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Welding through rust,etc tips?!?!

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  • Welding through rust,etc tips?!?!

    I am going to be working on a ranch this summer repairing fencing panels and old machinery. Does anyone have any tips on welding through paint, rust, cow crap, etc? Thanks for the help folks!

  • #2
    Use a grinder first, prep work it the key to any good weld.
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    • #3
      get use to 6011 the farmers rod burns throu anything.

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      • #4
        Or 6010. Burns through it all
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        • #5
          "Rust, Paint, & Moo"

          Originally posted by RTCmiller View Post
          I am going to be working on a ranch this summer repairing fencing panels and old machinery. Does anyone have any tips on welding through paint, rust, cow crap, etc? Thanks for the help folks!
          If you have a DC machine, either 6010 (5P) or 6011. Clean as good as possible, though, especially the crap

          Dave
          "Bonne journe'e mes amis"

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          • #6
            I guess I should tell u...

            The dirtier the matariel the more slag, and sparks u are going to get. When u burn through paint, rust etc, that burning contimnation goes some where. So remember, ware a good welding jacket and thick gloves. If not u are going to ge very good at rubbing cream on many deep little burns. Or u will end up catching fire!!! 6010-6011 rod use it as a filler, then cap it with 7018.
            Kevin
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            • #7
              cheap wire brush will help.

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              • #8
                5p.............
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                • #9
                  6010 vs 6011 BOTH ARE WINNERS

                  With my machine I would use 6010 of course that is a DC rod. Now on the other side of the coin you have 6011 that can be used on DC or AC . I you don't know what machine you will be using 6011 is your best bet. have some in 3/32nds and 1/8" . and like the others have said clean off the work at least of the loose stuff.. You will do fine.... Bob

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                  • #10
                    There is no rod that welds through paint, **** or rust. Clean up the metal first. Then weld.

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                    • #11
                      Clean the surface good keep 6011's handy and know where all the fire suppression equipment is. Where I work at building house boats I usually keep a couple small fire extinguishers on my creeper when I'm welding up the keels and botom hull. I usually set my pants on fire two or three times a week (gotta love the uniform company, no complaints in 5 years with this company). Fire extinguishers are your freinds.

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                      • #12
                        3/32", 1/8", and 5/32" rods.

                        6010 seems to run a little nicer but the big box retailers like TSC, Home Depot, or Lowes don't carry it. They carry 6011 as the cheapo machines they sell are usually AC only. Some small cheapo DC machines have such low open circuit voltage on DC 6010 rods don't work very well. With 6010 the welds are almost flat and undercut seems to be more of a problem than 7018.

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                        • #13
                          rust

                          ive worked on alot of rusty stuff, if you can do this "safetly", i will use a cutting torch and an old big flat screwdriver, heat the rusty areas, just enough to slightly expand the rust then scrape or tap it off, rust holds in the moisture so by heating it, the water boils and lifts it so slightly, many other welders suggested 6011, i use alot of it for repair, i have had good luck with 3/32, better off running a small rod hot that a bigger rod cold. wear eye protection, rust pops off, be very careful where you place the flame, a slightly oxidizing flame works best, you are just prepping for a weld so dont get carried away, watch the heat. good luck

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