If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
how much would you pay for a used (new in 2005 machine), but in good working condition? Just the bare machine - no running gear or anything, just the power...
This may vary by location but for the most part, there are not very many of these available and they bring good money. Usually when people get them they hang on to them.
The used 300s I see here go anywhere from 3K up to 3500 for just the machine and 4K to 4800 for used tigrunners.
So I picked the machine up, but like I said it doesn't have anything on it - just the bare box. I'm hoping some of you can point me in the right direction.
The guy I bought it from got it at an auction and had no way to test the machine. I need to get it running ASAP so I can make sure it works. Would a Miller service shop be able to test it if I brought it to a shop or is there some reason that isn't a good idea?
Since I just have the bare power supply I need some recommendations on what to get, since I'm pretty much starting from a clean slate.
Torch - is there a decent air cooled torch that I can start with, so I don't have to spend the money up-front for water cooled?
I'm slightly confused at how this machine is supposed to be connected to power. My MM210 had just a plain old power cord. The manual for this machine appears say it needs to be hardwired (pg24)? This doesn't seem right, since it is supposed to be a semi-mobile unit, no?
Any recommendations on where I can get the various peripherals that I need? Work lead, gas connection, remote control, etc...
Thanks for the input and putting up with what I'm sure are very basic questions...
Just bring it over to my shop about 9 AM. After I get the fire built we can wire a plug on real quick and use the stuff off of my 200 to test it. I also have a pretty decent job going that would be a great test. (500 HP transom assembly)
OOPs you didn't say where you was...you may have to start early
www.facebook.com/outbackaluminumwelding
Miller Dynasty 700...OH YEA BABY!!
MM 350P...PULSE SPRAYIN' MONSTER
Miller Dynasty 280 with AC independent expansion card
Miller Dynasty 200 DX "Blue Lightning"
Miller Bobcat 225 NT (what I began my present Biz with!)
Miller 30-A Spoolgun
Miller WC-115-A
Miller Spectrum 300
Miller 225 Thunderbolt (my first machine bought new 1980)
Miller Digital Elite Titanium 9400
First, hit "Resources" at the top of this page and get yourself an owner's manual (pdf file). You might need the serial number off the 300 to get the correct manual. It will give you a wealth of info and is required reading.
The OM will tell you about wiring and what to use. I'm assuming the 300 will do 220v single-phase? (vs. 3-phase). Go to Home DeLowes and get yourself a NEMA 6-50 plug and put it on the end or the cord and it can plug in where the 210 was. Black and white to the spades (line voltage) and green or green/yellow to ground (the "u" terminal). Keep in mind that the 300 will draw a bit more than the 210 and if you crank it up you could trip the breaker or worse yet, overload your wiring and start a fire! 8awg would be the minimum IMO. You could probably get by with a 50amp breaker. Consult an electrician if you're not sure.
Look on places like craigslist.org and ebay.com for the "best" price on the stuff you need. Depends on what you want to do... On craigslist put a "wanted" ad under "tools for sale". Maybe borrow some stick leads from someone to test function before you go crazy buying accessories? Burn a few rods in a row--stress it a little bit.
Used 1/0 workpiece lead 25' w/clamp and connector is about $50. New air-cooled #9 TIG torch about $100. 50' 1/0 leads with stinger and connector about $100. Water-cooled #20 torch and cooler $600. Or less. Look around, there are some good deals out there!
BTW: How many clams did you get the welder for?
TA Arcmaster 185 w/TIG/Stick Kit
MM210 w/3535 Frankengun
MM140 w/o AS w/SM100 & CO2
Hobart (Miller) 625 Plasma
Hobart 250ci Plasma
Victor O/A (always ready, but bored)
Lincoln Patriot Autodark (freebie)
.45ACP Black Talons for those difficult jobs
Just bring it over to my shop about 9 AM. After I get the fire built we can wire a plug on real quick and use the stuff off of my 200 to test it. I also have a pretty decent job going that would be a great test. (500 HP transom assembly)
OOPs you didn't say where you was...you may have to start early
If you were only a tad closer I'd be there in a heartbeat! I'm in southern part of the People's Republic of California.
I downloaded and have read through the manual a couple times. That is what has me a little confused on how it's supposed to be wired up. On page 24 for single phase wiring it looks like it's supposed to be hardwired in to the electrical panel. I pulled the cover off the machine and on the back of the on/off switch there are 3 crimp connectors that no longer have wires in them. I'm assuming that is where the power cord is supposed to be connected?
I have a 60 amp subpanel that I wired into my garage w/8awg 3 wire (which cost a fortune BTW), so I think I'm ok as far as wiring goes. My 220 (single phase) circuit on the subpanel is only on a 40 amp breaker, so it looks like I'm going to have to upgrade that, but that's not a big deal... I don't think a fire or melting wires is a problem. 8awg is rated for up to 73 amps, so there should be no issues running a 60 amp breaker.
The big reason I bought mine was for the aluminum capabilities.
I wouldnt waste my money on an air cooled torch unless you dont plan on welding aluminum.
Aluminum required to much heat so youll need a water cooler and a torch to match.
I run mine off single phase power, I have mine on a plug but I had to use a 3 phase plug to do so.
I bought my plug, Male & Female portion used cost was around $ 250.00 18 years ago for my synchrowave at the time.
The 300 should have "Auto-Link" which allows you to connect to 1 or 3 phase. Inside the welder where you hook up the power cable will be 3 "line" connections (your empty crimp connectors) and one to ground (green). If you want to wire it up single phase just hook up your conductors (black and white) to the first two terminals and leave the last one empty. The factory cable would have had a red wire going to the last terminal. Wiring a single phase plug onto the other end (NEMA 6-50) the instructions tell you to tape the "extra" red wire off to the side of cord, unused.
TA Arcmaster 185 w/TIG/Stick Kit
MM210 w/3535 Frankengun
MM140 w/o AS w/SM100 & CO2
Hobart (Miller) 625 Plasma
Hobart 250ci Plasma
Victor O/A (always ready, but bored)
Lincoln Patriot Autodark (freebie)
.45ACP Black Talons for those difficult jobs
Comment