remove the bridged 20 amp breaker in that outside box and install it in the house box, providing each box is the same brand and takes the same type of breaker.
                That might be a long shot however, and you may be better off just leaving that box alone so it can power the air conditioner. So lets forget that.

                Now, here is how you connect to the box in the house........
                The new breaker will have a bridged handle connecting both breakers together. The breaker clamps onto the busbars.
                You now have both breaker terminals with a 115/120V supply coming off 2 different busbars. Together this gives you a 30 amp 220V supply going to the garage.

                Next..... I suggest you use at least a #10 wire(s) to complete this run to the garage, because it is a 30 amp circuit. Right now you probably have #12 at the most. I would change it out to a #10 AWG myself.
                \You are going to need a wire that contains 3 wires and a ground......
                Black wire, Red wire, and White wire with a ground wire.
                The Black and the Red go to the 230V circuit.
                The White is going to be the neutral running out to the garage. This neutral is needed for the light circuits only.

                When you get to the garage I would terminate these #10 wires in a sub box. From there you can install breakers as you need them and run wire to welder, lights or whatever.
                In running the light circuits etc that are 115/120V, try to keep the loads balanced off the busbars. That is to say, if you have a single 120V circuit for lights, install the breaker in the sub box anywhere you want.
                If you have a second 120V circuit though, make sure that the breaker for this is connected to the other busbar. This keeps the loads on the 2 busbars balanced.

                To sum up...... Yes, use the vacant water heater connection by replacing the breaker and wires (if required) that is already going out to the garage.
                I think this is going to be the least expensive way to provide power to your welder and also not have to call the power company or pull the meter.
                Good luck with it and keep us posted......... pg
                Dynasty 200 DX_set up on 3 phase
                Coolmate 3
                MM 251 w/ Spoolmatic 30A
                HTP 625 Micro Cut Plasma Cutter
                Victor O/A Rig
                Bridgeport Mill_3 phase (w/ Acu-Rite 4 axis DRO)
                10 inch South Bend Lathe_3 phase
                Baldor Double Cup Tool Grinder_3 phase
                Baldor 10 inch Buffer
                Rockwell 12 inch Disc Sander
                Cyclone 2ft X 3ft Bead Blast Cabinet
                Quincy 325 2stg- Air Compressor_3 phase
                Graymills Built-in Parts Washer
                Rockwell/Delta Planer, HD Shaper, Uni-Saw etc.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Edit:
                  Um, I had a look at the water heater wire, looks like 10 2. Was hard to make out but I did find a 10 and could only see a red, white and black.

                  Our messages crossed.
                  You need a 10-3 with ground .(Red, Black, White and ground) Are you sure your red, white and black does not also have a bare copper wire in the casing as well?
                  That is what you will need..... pg
                  Dynasty 200 DX_set up on 3 phase
                  Coolmate 3
                  MM 251 w/ Spoolmatic 30A
                  HTP 625 Micro Cut Plasma Cutter
                  Victor O/A Rig
                  Bridgeport Mill_3 phase (w/ Acu-Rite 4 axis DRO)
                  10 inch South Bend Lathe_3 phase
                  Baldor Double Cup Tool Grinder_3 phase
                  Baldor 10 inch Buffer
                  Rockwell 12 inch Disc Sander
                  Cyclone 2ft X 3ft Bead Blast Cabinet
                  Quincy 325 2stg- Air Compressor_3 phase
                  Graymills Built-in Parts Washer
                  Rockwell/Delta Planer, HD Shaper, Uni-Saw etc.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks piniongear, you have been a lot of help. Now I know what I have to do with some options. I like the options you have described. Just talking about it makes things clear.

                    I'm not sure about that bare copper wire in the casing, I hope it does. It was in a tight spot so I'll have to get under there and look tomorrow when its light out. If not, I'll just buy new wire and get this right the first time around.

                    I'll get back in here later on and let you know how it went.
                    Thanks again.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Hardrock40 View Post
                      Thanks piniongear, you have been a lot of help. Now I know what I have to do with some options. I like the options you have described. Just talking about it makes things clear.

                      I'm not sure about that bare copper wire in the casing, I hope it does. It was in a tight spot so I'll have to get under there and look tomorrow when its light out. If not, I'll just buy new wire and get this right the first time around.

                      I'll get back in here later on and let you know how it went.
                      Thanks again.
                      Good for you Hardrock. You are going about it the right way. Fix it once and fix it right.
                      You may find a copper ground wire in there, and I hope you do.
                      Otherwise, just replace the wire. if you do, tie a pice of nylon cord to the old wire before you pull it out. Makes it easier to pull new wire back in.
                      keep us posted and I hope your Dynasty shows up very soon.
                      You would think they have a tracking number to know where it is right now. Surely it was shipped UPS........... pg
                      Dynasty 200 DX_set up on 3 phase
                      Coolmate 3
                      MM 251 w/ Spoolmatic 30A
                      HTP 625 Micro Cut Plasma Cutter
                      Victor O/A Rig
                      Bridgeport Mill_3 phase (w/ Acu-Rite 4 axis DRO)
                      10 inch South Bend Lathe_3 phase
                      Baldor Double Cup Tool Grinder_3 phase
                      Baldor 10 inch Buffer
                      Rockwell 12 inch Disc Sander
                      Cyclone 2ft X 3ft Bead Blast Cabinet
                      Quincy 325 2stg- Air Compressor_3 phase
                      Graymills Built-in Parts Washer
                      Rockwell/Delta Planer, HD Shaper, Uni-Saw etc.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Just taking a break here. The water heater was a three wire, no bare ground.
                        I have the 30 amp double that went in there before I ran a single 20amp for some 120. and it is 10 gage. red, black hots and white N or grd.

                        Went to Lowes to check on 10 3, all they have is 250' rolls in stock. If I can find the 10 3 elsewhere, the box, breakers, plugs and wire will probably be around 200 dollars.

                        Plan F
                        use this three wire, 30 amp 10 gage circurit to supply the welder. Termanate it in a 14 50R. Put the 14 50P on the welder. I have found out my cousins Bobcat has a 14 50R. Thats why I would like to use this plug. I was thinking the Bobcat used the one in the pic but went by and found it to be a 14 50R.

                        The link to the manual, page 23

                        http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o2240z_mil.pdf

                        Shows the single phase connection useing three wires. Two hots one ground. I have two hots and one ground or netural (if they can be considered the same) in the three wire water heater line. Except,,,for one of the hots being red and the white being N, I don't see a reason it wouldn't work. Unless it's a code nono, that in case of a fire the insurance would not cover.

                        Whats your thoughts on this? another bad idea? If not, the AC sub pannel would be used to power the 120's and lights in the building.

                        For some reason I'm feeling real stupid about now and you have probably heard enough but I'll still take some advice.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Hardrock40 View Post
                          Just taking a break here. The water heater was a three wire, no bare ground.
                          I have the 30 amp double that went in there before I ran a single 20amp for some 120. and it is 10 gage. red, black hots and white N or grd.
                          The white is not for neutral or ground. It is for neutral only. The white wire gets connected to the neutral bus bar at both ends.
                          You need an additional copper wire for ground. This will ground the chassis. The ground wire gets connected to the metal box(es) on each end. In turn, the metal boxes get connected to a metal rod (preferably copper) driven at least 8 to 10 ft into the ground.


                          Went to Lowes to check on 10 3, all they have is 250' rolls in stock. If I can find the 10 3 elsewhere, the box, breakers, plugs and wire will probably be around 200 dollars.

                          I would go to an electrical supply house if you have one close by. There you can buy the wire by the foot and they will have it.

                          Plan F
                          use this three wire, 30 amp 10 gage circurit to supply the welder. Termanate it in a 14 50R. Put the 14 50P on the welder. I have found out my cousins Bobcat has a 14 50R. Thats why I would like to use this plug. I was thinking the Bobcat used the one in the pic but went by and found it to be a 14 50R.
                          Here is where there is a misunderstanding.........
                          The white wire cannot be connected as a ground (for the chassis). This is used only for a neutral.
                          However, if you want to use the wire that you have, all you need to do is run one more wire beside what you have in there.
                          Bare copper is best, but you can use any type of wire as long as it is at least a 12 AWG size and this wire will be used only as a chassis ground.
                          The hook up will be.......
                          Black wire to 14 50R terminal.
                          Red wire to the other 14 50R terminal.
                          Ground wire (we just discussed) connects to grd of 14 50R.
                          White wire connects to neutral bus bar of box.

                          The link to the manual, page 23

                          http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o2240z_mil.pdf

                          Shows the single phase connection useing three wires. Two hots one ground. I have two hots and one ground or netural (if they can be considered the same) in the three wire water heater line. Except,,,for one of the hots being red and the white being N, I don't see a reason it wouldn't work. Unless it's a code nono, that in case of a fire the insurance would not cover.
                          Well, it would work BUT........
                          You cannot have lights (115V circuit) without a neutral.
                          As I say, you cannot use a neutral as a ground wire also. Yeah, a wire is a wire, but using a white wire as a ground wire may cause someone else trouble later on when they try to connect up a neutral to what you have used for a chassis ground. So, bad idea here.
                          Whats your thoughts on this? another bad idea? If not, the AC sub pannel would be used to power the 120's and lights in the building.
                          I cannot remember if you have neutral in that box. It seems I recall you had black wires and white wires, but both served as main 115V lines to the AC. I would have to go back and look at your video, which I will do.



                          For some reason I'm feeling real stupid about now and you have probably heard enough but I'll still take some advice.
                          You certainly are not stupid, so quit thinking that.
                          I am surprised that someone has not jumped on me with both feet by now for giving electrical advice that they think violates the 'sacred code'.

                          All I care about is getting it done right and making things safe. If I can help someone with that I am more than willing to do so.
                          I still remember when I was first faced with 3 phase wiring for the first time........ I felt pretty stupid. Well, I was not as stupid as I thought I was and soon learned a few things.

                          I would suggest you still think about putting a sub box in the garage and running circuits off it for the welder and lights. I know it is more money, but in the long run you will be glad you did. I guarantee you that a couple of years down the road you will have forgotten about the extra expense of a sub box.
                          Especially when the next tool comes along that needs power.
                          pg
                          Dynasty 200 DX_set up on 3 phase
                          Coolmate 3
                          MM 251 w/ Spoolmatic 30A
                          HTP 625 Micro Cut Plasma Cutter
                          Victor O/A Rig
                          Bridgeport Mill_3 phase (w/ Acu-Rite 4 axis DRO)
                          10 inch South Bend Lathe_3 phase
                          Baldor Double Cup Tool Grinder_3 phase
                          Baldor 10 inch Buffer
                          Rockwell 12 inch Disc Sander
                          Cyclone 2ft X 3ft Bead Blast Cabinet
                          Quincy 325 2stg- Air Compressor_3 phase
                          Graymills Built-in Parts Washer
                          Rockwell/Delta Planer, HD Shaper, Uni-Saw etc.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I just went back and looked at your video. As I thought, you have a black wire and a white wire. Both wires are 115V, so you are using the white wire as a power wire.

                            The other thing you have in the box is a ground bar at the bottom. This has a couple of bare copper wires attached to it. I am betting one copper wire goes to the AC chassis and the other bare copper wire goes to a metal rod driven into the ground.
                            This is a good set up for the AC.

                            However, there is no neutral bus bar in that box so it is impossible to use it for light circuits.
                            This simplifies the matter actually. Leave this box alone and let it continue to power the air conditioner.
                            Go with a new sub box in the garage....... pg
                            Dynasty 200 DX_set up on 3 phase
                            Coolmate 3
                            MM 251 w/ Spoolmatic 30A
                            HTP 625 Micro Cut Plasma Cutter
                            Victor O/A Rig
                            Bridgeport Mill_3 phase (w/ Acu-Rite 4 axis DRO)
                            10 inch South Bend Lathe_3 phase
                            Baldor Double Cup Tool Grinder_3 phase
                            Baldor 10 inch Buffer
                            Rockwell 12 inch Disc Sander
                            Cyclone 2ft X 3ft Bead Blast Cabinet
                            Quincy 325 2stg- Air Compressor_3 phase
                            Graymills Built-in Parts Washer
                            Rockwell/Delta Planer, HD Shaper, Uni-Saw etc.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Well, your right on with that bare wire. I have one from the main meter going right into the ground.
                              The phone box has bare clamped to this, the cable box has bare to it and probably the AC, it's raining cats and dogs so I didn't spend much time there.

                              The bare would certainly explain the fourth connection on the plug. It must be what all those green screws are for I've been seeing over the years.

                              So no matter what I do, I'll need that bare wire run to the ground rod outside. This house was built in 1970 and the main panel is still the original one and I don’t think grounds were used then from the looks of my two prong 120 outlets. The sub panel would be the only thing up to today’s standards around here.


                              This is all very interesting to me. Maybe not necessary to run the welder but may help keep the big red trucks out of my driveway.

                              The sub panel is the absolute best way. I will have to put one in. But Monday, I will have the welder after I get off work. I don't think I will be able to let it sit there until I can get what I need for the sub panel. Thats a weekend job so I might run a few beads to settle me down.

                              Knowing what I know now, my lights have always been wrong in the building.

                              Now I wonder if that long burnt place under the waterbed was due to this. The cord from the waterbed heater burnt down into the wood deep, looked like a long black snake but didn’t melt through the mattress. My only warning was the bed got cold and that probably took days. Why didn’t the breaker trip? Was it due to a 3 to 2 adaptor for the wall outlet? Faulty breaker? Too high amp breaker?

                              If so, I need more than one new box in this house. And that bare ground will be installed in the 14 50R as this will be a step towards the sub panel anyway.

                              Who would have thought, buying a welder and talking to piniongear might save my butt!!!!!

                              You’ve been spending a lot of time telling me the same thing. Thanks for making your point. If you care to type anymore, I’ll sure read it.

                              Edit:
                              one more thing,
                              If I bought 10 3 for a sub panel so I'll have the bare coming from the main panel, where in the main would it connect? the 2 hots will be on breakers. The netural on the buse with all the other whites, but thats it on my main. Theres no other place in here for the bare wire. A seperate bare for the ground is the only way anyhow, Right? OK, I need to wake up, just got out of bed and had that thought.
                              Last edited by Hardrock40; 09-27-2009, 08:50 AM. Reason: One more question.

                              Comment

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