What do use to mark on metal???

[awill4x4]

We do a lot of work with CDW and Chrome/Moly tubing which is often oily, rather than removing the oil which takes time and it also contaminates most markers. I use a plain old whiteout marker used for whiting out mistakes on paper. Get one with a ball point nib and a squeeze body and it works a treat. If it gets slightly clogged I wipe it on my overalls and it's ready to use again.
White mark on a black pipe, you can't beat it.
Regards Andrew from Oz.

[CCTEC Student]

Good ol' Soap Stone Works for me, I don't pull out Sharpies unless it is for Stainless Steel

Lipstick??? I have to try that for marking

[MAC702]

Actually, I do have lipstick in the toolbox for marking on metal! I mark deadbolts with it and get the exact contact area to drill in a fabricated steel door frame.

[IRONLORE]

I coulda gone all day without seein' that!

Glenn

[pro70z28]

I put a point on used up tungsten that are too short for welding and keep them close. They make great scribes. If you loose one there's always more.

[davedarragh]

"Stars & Stripes?"

I use Revlon Moon Drops Lilac Champagne or soapstone

Oh my, what do we have here?

Looks like the garb our Sheriff gives the inmates!

I'm locking my doors!

Unlisted, in Phoenix

[hogan]

We use thin soapstone. They are coated with a thin layer of paint. This keeps them from breaking.

[welderman23]

I use Revlon Moon Drops Lilac Champagne or soapstone

hahahahahah

[PUMPKINHEAD]

I use Revlon Moon Drops Lilac Champagne or soapstone

[PTsideshow]

Along with the regular sharpies. The metallic sharpies, (silver) have aluminum powder in them takes longer to burn off. Gold has (brass) but may contaminate the base metal more.
Starting on the left side

1 Aluminum flat replacement for soap stones LWS, Tractor Supply

2 A correction pen can be used as the materials in them make for good silver solder stop flow.

3 Aluminum pencils sold by the LWS as a metal high temp marking pencil. This is an artist metallic coloring pencil, that you can buy at ant art supply a lot cheaper than the LWS. One I have seen 4 times the price.

4 Flat soap stone in holder LWS

5 Round aluminum high temp marking lead in a mechanical pencil. Tractor supply and LWS. Again contains aluminum powder in a binder.

6 Round soap stone/holder LWS

7 & 8 are the spring loaded punches when it absolutely has to remain nothing works like punch marks following a line and filled with chalk. As you work the chalk dust can be reapplied, and the punch mark will last till the metal is raised to a fluid state.

9,10,11 are plain old chalk lighter colors on dark metals darker chalk on light metal. If you want it also works well on the cement floor or welding table top for layout. To make it a little more permanent, you can spray it with cheap hair spray. which is plastic spray just remember it does flare some depending on the brand.

You can also get true carbon or graphite pencils at the art supply they will stop the silver solder and can be used as anti flux. Also they will stay around to a higher temperature. You want a #1 pencil (softest)

Just remember to NEVER use any graphite containing pencil on a stainless part that runs at elevated temperature ( i.e. exhaust systems ), it can lead to cracks.

Most "lead pencil" in the USmade use graphite and a clay binder. what the imports use is anybodies guess

As to problems with sharpies

1 Always store with the tip pointing down pen in the upright position.

2 You can wipe the tip with an alcohol based wipe, used for cleaning the area for injections or sticking something up with a self glue pad.

3 Never use them on oily or greasy material as that will clog up the porous tip and no amount of cleaning will help.

4 the biggest problem with sharpies drying out, is the cap not being snapped back on till it clicks. And drys out (tip).

5 to try to bring back the dried out sharpie clean or even dip the tip in alcohol quickly wipe off and see if it will work.\

[jcirafic]

Soapstone or a scribe. With soapstone its hard to be accurate, the width of the mark itself causes a loss of precision.

[Chuck U&R]

Sharpies - black or silver.
Layout fluid and scribe for precision.

I've tried using those pencil type markers but they break too easy.

[davedarragh]

"Lumber Crayons"

For marking re-bar, lumber crayons (yellow) are great. Keep them in a keel holder.

Dave

[Andy]

For general marking I like the Nissen Metal Marker. Basically looks like a tube of toothpaste with a ball-point cap. For measurements and layout on small parts I use a scribe. On large parts where it's easy to lose a scribe mark, I'll draw an approximate mark with the metal marker then scribe an exact line through it. This will make a high contract mark thats easy to see. Similar to what someone else said about prussian blue and a scribe. I've also used the felt tip paint pens, but these always seem to get clogged up.

[FATFAB]

Krylon I like white