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Welding heavy steel with stick or mig welder

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  • #16
    Bert... I worked on a major remodel of the tripler in the 80's....Ferdinand Marcos was holed up there at the time...We had to go thru security checks to get on the job site!

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    • #17
      Originally posted by bayweld View Post
      Bert... I worked on a major remodel of the tripler in the 80's....Ferdinand Marcos was holed up there at the time...We had to go thru security checks to get on the job site!
      Well, believe me, nothing's changed, 'cept more traffic and the housing prices have come down since last year...Now instead of my dad's house going for $750,000, it's down to $650,000. Maybe in a 1,000 years, I can afford my own!!!
      I'm not late...
      I'm just on Hawaiian Time

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      • #18
        "The Dirt On It"

        Originally posted by chris_8126 View Post
        I guess I should have explained more clearly. I'm not quit sure of the thickness because I am still trying to find a blade to use. I found an old road grader blade that is 5/8" thick and I was looking for an old angle dozer blade. The blade of either is 12' wide and hopefully when I'm done the box scraper will move around 4 yards of dirt. If I had it finished now I would be using it to move sand that the river washed out across the field we farm. Lots of uses for one around the farm and we have several tractors 200+ hp to pull it. We have some old field cultivators that we don't use anymore I'm going to get other parts from. Here are a couple links showing an example.


        http://mancomanufacturing.com/bpm_8010.htm
        Okay Chris, now I see your intentions. Is your Thunderbolt A/C only, or is it the AC-DC model?

        Dave
        "Bonne journe'e mes amis"

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Bert
          Personally I would stick it with 6011 then make passes after that with 7018.
          Mig should be fine, up to you.
          Practice with the mig, for layering/pad build up is the same. I find circles with my mig looks nicer.
          Got any pics? How thick is the handle? Regular sch 40 pipe?
          Good luck, and practice,practice practice...
          Originally posted by Bert View Post
          WELCOME TO THE FORUM!!!!!!!!
          Both should work good for you.
          What are you using for a handle? Sched 40 pipe??
          Got any pics???

          Personally, I'd stick it with 6011, then make passes over it with 7018.
          Multi-passes/pad build-up same thing. Practice, practice, practice. Do you
          have scrap of those thicknesses you can practice to join together???

          WE ALL LOVE PICS HERE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
          uhm whats going on here? do you have mutable personality's?
          Dylan

          RED BIRD WELDING

          "Experience is simply the name we give our mistakes"

          HH-140
          Crappy stick welder
          Victor supper range II
          Makita grinder
          more stuff i don't feel like listing.

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          • #20
            ".045 nr-232?"

            Originally posted by bretsk2500 View Post
            If it was me, I'd either stick it w/ 5/32 7018 @160+ amps, or get some .045 NR232 and test out the duty cycle of the MM210. 6011 wouldn't come any where near it.
            Might want to double-check your resources, .068, .072, 5/64" are the only sizes available in my Lincoln book.

            There's certainly nothing wrong with E-6011's, those that complain about them, generally don't know how to use them.
            "Bonne journe'e mes amis"

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            • #21
              Originally posted by davedarragh View Post
              Might want to double-check your resources, .068, .072, 5/64" are the only sizes available in my Lincoln book.

              There's certainly nothing wrong with E-6011's, those that complain about them, generally don't know how to use them.
              No, there's nothing wrong with 6011, but they shouldn't be used on anything that's going to receive a lot of impacts. That scraper is going to see a LOT of impact loads.
              Bobcat 225NT
              Cutmaster 52
              Lincoln Weld-Pak 100 buzz box
              Caterpillar TH63
              '07 Kawasaki ZZR600

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              • #22
                Originally posted by migwelder05 View Post
                uhm whats going on here? do you have mutable personality's?
                I'm not late...
                I'm just on Hawaiian Time

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Bert View Post
                  Well, believe me, nothing's changed, 'cept more traffic and the housing prices have come down since last year...Now instead of my dad's house going for $750,000, it's down to $650,000. Maybe in a 1,000 years, I can afford my own!!!
                  WOW! Prices down there are EXPENSIVE!! I'm looking into and just got my loan approval for my first house. It's got 3 acres, three machine sheds with the 40'x80' shop converted into a welding shop. The house is 4 BR and full basement w/2 baths. Lookin to get it for between 45-55K. You should definately move inland lol
                  sigpic
                  Miller Trailblazer 302
                  Smith Torch Outfit
                  Lots of Grinders
                  Miller Elite Autodark Hood
                  O'l Trusty Jackson

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by welderdude402 View Post
                    WOW! Prices down there are EXPENSIVE!! I'm looking into and just got my loan approval for my first house. It's got 3 acres, three machine sheds with the 40'x80' shop converted into a welding shop. The house is 4 BR and full basement w/2 baths. Lookin to get it for between 45-55K. You should definately move inland lol
                    YOU SUCK!!!!!!!

                    yeah, dad bought his house for $19,000 in 1963. With Obama's plan, should be "worth" about $4 million soon!!!!!!!!!
                    I"m sure your house is nicer too!!!!!!!!!
                    I'm not late...
                    I'm just on Hawaiian Time

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                    • #25
                      eh your tricking me now? you HAD two of pretty much the some post right in a row

                      AH i must be spending to much time in the dark.
                      Dylan

                      RED BIRD WELDING

                      "Experience is simply the name we give our mistakes"

                      HH-140
                      Crappy stick welder
                      Victor supper range II
                      Makita grinder
                      more stuff i don't feel like listing.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by migwelder05 View Post
                        eh your tricking me now? you HAD two of pretty much the some post right in a row

                        AH i must be spending to much time in the dark.
                        and what else are you doing in the dark???!!!!!!
                        It's the POWER OF THE DELETE BUTTON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
                        I"ve been going to bed between 2-4am every morning this week.
                        Must have been a little blurry myself
                        So no, wasn't you
                        I'm not late...
                        I'm just on Hawaiian Time

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                        • #27
                          I have a Thunderbolt xl 300/200 ac/dc. I weld on dc 99% of the time. I guess I just didn't know if the mig would be enough welder to burn in deep. I would say the pieces will be 1/2" to 3/4". I'm pretty sure we use 1/8" 6011 rods for most deep penetration on rusty metal here on the farm. I have made some repairs with a 6011 pass followed by two 7018 passes of the same size. Should I bevel one piece when butting it up to the other to get a deeper weld. Thanks for all the help!

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by chris_8126 View Post
                            I have a Thunderbolt xl 300/200 ac/dc. I weld on dc 99% of the time. I guess I just didn't know if the mig would be enough welder to burn in deep. I would say the pieces will be 1/2" to 3/4". I'm pretty sure we use 1/8" 6011 rods for most deep penetration on rusty metal here on the farm. I have made some repairs with a 6011 pass followed by two 7018 passes of the same size. Should I bevel one piece when butting it up to the other to get a deeper weld. Thanks for all the help!
                            Depending on the configuration, you bevel one piece, or double-bevel it, or bevel both pieces. either way, it's too thick NOT to bevel it!! You won't get 100% penetration if you don't bevel.....
                            Got some mock up pieces to show us??
                            I'm not late...
                            I'm just on Hawaiian Time

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by Bert View Post
                              Depending on the configuration, you bevel one piece, or double-bevel it, or bevel both pieces. either way, it's too thick NOT to bevel it!! You won't get 100% penetration if you don't bevel.....
                              Got some mock up pieces to show us??
                              yup, joint prep is the key.
                              Bobcat 225NT
                              Cutmaster 52
                              Lincoln Weld-Pak 100 buzz box
                              Caterpillar TH63
                              '07 Kawasaki ZZR600

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                              • #30
                                Very Good Point: bretsk2500

                                Originally posted by bretsk2500 View Post
                                No, there's nothing wrong with 6011, but they shouldn't be used on anything that's going to receive a lot of impacts. That scraper is going to see a LOT of impact loads.
                                My apologies if it seemed I was inferring you didn't know how to use 6011's. There was a post here a while back, someone was complaining about their results. You're absolutely correct about the impact values. Excaliburs or the "good" Hobarts (7018's) are the rod to use here.

                                chris: Glad to hear you have the "real" Thunderbolt. Watch your duty cycle, though, with 5/32 7018's you'll be running toward the "top" of the DC+ current range. If you have a plasma, and a steady hand, making those bevels is a lot easier (or cutting torch).

                                With good joinery and fit-ups, I'm sure we'll be seeing pictures of your "chriscavator" in action.


                                Keep us posted of your progress.

                                Dave
                                "Bonne journe'e mes amis"

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