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  • Foot control function

    I just joined the forum today. I've picked up a ton of info just browsing around, but I still have a few questions unanswered. I just picked up a like new HF251D-1 for our 10 year old Bobcat 250. It came with a flow meter, full "K" bottle of argon (initial hydro date on the bottle is 1942) and a well used torch. Question #1: If I get the foot control that hooks up to the 14 pin amp connector on the HF box, will I have arc amp control, or is that just going to help the arc start? #2: There is a 3 position switch on the box; Start/Off/Continuous. Since I don't have the foot control, will setting the toggle in the Start position eleminate needing to do a scratch start. I'm going to be using this on aluminum plate (5/16") and putting the tungsten on the aluminum seems like I'm asking for problems, but I can't get the arc to make the jump. I think that's enough for now. Any advice is going to help. Thanks in advance.

  • #2
    A foot control will give you amperage adjustments.To weld aluminum you must switch to continous .If you are having problems getting the arc to jump you may need a smaller tungsten.I believe though you need to have the points cleaned and adjusted. What size and amps are you using?
    2- XMT's 350 cc/cv
    1- Blue star 185
    1- BOBCAT 250
    1- TRAILBLAZER 302
    1- MILLER DVI
    2- PASSPORT PLUS
    1- DYNASTY 200 DX
    1- DYNASTY 280 DX
    1- MAXSTAR 150 STL
    1- HF-251 BOX
    1- S-74D
    1- S-75DXA
    2- 12-RC SUITCASES
    1- 8-VS SUITCASE
    2- 30 A SPOOLGUNS

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    • #3
      The remote will only turn the Hf on and off, torch will always be live , and NO amperage control.

      Comment


      • #4
        I don't think the bobcat has a 14 pin plug! So i don't think the remote will work with the bobcat.
        sigpic
        Miller Trailblazer 302
        Miller 12 RC wire feeder
        Miller HF 251D-1
        Miller 175 wire feed

        Comment


        • #5
          I dont have a foot control for mine, i use a hand control and it does adjust the amperage. But this is on my trailblazer so a bobcat im not sure.
          2- XMT's 350 cc/cv
          1- Blue star 185
          1- BOBCAT 250
          1- TRAILBLAZER 302
          1- MILLER DVI
          2- PASSPORT PLUS
          1- DYNASTY 200 DX
          1- DYNASTY 280 DX
          1- MAXSTAR 150 STL
          1- HF-251 BOX
          1- S-74D
          1- S-75DXA
          2- 12-RC SUITCASES
          1- 8-VS SUITCASE
          2- 30 A SPOOLGUNS

          Comment


          • #6
            Bobcat does not have electronic control of the weld output and does not have provisions for remote amperage or contactor control. The Trailblazer series has 2 separate rotor fields mounted on one rotor but controlled separate. One for aux power and one for weld control.
            If you want weld control ( and I would if I were you...) the Trailblazer is the way to go.

            Good luck.
            Andy

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            • #7
              Well, it's really not all that difficult to add a remote amp control to a Bobcat or any machine not having those facilities, never the less, as its a rheostat in the Bobcat, that HF unit won't remote amp with the Bobus anyways.

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks for the help. It turned out my low starting amperage was mainteance issue. In an act of desperation I read the owners manual. There are 2 sets of contacts in the HF251d-1 box I have. They was major oxidation between the contacts. I polished the contact surfaces and set the gape at the recomended .008". I put it all back together and fired it up. I had the setting pretty aggressive from the previous attempts at AC welding. The arc jumped about 3 ". I didn't even have my shade down yet. I felt my way to the box reset things a little more conservatively and after 3 passes I had a pretty good balance of amps/freq. and got a nice pass on my test plate.

                I couldn't see how I could get remote controll when it's a manual rheostat. I just have to take it easy when I get close to the edge without a way cool things down.

                Thanks again.

                Carey
                Last edited by 1olddiver; 01-20-2009, 03:38 AM. Reason: content

                Comment


                • #9
                  Well all you need is a 30 ohm (depending on the serial #) rheostat, a 3 pole double throw/pull switch, a 4 wire receptacle ( or an isolated 3 wire), a plug to fit it and a small amount of wiring know how.

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