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econotig no weld tig or stick

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  • econotig no weld tig or stick

    I have an econotig model 903367 I bought it used I have never been able to get it to weld properly. I have used a freinds econotig and can weld both tig or stick, so I brought my welder to my freinds house pluged in to his 220 outlet so I know I have plenty of input power, when we use my pedal or his it will arc but there is no change in power output. can not get a puddle on steel 1/16 or 1/8 inch so we tried the stick, once again it will arc but will not puddle. NEED HELP his welder hooked up with my pedal and torch works fine. I changed 14 pin pedals thinking that it was bad but no change in sound of arc when pedal is pressed from start all the way to full pedal. the pedal or dial seem to not make a differance.

  • #2
    I need the serial# not the model #

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    • #3
      have you tried it with the function switch set to stick taking the remote out of the loop?
      This would confirm or eliminate the remote circuit.
      Miller Syncrowave 200 W/Radiator 1A & water cooled torch
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      Over 20 years as a Machinist Toolmaker
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      www.KLStottlemyer.com

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      • #4
        sounds like either the dial potentiometer on the front is bad, or something in the board. Call the miller technical service line. they will help you troubleshoot to a point.
        Miller Econotig
        Hypertherm 380 Plasma
        Hobart LX235 AC/DC Stick
        Lenco Spot
        Dan-Mig 5000

        O/A Smith rig

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        • #5
          The serial# is kd539997 we did try with the function switch set to stick taking the remote out of the loop no luck. if the dial did not work wouldn't the stick still work??? I am not sure so any info would be great. thanks for all the replies I am going to call miller in the morning if not resolved. Thanks Again

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          • #6
            the dial on the front sets the maximum amount that the petal will output. So if it is not working properly it can affect tig and stick (either too low - or too high). I don't know your troubleshooting level - but you can take off the wrapper and check the pot with a multimeter. You can do that with no power on your system.

            Miller will e-mail you the service manual for the machine.
            Last edited by gda; 03-23-2009, 09:39 PM.
            Miller Econotig
            Hypertherm 380 Plasma
            Hobart LX235 AC/DC Stick
            Lenco Spot
            Dan-Mig 5000

            O/A Smith rig

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            • #7
              Econotig

              Most likely it is the PC board. After you run your traps discussed above and if you determine the board is probably at fault, if you like send the board here and we will run it for you in a known good Econotig. Depending on results, we can then make recommendations. weldersales

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              • #8
                Check your diode rectifier, You may have some open pucks, if not then your arc/start/control board is likely pooched.

                You' ll have to idolate the rectifier from the rest of the circuit and use a diode tester if you have one. Usually the copper straps to each puck will be blown off though, and you can see that visually.

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                • #9
                  well I spoke with local miller repair facility and they did not want to help they just wanted a diagnostic fee. I tried to get a price on a board but they would not give the price. anyone know what the miller tech line phone number if I could get a diagram on the board i can trouble shoot.

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                  • #10
                    Check the 2 amp fuse on the control board first.

                    The control board is #165872 and it'll cost anywhere from $337 to $488.70.

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                    • #11
                      At the top of this very web page there is a "contact us" tab. Call the number and ask for technical assistance.

                      Your local supplier is not the miller corperation. They get nothing by helping you unless you pay them.

                      Board will be around $435 - if the machine is smoked it's not worth fixing.
                      Miller Econotig
                      Hypertherm 380 Plasma
                      Hobart LX235 AC/DC Stick
                      Lenco Spot
                      Dan-Mig 5000

                      O/A Smith rig

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                      • #12
                        I have the same issue with my Econotig

                        I have the exact same issue with my Econotig. I sent it to my local welding repair shop and they diagnosed it to be a problem with the circuit board. I have been reading on the forum of some people that have fixed theirs for about $20. I see nothing visually wrong with the board. Nothing is discolored, popped cap, etc. Is there anybody out there that knows what typically goes on the board? If you have any further information, please post.

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                        • #13
                          Well, tough to repair on your own, I've got ohhh about 10Grand in board testing and repair equipment and thats nothing to others that repair boards full time.

                          Send the board out for repair is your best bet, sure the parts to repair it are cheap, but the know how to trace and repair is a whole other field. Just cause you can't see the damage visually desn't mean its not there. I have to use a microscope generally then trace what caused that problem to occur. That takes around an hour to a couple hours. Then you need the specialized solder and desolding tools.

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                          • #14
                            I realize the difficulties in diagnosing the board and I didn't mean to imply it is an easy thing to fix. I have an EE that works for me and he can deal with the specifics but it would be helpful if he had a direction to look. This seems to be a common problem so I would assume that someone knows where the boards typically fail. What are the common components that fail. For what they charge to diagnose and fix, I can almost buy every component on the board and replace twice over. Any insight would be helpful. Thanks

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                            • #15
                              Kinda have to know exactly what it's doing after you turn the switch to on

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