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econotig no weld tig or stick

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  • Jake SS
    replied
    My take on it is that I don't think the repair people want you to know this info as it would be a loss of easy business for them
    It is not that simple!
    Do you expect to walk into a service centre and tell the guy what your machine is doing, then for him to give you a list of parts for you to go and buy elsewhere and fit yourself and maybe kill yourself in the process!!!!
    The guy would end up in jail!
    Lot more to it to diagnose a PCB and its faults

    He has a business to run

    You want something for nothing and whinge when you dont get it

    How many hours did you spend to save yourself a few bucks?

    The sad thing is that there are a lot of IDIOTS like you that we would be far better off without !!!!!

    Jake

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  • cruizer
    replied
    Originally posted by roberto View Post
    I have an econotig model 903367 I bought it used I have never been able to get it to weld properly. I have used a freinds econotig and can weld both tig or stick, so I brought my welder to my freinds house pluged in to his 220 outlet so I know I have plenty of input power, when we use my pedal or his it will arc but there is no change in power output. can not get a puddle on steel 1/16 or 1/8 inch so we tried the stick, once again it will arc but will not puddle. NEED HELP his welder hooked up with my pedal and torch works fine. I changed 14 pin pedals thinking that it was bad but no change in sound of arc when pedal is pressed from start all the way to full pedal. the pedal or dial seem to not make a differance.
    The hall is whacked, find it order a new one and all will be fine.

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  • Danielson3
    replied
    Problem Fixed

    I found an old thread of someone who had a similar problem and he published that the shunt winding control circuit was the problem. He replaced all main components in that circuit for under $20. So I thought I would try that route. After discussing this with the EE, the SCR and the FET seemed to be the most likely culprits. There was also an opto coupler that may cause some trouble. So I bought the three new items for Q13, Q11 and OC2 from Digikey (Digikey part #'s S8055MTP, 1RG4PC4OUPBF, TLP748J) for under $20. The conformal coating is a drag, but problem fixed; and for a lot less than $300. It appears that the SCR (item Q13) was most likely the problem component. If you know what to look for, and are confident around electronics, you might want to try it for $18 before you buy a new card. I see this question a lot on many boards so it must be a fairly common problem with a common fix. My take on it is that I don't think the repair people want you to know this info as it would be a loss of easy business for them. Good luck.

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  • Danielson3
    replied
    It's just really lacking power and the foot pedal does not change intensity. The unit will arc but will not puddle. I was able to weld some steel that was .040 thick using a stick and a very slow motion. Should have burned through it. I talked with my local welder and he thought it was missing the high freq. I don't know if this helps. Thanks much for your replies.

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  • cruizer
    replied
    Kinda have to know exactly what it's doing after you turn the switch to on

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  • Danielson3
    replied
    I realize the difficulties in diagnosing the board and I didn't mean to imply it is an easy thing to fix. I have an EE that works for me and he can deal with the specifics but it would be helpful if he had a direction to look. This seems to be a common problem so I would assume that someone knows where the boards typically fail. What are the common components that fail. For what they charge to diagnose and fix, I can almost buy every component on the board and replace twice over. Any insight would be helpful. Thanks

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  • cruizer
    replied
    Well, tough to repair on your own, I've got ohhh about 10Grand in board testing and repair equipment and thats nothing to others that repair boards full time.

    Send the board out for repair is your best bet, sure the parts to repair it are cheap, but the know how to trace and repair is a whole other field. Just cause you can't see the damage visually desn't mean its not there. I have to use a microscope generally then trace what caused that problem to occur. That takes around an hour to a couple hours. Then you need the specialized solder and desolding tools.

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  • Danielson3
    replied
    I have the same issue with my Econotig

    I have the exact same issue with my Econotig. I sent it to my local welding repair shop and they diagnosed it to be a problem with the circuit board. I have been reading on the forum of some people that have fixed theirs for about $20. I see nothing visually wrong with the board. Nothing is discolored, popped cap, etc. Is there anybody out there that knows what typically goes on the board? If you have any further information, please post.

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  • gda
    replied
    At the top of this very web page there is a "contact us" tab. Call the number and ask for technical assistance.

    Your local supplier is not the miller corperation. They get nothing by helping you unless you pay them.

    Board will be around $435 - if the machine is smoked it's not worth fixing.

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  • cruizer
    replied
    Check the 2 amp fuse on the control board first.

    The control board is #165872 and it'll cost anywhere from $337 to $488.70.

    Leave a comment:


  • roberto
    replied
    well I spoke with local miller repair facility and they did not want to help they just wanted a diagnostic fee. I tried to get a price on a board but they would not give the price. anyone know what the miller tech line phone number if I could get a diagram on the board i can trouble shoot.

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  • cruizer
    replied
    Check your diode rectifier, You may have some open pucks, if not then your arc/start/control board is likely pooched.

    You' ll have to idolate the rectifier from the rest of the circuit and use a diode tester if you have one. Usually the copper straps to each puck will be blown off though, and you can see that visually.

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  • weldersales
    replied
    Econotig

    Most likely it is the PC board. After you run your traps discussed above and if you determine the board is probably at fault, if you like send the board here and we will run it for you in a known good Econotig. Depending on results, we can then make recommendations. weldersales

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  • gda
    replied
    the dial on the front sets the maximum amount that the petal will output. So if it is not working properly it can affect tig and stick (either too low - or too high). I don't know your troubleshooting level - but you can take off the wrapper and check the pot with a multimeter. You can do that with no power on your system.

    Miller will e-mail you the service manual for the machine.
    Last edited by gda; 03-23-2009, 09:39 PM.

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  • roberto
    replied
    The serial# is kd539997 we did try with the function switch set to stick taking the remote out of the loop no luck. if the dial did not work wouldn't the stick still work??? I am not sure so any info would be great. thanks for all the replies I am going to call miller in the morning if not resolved. Thanks Again

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