Dynasty Processes-Set Up

[4sfed]

I agree Jim that the slower rates are better but they drive my eyes nuts!

That's why the range from about 2-30 pps is no-man's land for me.

I tried it on the turntable and about .5 pps made a very nice looking weld, I didnt experiment long with that though, what I have tried with the same average current and rate of travel, but different pulse rates, the welds look identical as far as penetration goes.

I'm using it primarily on aluminum to prevent burning holes. Without the pulse, I have trouble welding .032 aluminum sheet . . . I'm putting a new body on a Lotus 7. Pulsing makes it easier for me to control the size of the keyhole. YMMV.

Thanks for the reply,

-jim

[4sfed]

thanks for the tips guys!!!!!!!!!! i have another silly question.......what about gas pressure? is there a area i should keep it for thin guage? will the pressures be different for steel vs aluminum? i know i know im still very "green" on tig welding

Technically, you're controlling the rate of gas flow (cubic feet per hour . . . CFH) not pressure, but that's a minor point. I depends on the current, type and size of nozzle and type of material. I'm using a gas lens with a #7 cup for most of my work. 10-14 CFH usually gets the job done . . . more for aluminum, less for steel.

i bought what im told is a really great machine and just want to get it all dialed in,my machine uses the thumb control if that makes any difference in technique........please feel free to school me,i love learning and respect you guys opinions! thanks again

The technique is the same whether you're using a thumb wheel or foot pedal, but I think the thumb wheel is more difficult. It's hard for me to adjust the current without dipping the tungsten. A thumbwheel also limits the way you hold the torch. Sometimes you need to be creative to reach the joint.

Have you found the Resources pages on this site?
http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...ints_tips.html
There are more links when you get to the bottom of the article.

BTW, like Pop, I see no difference with/without pulse when welding steel.

-jim

[popspipes]

That's why the range from about 2-30 pps is no-man's land for me.



I'm using it primarily on aluminum to prevent burning holes. Without the pulse, I have trouble welding .032 aluminum sheet . . . I'm putting a new body on a Lotus 7. Pulsing makes it easier for me to control the size of the keyhole. YMMV.

Thanks for the reply,

-jim

Thanks for the tip Jim! I will try the pulse on aluminum thin tube as that is a bit tricky at times for me, I just dont do enough of it to get proficient so each time its a learning experience ha!

[popspipes]

Originally Posted by earlypanels
thanks for the tips guys!!!!!!!!!! i have another silly question.......what about gas pressure? is there a area i should keep it for thin guage? will the pressures be different for steel vs aluminum? i know i know im still very "green" on tig welding


I take it you have a flow gage on your regulator, I think its calibrated in cfh rather than pressure. If you set it on say 10 it should equal 10 cfh. I believe it is actually a pressure gage that reads the pressure thru an orifice and the gage is calibrated in cfh .
I use the Smith ball and tube flowmeters on my setup, one goes to the torch the other is for the purge line used mainly for steel or stainless tube. I purge any weld that penetrates thru on the tube welds.

I use a bit more cfh on aluminum, dipping the filler disturbs the gas flow, and I found that by increasing the cfh some cured the problem I was having.

[popspipes]

double post sorry.........

[earlypanels]

thanks guys! i set up the machine at 40ppp 40 background and 40 amps,set the gas at 15................had some great results.........i also reread the instructional downloads on this site......they actually helped alot too

can i ask if setting the tungsten size programable feature will help? im not minding the thumb control,i kinda like it,my old machine had a foot pedal,but it was a cavemans tig welder

on these low amp settings is arc start sometimes iffy? i found that sometimes i had to get the tungsten really really close to get it to start.........when i did i could click the thumb setting maybe a 1/4 the way up and found that sweet spot where it looks like a mouse was welding here

my filler rod is too thick though,i took some .023 wire from my mig and used it too but it was too thin.........anyone recomend a certain type of filler rod and thickness for welding 20/19 guage mild sheetmetal? im mainly doing buttwelds with very little gap if any

[popspipes]

thanks guys! i set up the machine at 40ppp 40 background and 40 amps,set the gas at 15................had some great results.........i also reread the instructional downloads on this site......they actually helped alot too

can i ask if setting the tungsten size programable feature will help? im not minding the thumb control,i kinda like it,my old machine had a foot pedal,but it was a cavemans tig welder

on these low amp settings is arc start sometimes iffy? i found that sometimes i had to get the tungsten really really close to get it to start.........when i did i could click the thumb setting maybe a 1/4 the way up and found that sweet spot where it looks like a mouse was welding here

my filler rod is too thick though,i took some .023 wire from my mig and used it too but it was too thin.........anyone recomend a certain type of filler rod and thickness for welding 20/19 guage mild sheetmetal? im mainly doing buttwelds with very little gap if any

I set up my tungsten start for .040 and left the factory defaults for it.

The high freq on the start is sometimes iffy, other times it is fine, I think its a quirk of the machine. If it doesnt start let off the pedal completely, touch the tungsten to the work, try the start again and it will work. (a guy told me about this for the Maxstar), works with this machine too.

I use the .023 wire for filler and sometimes its too small, I am going to get a 2# roll of .030 and try that.

I do like the foot control as I would have the same problem that Jim has with the thumb wheel.

[4sfed]

I use the .023 wire for filler and sometimes its too small, I am going to get a 2# roll of .030 and try that.

My LWS has ER70 tig rod (36" straight) in .035 and .045. I'm lazy. Straightening wire is too much trouble. The only thing I have on a roll is some aluminum-bronze for repairing castings . . . because I couldn't find it in straight lengths.

thanks guys! i set up the machine at 40ppp 40 background and 40 amps,set the gas at 15................had some great results.........i also reread the instructional downloads on this site......they actually helped alot too

Pictures!?!

-jim

[popspipes]

My LWS has ER70 tig rod (36" straight) in .035 and .045. I'm lazy. Straightening wire is too much trouble. The only thing I have on a roll is some aluminum-bronze for repairing castings . . . because I couldn't find it in straight lengths.


-jim

I just use a small ammount of filler, I have a piece of 1/16" copper tube about 24" long, I feed a length into that and use it as a rod holder, works pretty well for the small stuff and takes the curl out of it.

[4sfed]

I just use a small ammount of filler, I have a piece of 1/16" copper tube about 24" long, I feed a length into that and use it as a rod holder, works pretty well for the small stuff and takes the curl out of it.

I'll have to steal that idea for myself.

Thanks,

[HAWK]

shut up noone gives a ****^

THIS IS NOT THE PLACE FOR SUCH POSTS! i THINK WE NEED TO BLOCK YOUR IP ADDRESSES AND REMOVE YOUR POSTS

[H80N]

Amen!!!

Haden
no place here for that type of garbage.. Hawk is right!!!

[ASKANDY]

Out of Here!

Banned

[Bob Miller]

Cheat Sheet/ Quick Reference Guide

Andy, If there is not going to be a Dynasty 200 book in the near future, how about a Cheat Sheet/Quick Reference Guide.
You know something that says what all the buttons do, and how to get into the hidden menu and stuff like that.
I was thinking of doing something like that and laminate it, so you can store it under the welder.
But it would be better if you did it.
Good Luck,
Bob

[captkipp]

New Dynasty 350 !!

Wow! After all these years with the transformer machines. The new Miller Dynasty 350 has come to live at my shop. I've discovered, actually rediscovered, how steep the learning curve can be.

Would one of you more learned spark makers please explain the Amp-EN-EP-Balance interaction to me?

Seems as though when I set an amp choice in, the machine is adjusting the EN-EP levels according to the Balance setting. If I adjust the EP or EN numbers I can manually change this relationship.

Is the Balance adjustment actually setting the relationship of the En-EP settings by causing the EN setting to become greater or less, and thereby change the difference and percentage in relation to the EP settings? I find currently that I'm about 75% on the Balance settings. Suggestions?

Is the dialed in AMP setting an AVERAGE of the EN-EP settings according to the BALANCE setting?

What I'm looking for is the "Sweet Spot" for anodized aluminum, which is 75-80 percent of my work load. My old transformer machine was around 175-180 with the balance knob set on "Balanced" for most anodized pipe and plate. Thicker stuff than the typical sched. 40 pipe and 1/4" plate required more heat of course. I just seem to be struggling a bit with this amp relationship thing. Mostly cause I don't really understand the interaction between the settings and the associated adjustments and what they can actually cause in the weldment and its appearance.

Thanks in advance.