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  • cst280 wiring

    Hello, I bought a cst280 used a while back and now I am trying to wire it. I am a noob when it comes to electricity so I followed the wiring diagram for LS1 to black, LS2 to white and LS3 to red. But I am getting no power at the unit. I looked through the trouble shooting guide in the owners guide, and it stated that the if the green LED is not lit up there is no power to unit, so checked the breakers which were fine, checked the input voltage selector and it was on the 220 1phase setting, I checked the process selector to make sure it was correctly set and now I am out of problem solving ideas. So I am assuming it is the wiring, any help would be great, thanks,

    Kyle

    Here is the owners manual:
    http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o217655l_mil.pdf

    and below is how I have it set up.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    For single phase and for that plug, do not use the white. Hook the black and red to the LS1 and LS2. Tape off the white so it doesn't touch anything. Green or bare is still chassis ground, of course.


    Why is the red thicker? Is it taped and used to be a different color? Is that a molded-in-place plug or did you assemble it onto a piece of SO cord?

    You should have a voltmeter. Cheap tool. Check, and I'm thinking you have 120V between black or red and the white, and 240V between black and red if that plug is being used in its designed configuration.
    Last edited by MAC702; 06-27-2009, 02:42 PM.

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    • #3
      It is a molded plug and the red wire is the same size, just in the foreground a bit which is making it look a little bigger. I do have a multimeter but I am paranoid that I will blow the works up Thanks for the help, I will try it shortly and let you know how I make out.

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      • #4
        The Red and Black are defiantly 240v. I removed the white wire and wrapped it, then tried it, with no luck and I also tried placing the red wire where the white wire is and still no luck.

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        • #5
          Breaker Button

          Originally posted by rhok View Post
          The Red and Black are defiantly 240v. I removed the white wire and wrapped it, then tried it, with no luck and I also tried placing the red wire where the white wire is and still no luck.
          Does the machine have a circit breaker maybe like a white button.??
          Bob

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          • #6
            I found full resistance (O/L) across the buss fuse, so that must be the problem. Time to find a new one

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            • #7
              Keep us posted!

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              • #8
                Originally posted by rhok View Post
                It is a molded plug and the red wire is the same size, just in the foreground a bit which is making it look a little bigger. I do have a multimeter but I am paranoid that I will blow the works up Thanks for the help, I will try it shortly and let you know how I make out.
                That is a 14-50 Plug 120v/240v and the white Wire should never have been connected- wonder if it caused any damage since the White wire on that cord is the Neutral for the 120v side in the cord. ????

                Looking at the wiring schem Left to right
                G, L3, L2, L1

                G,
                L3(not used for 1-phase)
                L2(on the cord you used either Black or Red wire)
                L1(on the cord you used either Black or Red wire)

                On the 14-50 Cord you used The White wire is NOT to be connected for 240v applications like Welders.
                Ed Conley
                http://www.screamingbroccoli.net/
                MM252
                MM211
                Passport Plus w/Spool Gun
                TA185
                Miller 125c Plasma 120v
                O/A set
                SO 2020 Bender
                You can call me Bacchus

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by rhok View Post
                  I found full resistance (O/L) across the buss fuse, so that must be the problem. Time to find a new one
                  If you found resistance across the fuse, then it's not bad. If it were blown, you wouldn't show any resistance.

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                  • #10
                    Blown would read O/L for Overload, as he said, and what he meant by "full". 'Not showing any resistance' would be 0 Ohms, or a good fuse. He was correct.

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                    • #11
                      In my book OL is the abbreviation for Open Line, which far better describes the actual measurement.

                      The term "Overload" does not describe the situation.

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                      • #12
                        Mac - You're positively correct. I either read too fast or had a senior dyslexic moment. Don't know what I was thinking. Sorry, I'll slow down next time before responding.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by GTA/SPEC View Post
                          In my book OL is the abbreviation for Open Line, which far better describes the actual measurement.

                          The term "Overload" does not describe the situation.
                          I'd buy that! I honestly never thought about it... Makes sense, though!

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by GTA/SPEC View Post
                            In my book OL is the abbreviation for Open Line, which far better describes the actual measurement.

                            The term "Overload" does not describe the situation.
                            How about "out of luck" as in SOL?

                            http://www.abbreviations.com/abbreviations/OL/1

                            Obsidion Legionnares
                            Office Ladies
                            Office Lady
                            On Line
                            Open Loop
                            Operating Location
                            Ordered List
                            Overlay
                            Millermatic Passport Plus
                            Millermatic 200

                            Millermatic 350P with Python
                            XMT 304 /w S-64 feeder and 12VS
                            Dynasty 300 DX
                            Thermal Arc 400 MST
                            Victor O/A
                            Premier Power Welder for my trail junk.

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                            • #15
                              Hard to tell from the picture, but it seems like the ground wire is solid? Did you use building wire (3 wire with ground) or cord ( SO, SOOW, ... )?
                              I have a CST 280. It came from Miller with A 10-4 SOOW cord that was not terminated. It had black, red, white and green. Black and white were connected to L1 and L2. Red was connected to L3. Green was of course connected to ground.
                              The manual advised taping off red when wiring 240 volt single phase. The two hots were connected to black and white. Green to ground.
                              With your NEMA 14-50 plug the two parallel "hots" should be connected to L1 and L2 Neutral should not be used ( The blade opposite the round Ground plug). Ground to ground of course.
                              If that is not a molded on plug you may have connected red and black to the two "hots", white to the neutral blade and green to the round ground plug.
                              RonL

                              Big Blue 500 CC/CV
                              CST 280
                              Hypertherm Powermax 1650
                              Suitcase 12 RC
                              24A Feeder

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