Dynasty Processes-Set Up

[Leefy]

Mike

Don't know on your machine but on the dynasty 350 you go to the advanced function portion, press the dig button till you get to spot, turn encoder to spot on, then exit out of advanced functions, press the amperage button twice to see spot on time and turn encoder to set the time. I kept missing the press amperage button twice and could not get anything to work.

Hope it helps with your welder.

Leefy

[piniongear]

I am trying out the spot function, I cant seem to be able to set the spot time, it seems to be fixed at about one second??
I would like to go below one second if possible. I dont see anything in the manual about changing the length of time while in spot mode.
Anyone have any input on this?

Pops.....
I too want the same information, so I will be watching this thread.

I can set the Spot function OK. I cannot even get the Spot signal to show up again after I shut off and then restart the machine, much less have the 1 second default time appear anywhere.

All I get is the amperage setting by turning the encoder button. The 'S' light never turns on.
I am sure I am missing something simple, but I can read, and it does not work for me either....... pg

[popspipes]

On mine when set to the spot function it will show spot on the readout when turning the machine on, the only thing thats variable are the amps unless I am missing something??
It says a "timed" function, but no provision to set the time??

[piniongear]

Popspipes......
OK, I think I got it. Let me see if I can give the steps required to get to Spot Times:
1) Set the machine to 2T and adjust to Spot under 'Advanced Functions-section 6.'
2) Turn off the machine to retain the Spot setting.
3) Start the machine. The light at PMT 2T should be bright. If it is not on, then press the 'Output' key one tome to light it up.
4) Now go and press the Amperage Key (A) one time and the reading should be 1.0 (this is 1 second)
Turn the encoder knob to increase or decrease the time setting.

What I did not see in the instruction was to push the A key to gain the reading and setting of the time interval. I am sure that is in there somewhere, but it takes me a while to get it...... pg

[Broccoli1]

Section 6.6

Turn Encoder control to turn Spot
on and off. Once on, exit set-up and
press Amperage control switch pad
twice and turn Encoder control to
set spot time. The spot time default
is zero for each program. Spot Enable
works in RMT STD and RMT
2T Hold only. When a foot control is
connected, amperage is controlled
at the machine, not by a remote
control.

[piniongear]

Yes, I found the instruction to press the A key in Section 5 pg 31 of my manual.
The first time you press A you can set the amperage setting of the spot (I thought I had already done that in Section 6)

A second press of the A key gets you to the time setting. Not rotate the encoder knob and watch the times change!

It's simple if you can read carefully enough, which I am obviously not too capable of doing. ...
pg

[popspipes]

Section 6.6

Turn Encoder control to turn Spot
on and off. Once on, exit set-up and
press Amperage control switch pad
twice and turn Encoder control to
set spot time. The spot time default
is zero for each program. Spot Enable
works in RMT STD and RMT
2T Hold only. When a foot control is
connected, amperage is controlled
at the machine, not by a remote
control.

Thanks Ed, it works like a champ, I guess I just needed to do more reading!

[popspipes]

Yes, I found the instruction to press the A key in Section 5 pg 31 of my manual.
The first time you press A you can set the amperage setting of the spot (I thought I had already done that in Section 6)

A second press of the A key gets you to the time setting. Not rotate the encoder knob and watch the times change!

It's simple if you can read carefully enough, which I am obviously not too capable of doing. ...
pg

I have an excuse, I am old guy ha!!

[Broccoli1]

Your Mom was right- Vegetables are good for you

[popspipes]

Mike

Don't know on your machine but on the dynasty 350 you go to the advanced function portion, press the dig button till you get to spot, turn encoder to spot on, then exit out of advanced functions, press the amperage button twice to see spot on time and turn encoder to set the time. I kept missing the press amperage button twice and could not get anything to work.

Hope it helps with your welder.

Leefy

I think the time setting should be included in the set up instruction. I tried it out on two .020 clamped together, did a nice repeatable job 110 amps for .3 seconds on my 200 dynasty.
There cant be any gap between the materials either or it wont work right.

That would do a job on that handle you were talking about in an earlier post.....

[Ultrachop]

Great Thread!!

A newbie here (retired) or should I say just plain tired! I too have found "manual" reading and then doing very difficult, especially the hidden menus! This board has been a Godsend and I have had nothing but good service from Miller techs.. and the humble experts on the board.

As for me when I get stumped I first ask my Wife (younger then me) to read it for me (LOL) and then I go practice, I now know why those teachers used to say "ok class lets READ IT AGAIN" now if I can just remember where I put the manual (or what fricking MS Windows folder I put the .pdf in??--dang it where are my glasses??? HONEY HAVE YOU SEEN MY GLASSES???

Sorry for rambling instead of postin a serious request or settings

Tim

[popspipes]

dynasty 200 dx

anyone have any input on the pulse feature? I have tried it on the turntable with the settings the dairy welder gave me and DC, if the average current on pulse equals the current setting on DC I cant tell any difference in the weld on .0625 stainless tube?
I have noticed it is noisier and the tungsten point lasts longer on very low current settings.

Someone jump in and tell me what I am doing wrong or not doing that I should etc...??

According to that refrigerator door article it was a lifesaver to them, maybe I am using too thick material for it to make a real difference??

The spot weld function is neat, I will just have to figure out something I can use it for.

[Miller J. Ryan]

Pulsing

Popspipes,

I noticed it has been a couple days without a reply so I thought I would offer my two cents concerning pulse. Fair warning, I am not a weld engineer, but wanted offer my point of view anyway.

First off, I'm not sure if we have done a good enough job explaining what is changing when you adjust the pulse parameters. Here is a rough guide:

PPS = Pulses per second. This is basically the number of cycles that your machine will go from high amperage to low amperage in one second. This is also called Hertz

PEAK t = Peak Time. This is the percent of time the machine spends in the high amperage portion of the pulse cycle. If you set this at 60%, you will spend 60% of each pulse cycle at your peak amperage (which is set at your main amperage control)

BKGND A = Background Amperage. This is controling the amperage of the low portion of the pulse cycle as a percent of the peak amperage. Lets say you have your main amperage control (peak) set at 100 amps, and your BKGND A at 50%, your background amperage will be 50 amps.

Judging by your comment of figuring out the average amperage, you are familiar with what you are adjusting so lets move on.

Depending on what you want to accomplish with the pulse feature there are two basic methods of setting up your machine.

If bead appearance (ripple pattern) is what you are interested in, I would suggest using a slow pulse parameter 2-5 PPS. This helps me time my filler metal dipping for that consistant ripple. Sometimes I am able to lay the filler in front of the puddle on the low portion of the pulse cycle and let the high portion of the pulse cycle expand the weld puddle to wick in the filler for me.

I vary Peak Time percentage based on penetration and material thickness. The thicker the material the greater the peak time, but generally I stay between 40% and 60% (more often than not closer to 60%).

I vary the BKGND A based on how fast I want to move. The higher the setting the faster I can move while maintaining a decent weld (I say decent, because ... well, I'm just not that good). Again, I start between 40% and 60%, but more often than not closer to the 40%

The other basic method is high speed pulse (150 - 200 PPS). This can be useful for reducing heat affected zone and increasing travel speeds by creating a narrower/more focused arc cone which is a result of the higher speed pulse.

You may need to start out with a slightly higher Peak Time (60-70%), or slightly higher BKGND A (50-60%) to get a good puddle formed.

If you are not adding filler, you may see some really good results from higher speed pulse, but if you are adding filler do so like you normally would, or use the "lay wire" technique.

Again, these are only starting points.

Anyway, there are my two cents. I encourage others to add theirs'.

As always, thank you for support of Miller and have a good day.

[Broccoli1]

anyone have any input on the pulse feature? I have tried it on the turntable with the settings the dairy welder gave me and DC, if the average current on pulse equals the current setting on DC I cant tell any difference in the weld on .0625 stainless tube?
I have noticed it is noisier and the tungsten point lasts longer on very low current settings.

Someone jump in and tell me what I am doing wrong or not doing that I should etc...??

According to that refrigerator door article it was a lifesaver to them, maybe I am using too thick material for it to make a real difference??

The spot weld function is neat, I will just have to figure out something I can use it for.

here's another article

http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/articles/High-Speed-Pulsed-DC-TIG-Welding-Increases-Productivity/

[popspipes]

here's another article

http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...-Productivity/

Thanks Ed, I read the article, and I need to try again at higher pulse rates, I dont do stainless anymore other than showing my grandson how tig works etc.
I think it will be benificial on these thin gage carbon steel pipes, I will go back to the higher frequency pulse and with the info from the last article, I may have a better idea of what to look for etc.

Its hard to teach an old dog a new trick, but I am going to give it my best shot!!