Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

new to tig welding....help....

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • new to tig welding....help....

    Copy and Pasted from another forum

    Hey how you guys doing i jsut recently bought a miller Diversion 165, came Via Fedex earlier this week and today ive been messing around with it, i had some 1/8 steel and some 1/8 aluminum liying around. so i decided to weld them together.

    i need some advice on what im doing wrong... on the mild steel i welded a nice bead with no filler metal then i used filler and i could not get a bead rolling


    as for the aluminum i was able to get a bead rolling better but it would burn through so i went back on the heat and then i would get like a black burning and it would almost be like it was contaminated, i did clean off the welding area and also the filler metal before hand
    filler i believe its 1/16 4043 i cant rememeber i can confirm later.

    the tungsted that came with the Diversion is 2% ceriated 3/.32 i believe and i have to reg set to 15-20 cfh pure argon..

    the filler i have is 4043(AL), 308LSI(SS), 70S2(MILD STEEL)
    1/16 ROD AND 3/32 ROD but i havent used the 3/32 yet

    thanks John
    Attached Files
    Miller Diversion 165a

    ( )))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

  • #2
    First off if you havent gotten yourself a pedal, then do so. Scratch start is fine when you dont have a pedal, but tig welding is precision welding, and you should have the ability to precisely dial in your heat with the pedal, and to control the puddle from going too wide as you get towards the end of your plate. Also, the black marks looks like someone stepped on your argon line, and you lost shielding gas for a second, or you have your tungsten too far out, and your torch too far from the plate causing your argon to be spread thin. Whats your cup size, tungsten stickout distance? Are all your fittings on your gas line real tight, and not leaking? How are you positioning your torch when you run a steel, stainless steel, and alluminum bead? I need to know this.
    If you want peace, be prepared for war!

    Comment


    • #3
      OK, I do have a pedal i bought the diversion with the foot pedal for that reason . also all my fittings are tight from the cylinder witht the supplied hose and clamps. Not to sure the cup size and my tungsten is sticking out about 1/4 inch. And what do you mean position like angle im holding the torch or like how far away from the material am I.

      umm my torch angle is maybe from 75-60 deg and maybe 1/8 away from the material.


      i did lay down some more beads on steel and i believe it is much much better then before on a butt weld, but i am having a deal of trouble on the corners do i need to stick the tungsten out further for corners or mybe im not getting close enough bc of the cup size.


      thanks for the input
      John
      Miller Diversion 165a

      ( )))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

      Comment


      • #4
        anyone else have any input, i will be posting some more weldsi did today i bit better.

        i seem to have a bit more control and the welds come out nicer with out using any filler metal.. i guess i jsut need more practice adding filler rod. I just have to get more scrapps i ran out hah.

        Tig welding is so much fun lol. How do i keep the tip or the tungsten from forming a ball at the end (steel appl) bc the arc seems to wonder aLot more? im not really toiuching the tip with any filler metal.
        Miller Diversion 165a

        ( )))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

        Comment


        • #5
          Here is some good reading.
          http://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/gtawbook.pdf
          Be safe
          Jeff

          Give more than you get and
          you will get more than ya need.
          This is true for the good and bad
          that life puts out.

          Comment


          • #6
            BigJohn,

            I am learning tig as well. I have gotten a lot of help from the pros here.
            From what I see in the photos, you are possible moving to fast, what I see looks like you haven't gotten the puddle set up (you can start out heavy on the peddle and back off when it get nice an hot (that is when you add filler) I also found that I was trying to dip the filler in at two steep of an angle, easier done if you just move in from the leading edge (always keeping the filler rod under the Argon shield. You will soon find that this whole process becomes an eye/hand/foot coordination lesson (and with practice becomes muscle motion) oh did I tell you you have to get really comfortable at the table (kinda like trying to thread a needle) and breathe!! (of course that has to be timed as well)

            Remember I am a newbie (olé man) and I shake all the time!!!
            PROS: PLEASE correct anything I might have added that would steer BigJohn astray!

            Tim
            sigpicRetired Elevator Consrtructor Local 19 IUEC
            AK bush pilot (no longer in AK) too old and no longer bold)
            Chaplain CMA chapter 26
            Dynasty200dx (new and loving it)
            MM-252 (NEW AND LEARNING IT)
            Hypertherm PM-45
            Miller 140 mig 110v
            Vtwin builder

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by BigJohn View Post
              anyone else have any input, i will be posting some more weldsi did today i bit better.

              i seem to have a bit more control and the welds come out nicer with out using any filler metal.. i guess i jsut need more practice adding filler rod. I just have to get more scrapps i ran out hah.

              Tig welding is so much fun lol. How do i keep the tip or the tungsten from forming a ball at the end (steel appl) bc the arc seems to wonder aLot more? im not really touching the tip with any filler metal.
              for steels you are welding with DCEN, correct? what tunsgten are you using? what gas are you using? what CFH are you using? what cup size?

              if you are on DC the tungsten should not ball up. possibly to much heat/amps for the type/size of tunsgten you are using..... you might even be getting tungsten contamination in the weld pool.

              also, try feeding filler into the puddle at angles very close to parallel to the surface (very shallow angle, etc). this helps avoid the filler melting above the puddle and falling in.

              i'm no expert either, but i have some time behind my esab 161 and these are some things i've learned over the years.
              Last edited by Tig_Kid; 02-15-2009, 05:21 PM.

              Comment


              • #8
                Please resize your pics, many are still on dial up. 800 x 600 is good.
                RETIRED desk jockey.

                Hobby weldor with a little training.

                Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz.

                Miller Syncrowave 250.
                sigpic

                Comment


                • #9
                  Also, please try a bit harder to get the shots in focus. Since you are the one asking for help, don't add to anyone's eyestrain. Most digital cameras have macro setting for close up shots. That makes all the difference with close up focus. Sometimes when your that close the flash will overpower the image. What I do then is hold a piece of tissue paper over the flash to soften it up.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    yeha sorry for the delay i just got home from work i will go downstairs and take some better pictures in a bit... i appoligize those were camera phone pictures
                    Miller Diversion 165a

                    ( )))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Ok here are some newed pictures of welds i did this weekend after those few pictures

                      Tig_Kid
                      for steels you are welding with DCEN, correct? what tunsgten are you using? what gas are you using? what CFH are you using? what cup size?

                      if you are on DC the tungsten should not ball up. possibly to much heat/amps for the type/size of tunsgten you are using..... you might even be getting tungsten contamination in the weld pool.
                      Im using the Miller Diversion 165a so it should be DCEN. the tungsten is 3/32 2% ceriated (orange tip) im using Argon gas at about 15-18 cfh.
                      and i cant recall on the cup size its what ever came with the weldcraft LS17 Torch with the Diversion




                      Last edited by BigJohn; 02-16-2009, 05:17 PM.
                      Miller Diversion 165a

                      ( )))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Miller Diversion 165a

                        ( )))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          BigJohn,

                          Couple of suggestions base on what I see in the photos.

                          1. You're running too cold. Beads are laying on top of the base metal with almost no penetration. Try setting your amps at about 110 for 1/8" steel.

                          2. Looks like you're removing your filler rod from the argon covering gas. When you do that, it get contaminated and when you try to add more filler you're introducing contamination into the weld.

                          3. Looks like you're melting the filler with the heat from the torch rather than dipping filler into the puddle. Try running a bead on the steel without filler. Drop the pedal (all the way down) and create a puddle, once the puddle forms, move forward slightly and repeat the process until you've got the timing down. This is one case where pulse (not on the diversion) would help train you in the timing of puddle, dip filler, move forward. Get your dipping and timing down with steel before you worry about aluminum.

                          4. Remember, the puddle melts the filler, not the heat from the torch.

                          5. When you get to the end of the bead (edge of coupon), you'll want to back off slightly on the amps and rotate the torch to nearly vertical or you'll blow thru the edge of the coupon.

                          Hope this helps. Let us know how you're doing.
                          Syncrowave 250 DX Tigrunner
                          Dynasty 200 DX
                          Miller XMT 304 w/714D Feeder & Optima Control
                          Miller MM 251 w/Q300 & 30A SG
                          Hobart HH187
                          Dialarc 250 AC/DC
                          Hypertherm PM 600 & 1250
                          Wilton 7"x12" bandsaw
                          PC Dry Cut Saw, Dewalt Chop Saw
                          Milwaukee 8" Metal Cut Saw, Milwaukee Portaband.
                          Thermco and Smith (2) Gas Mixers
                          More grinders than hands

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by SundownIII View Post
                            2. Looks like you're removing your filler rod from the argon covering gas. When you do that, it get contaminated and when you try to add more filler you're introducing contamination into the weld.

                            3. Looks like you're melting the filler with the heat from the torch rather than dipping filler into the puddle. Try running a bead on the steel without filler. Drop the pedal (all the way down) and create a puddle, once the puddle forms, move forward slightly and repeat the process until you've got the timing down. This is one case where pulse (not on the diversion) would help train you in the timing of puddle, dip filler, move forward. Get your dipping and timing down with steel before you worry about aluminum.
                            OO?! so when em adding filler rod im not suppost to move it to far away from the puddle so its geting contaminated that way ... Thats what i was doing i was moving it away after i dab into the puddle bc i didnt want it to melt to much from the Tungsten..


                            I did run a bead with out the filler metal.. and I ran a nice bead (i didnt get much penitration) but then i added filler metal and it looked like poop

                            on that first picture i posted on page 1 you can see the bead with no filler metal
                            Miller Diversion 165a

                            ( )))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              BJ

                              Try using 3/32 filler for that practice. Will hold up to the heat a little better than 1/16.

                              Trick is to keep the filler close enough to stay protected by the covering gas, but not so close that it melts before you get it in the puddle.
                              Syncrowave 250 DX Tigrunner
                              Dynasty 200 DX
                              Miller XMT 304 w/714D Feeder & Optima Control
                              Miller MM 251 w/Q300 & 30A SG
                              Hobart HH187
                              Dialarc 250 AC/DC
                              Hypertherm PM 600 & 1250
                              Wilton 7"x12" bandsaw
                              PC Dry Cut Saw, Dewalt Chop Saw
                              Milwaukee 8" Metal Cut Saw, Milwaukee Portaband.
                              Thermco and Smith (2) Gas Mixers
                              More grinders than hands

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X