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  • Who is our local TIG Expert here? I remember a guy...

    Guys,
    I have not been lurking around the Miller forum in quite some time, but I remember there was a guy, who had MAD MAD TIG skills, who I always thought was an "at home" welder, who was always doing all sorts of one-off jobs, and even larger jobs, where many of the same part needed to be TIG'd up.
    He was always posting pics of the MOST BEAUTIFUL TIG WELDS you've ever seen. Very well respected guy on this forum, but for the life of me I cannot remember his name/username????
    Could someone here chime in and help out? I'm sure you regular forum junkies know who I'm talking about???
    I remember one project where I THINK he was welding up some helicopter parts/jigs/pieces for a company, and I also think I remember he posted a bunch of pics of some airline/aircraft SEAT frames that he had welded up.
    I need to get in touch with this guy, if anyone can help???
    Thanks so much guys.

  • #2
    Old Buddy I believe you may be talking about KBFabrication, he is listed as such in the members list.

    Wheelchair (Bill)

    Comment


    • #3
      Paul, I think your either referring to HAWK, ENGLOID or KBFabrication. All three are A1 tig guys. I do not have those guys talent, but I would gladly help if I can.

      [email protected]

      Peace,
      Paul

      Comment


      • #4
        Well,
        I do believe it MIGHT be KBFabrication, but I'll have to do a little searching of the forum to confirm this.
        Anyhow, here is what I need done. Well, first off, let me say that this is not a big project, but it's VERY important that it gets done right, if it's even possible at all.
        It's very simple really, but as I said, I cannot screw this up, so I'm needing someone who knows they can handle the job. I have some welding experience, but I'm not sure if this is doable, so maybe you guys can tell me for sure?
        Here's what I got: I've got a lower handguard that goes on an AK47, a quite rare AK47 I might add.
        The lower handguard is shown in the link below, and if you look at the two pics on the bottom, you will see the black handguard (top pic).
        Disregard the pic of the "Stainless steel heat shield".

        Anyhow, on the LEFT end of the pic, you can see the metal end of the handguard. Now there are three "prongs" of metal that stick out, which are contact points. These three "prongs" or "contact points", are what the handguard CAP clamps down on top of. When the handguard CAP clamps down on top of these three "prongs", tension is created, and the handguard is held tightly in place on the gun.
        Now, the problem with this handguard, is that it's just barely too short for the handguard cap to clamp down tightly. This is creating a LOOSE HANDGUARD, and I cannot have that. LOOSE = BAD!
        SO, bottom line is that I need to know IF someone could TIG (OR MIG?) on the three "prongs", thereby building up the tips longer, so that I can file them down to the proper length, so the handguard will fit TIGHT onto the AK47.
        SO, my careful measurements show that the metal prongs only need to be built up/welded longer by .125" each. This will provide me plenty of material to file down for a proper fit.
        I will say that I have no idea exactly what kind of metal is used on these handguard cap prongs. I would guess it's some kind of sheetmetal/steel stamping type metal? It's either Bulgarian made, or US made. I'm 90% sure it's actually made in Bulgaria, but who knows for sure with these AK parts. Also note that the metal that makes up those three prongs is only about .040" thick, so it's pretty thin. I sure hope this can be done. I would THINK that TIG would be the way to go, but I suppose that depends on the type of steel/metal it's made of??
        Can anyone help me out here? I need this done very carefully, and very cleanly.
        The black polymer handguard itself is made to take some heat, since it surrounds the barrel of an AK47, but I don't know if welding on the metal prongs will possibly create too much heat?
        I would doubt it, but you guys would know more about it than I would.
        I was always totally impressed with KBFabrications welding on this forum, so I was going to humbly ask if he would do this little project for me, but I don't even know if he would be willing to help me? I am willing to pay if the cost is within reach. (I just got back to work after a 6 week layoff), but rest assured I'm not broke as **** or anything. LOL.
        My MAIN thing is to make SURE it gets done right, IF it's even possible at all to build up those three prongs to where they are strong like the original prongs are???
        Thanks so much for any help guys. Of course, I would cover shipping both ways, and the welding fee.
        Either way, thanks for the help guys.
        Last edited by Paul Cataldo; 02-04-2009, 03:01 PM.

        Comment


        • #5
          Did I miss something?
          I couldn't find the pics.
          Should be an easy job though. .040 is not that thin.


          Andy

          Comment


          • #6
            Yup, you did. Might help for me to include the link woudn't it!
            Sorry about that. Ran upstairs for a minute to post and forgot to include the link.
            Here it is. This is the best pic I can find online. This IS the EXACT handguard I have. Out of curiousity. I've always wondered, just HOW do you welding experts determine what metal this is? I'm sure it's nothing too exotic or anything, but how can you determine what type of rod/filler/etc you need to use?
            What do you guys think? Anyone willing to help out a brother?

            http://www.k-var.com/shop/product.ph...cat=296&page=1

            Comment


            • #7
              If these are the welds of which you speak,, these are done by Engloid. I think he has a website that shows some of his work. Absolutely amazing stuff. There are a few on here that do some great work and are great TIG hands. Let me know if the link doesn't work. my computer has been a bit finicky lately and doesn't always show the pics. ;-)

              Comment


              • #8
                I think you should enlist the help of a guy named Zapster. He is a master welding god and I personally don't think anyone, even Engloid, could surpass his talent. I don't know about this guy named Hawk but that guy KB is a total hack at best.

                You can find the Zap at this website. http://microzone.us/weldingforum/ He is the one I would seek out if I were you. I hope you are fortunate enough for him to impart some of his great welding wisdom to you. Peace.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Jeb,

                  That's about the most rediculous post I've seen posted on the Miller boards.

                  KB (Kevin) has forgotten more about tig welding than Zap will ever know. He also has kept up with modern technology (Inverters) whereas Zap is still melting metal with an ancient squarewave machine.

                  If you want someone good at blowing their own horn get Zap. If you want the job done right get KB. Engloid would be my second choice of all the tiggers who post on the Miller boards.
                  Syncrowave 250 DX Tigrunner
                  Dynasty 200 DX
                  Miller XMT 304 w/714D Feeder & Optima Control
                  Miller MM 251 w/Q300 & 30A SG
                  Hobart HH187
                  Dialarc 250 AC/DC
                  Hypertherm PM 600 & 1250
                  Wilton 7"x12" bandsaw
                  PC Dry Cut Saw, Dewalt Chop Saw
                  Milwaukee 8" Metal Cut Saw, Milwaukee Portaband.
                  Thermco and Smith (2) Gas Mixers
                  More grinders than hands

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by SundownIII View Post
                    Jeb,

                    That's about the most rediculous post I've seen posted on the Miller boards.

                    KB (Kevin) has forgotten more about tig welding than Zap will ever know. He also has kept up with modern technology (Inverters) whereas Zap is still melting metal with an ancient squarewave machine.

                    If you want someone good at blowing their own horn get Zap. If you want the job done right get KB. Engloid would be my second choice of all the tiggers who post on the Miller boards.

                    Amen to that!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I know AK's well enough to shoot them and do a basic field strip, but I'm not familiar with how the poly furniture is constructed and I've never pulled the handguards off a Bulgarian variant. Is the carbon steel metal shield removable from the handguard assembly or is the plastic/polymer molded directly over the metal (similar to a Glock frame)? I can't tell from the pic whether the Stainless heat shield is an add-on or a replacement for the steel part. If the metal is removable, that's an easy weld. If the metal itself is non-removable it would require some really creative heat sink work in order to be able to weld right next to the plastic without the possibility of heat damage. I have worked close to heat sensitive parts before, but that's cutting it uncomfortably close.

                      If it's too risky to weld, you can use the handguard as-is by inserting a custom made spacer between the handguard and the retainer and it's not going to rattle. Theres about 1/4" of lip on the retainer and a custom made spacer would not be visible with the handguard installed. Using a spacer would be a non-permanent/reversible modification if you ever get another AK that the hanguards fit better and a spacer involves less risk of possible damage to the part.

                      If you want it welded, or just want someone to take a look at it and see if it's a feasible job, I'm in N.Atlanta and I can TIG it while you wait. Price is whatever you think is reasonable. I don't have the oven to do controlled temp heat treating on critical components (No slides, bolts or receivers), but can I can heat treat and case harden small parts no problem. If it's stainless, it will be left as-welded.

                      I can't match the pics posted by KBF or Engloid, but I'm no slouch either
                      PM me if you want to make arrangements, I'm off exit 7 on GA400. My schedule's open after Monday.

                      -Matt

                      P.S.
                      If you want to ship it up to the northeast and have the 'ol Zapster weld it, I am sure he'd be delighted to help. He gets all the fun jobs! Lmao.
                      2007 Miller Dynasty 200 DX
                      2005 Miller Passport 180

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        HI Matt,
                        Here's the deal, since you do know some about AK's.
                        The link I provided shows the heat shield that sits down in the handguard. It is a seperate piece, and slides out. Mine is Stainless steel.
                        HOWEVER, the heat shield is NOT what I need "built up" or welded on.
                        If you look at the pic, you will notice that the heat shield is a TOTALLY SEPERATE piece than those prongs on the end of the handguard.
                        Those prongs that are on the end of the handguard, are built into the polymer handguard, and they cannot be removed to be welded on.
                        I have never TIG'd before (only MIG'd), and it's been a few years since I even MIG'd, SO therefore I'm not real sure how much heat will actually "bleed off" into the polymer.
                        The one good thing is that this AK handguard IS MADE TAKE HEAT. ****, they can take all the heat that a full auto AK can throw at them, and those AK bbls can get glowing red hot during the daytime. (although that is rare).
                        I have never in my life heard of anyone melting an AK handguard, but then, I know that welding on the handguard will be much more heat than any amount of shooting.
                        SO, I would assume an aluminum heatsink? of some sort MIGHT be needed?

                        I too had previously tried a few different "shim materials", as you suggest, but since I no longer have my vertical bandsaw, mill, lathe, etc (basically had to sell of my entire machine shop), I cannot make a custom "U"-shaped shim.
                        To be honest, I would RATHER have a nice "U" shaped shim made, which WOULD indeed be a simple project.
                        However, I'm not TOO sure of the best way to go about this?
                        As I said, the shim only needs to be about 1/32" or 1/16", and the only reason I had said the prongs needed to be welded 1/8" longer is because I was wanting them to be long, so I could file them down to proper length.


                        I guess I would like to know WHAT is the best way to make a "U-shaped" shim, that is ONLY a mere 1/32" or 1/16" thick?
                        Would I simply use some sheeted shim stock? How would I ACCURATELY, and CLEANLY cut out the "U-shape"???? I guess with a pair of snips? or an X-Acto knife????
                        Do you have a better method??? This may just be the way to go!

                        WHERE can I find some shim stock in various THIN thicknesses, such as 1/32" and 1/16"??? ****, if it winds up being over 1/16" thick, such as a true 1/8" thick, then I'm screwed, as I'd need a vertical bandsaw to do it right.
                        Would prefer something like stainless? or something that WILL NOT RUST.
                        What material is best to use here?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Sundown, What are you talking about Zap is a GOD!!!!! He TIGs everything! No MIG Very little SMAW(Except for high amperage 1/8 7018)

                          Squarewave?
                          I think that old Hobart is sinewave! The guys a machine.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Usually when I'm welding small tabs as your talking about I just build off the base verses welding little tabs of that size.

                            I have to chuccle when some one such as Jeb comes on this site and says such things, If I remember correctly I thought he was banned after trying to cause an up roar about a year or so ago.

                            The first three guys mentioned have posted some pristine work over the last few years.

                            However, Im sure you have some very good local talent in the shops around there.

                            I myself just had to repair some tabs on what the guy told me was a hand gun from the late 1700s

                            It was a small pistol that took a primer just like a muzzle loader does.

                            I do understand you dont want a hack working on it so I would suggest making a few calls to the local gun smiths to find out who they use for welding.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by SundownIII View Post
                              Jeb,

                              That's about the most rediculous post I've seen posted on the Miller boards.

                              KB (Kevin) has forgotten more about tig welding than Zap will ever know. He also has kept up with modern technology (Inverters) whereas Zap is still melting metal with an ancient squarewave machine.

                              If you want someone good at blowing their own horn get Zap. If you want the job done right get KB. Engloid would be my second choice of all the tiggers who post on the Miller boards.
                              The thing about Zap is that he kicks it "old school" and isn't afraid to let you know that. He is masterful with an old "sinewave" machine where these supposed welding guru's you speak of need equipment that costs thousands of dollars to be able to weld. I betcha that zap could out tig anyone in the nation with a rigged up buzz box.

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