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Synchrowave 180 sd issues

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  • #16
    180 sd problem

    Originally posted by pAn3 View Post
    The gap prior to readjustment was .013". Inserted the .012" guage, and adjusted the points to it. The HF is nice, blue strong and consistent, pre and post adjustment. So I tried welding another piece, and I did notice I could hear the HF jumping the gap, and had nothing at the torch, it would not jump a .25" gap to the workpiece(intermittently, a few times I had good HF at the torch)? Which leads me to my next question. Inside the welder, what is between the spark gap and the torch cable connection on the front of the welder? I checked any connections I could see for loosness, and everything was tight. The torch cable tests 0 ohms from the connector to the tip, so the torch cable is OK (I couldnt imagine it going open inside intermittently while welding without melting/gas leaks, etc...?)

    Also, once welding is underway, I still heard HF jumping the gap the entire time I was welding, is this normal? I seem to remember HF continuing for a few seconds, then turning off.

    As far as my heat control issues, is it possible to get a bad bottle of Argon from Airgas?

    Thanks for your help.....
    It is very possible to have a bad bottle of argon from the supplier. I've read alot of the articles posted here and have a 180 sd and also a 200d. Recently tried to do a job on alumimun and neither machine would work right on the alumimun. Have a second bottle of argon on my work truck so figured no problem if it was indeed a bad bottle of argon. Read before, what's the odds of having a bad bottle of gas. Well I had two bad bottles that were marked wrong and sold to me by the same dealer. First I borrowed a friends bottle to make sure that was my problem. Both of my bottles would weld stainless but left black soot in my weld on ac when I did get a decent arc going. Also you might want to check to make sure of gas flow. Have seen a spider web restrict propane on a barbecue grill and lost twp turbo charger on a track loader before finding out that a mud wasp had built a nest in the oil feed line while it was off the machine for rebuild. Hope that you find the problem. Can relate to poor restart problems on the Dynasty 200 also. Still trying to figure that one out.


    • #17
      Well since the HF at the torch works and sometimes doesn't, and the hf isn't jumping to the frame from an output stud I'd suggest my original answer.

      And say you have the conduit pulled out of your torch, probably at the handle.

      Not dificult to get zero ohms if there is only a strand of wire left, and not likely to melt your liner either. It justs gets worn from moving it around, and if it's duty cycle is over ran constantly. Yes the torch has a duty cycle too.
      Last edited by cruizer; 01-15-2009, 07:28 PM.


      • #18
        Just because the torch reads 0 ohms doesn't mean your HF is making it through to the tip. HF is funny for leaking out via every possible path.

        Try installing a new ground lead and a stinger lead and see if you can get HF to jump from a SMAW rod to ground.

        Bad ground lead will cause the EXACT symptoms you are describing.

        It could also be a problem with a component in the HF box.

        80% of failures are from 20% of causes
        Never compromise your principles today in the name of furthering them in the future.
        "All I ever wanted was an honest week's pay for an honest day's work." -Sgt. Bilko
        "We are generally better persuaded by reasons we discover ourselves than by those given to us by others." -Pascal
        "Since we cannot know all that there is to be known about anything, we ought to know a little about everything." -Pascal


        • #19
          Thank you for all of the helpful info. I ran the unit in the dark, and my buddy could not see arc jumping anywhere else in the frame, garage, etc..... While I was running it, I had it at the spark gaps, and had nothing at the torch, all of a sudden, while not moving the pedal at all, i seen the HF "ora" suddenly appear at the tip through my mask, and sure enough there was the hf start....weird.... im going to try the stinger suggestion and see if I have the HF...Ill let you all know what I found.


          • #20
            Tried it with the stick cable and nogo, same business, intermittent HF start. Used another ground, and same result.

            Thanks again, I appreciate your help.


            • #21
              I agree with cruizer, It still sounds to me like a bad tig torch or bad coupling coil or loose connection at the coupling coil.



              • #22
                I eliminated the tig torch using the stick cable, so I dont think that is the issue, however, Im interested in this coupling coil you mentioned, where is this, what does it look like, and how can I test it?


                • #23
                  Doult it as You'd see the arc jumping to the frame inside the machine.


                  • #24
                    So I guess I'm stuck. I have it at the spark gaps constant, nice bright blue and I have it intermittently at the end of the tig torch or the stick stinger. The ground cable is good, as I tried another one with the same result.

                    Anyone have anywhere for me to go from here besides the obvious?


                    • #25
                      Because the HF is obviously working, trace your hard wired connectors from both the neg and pos terminals inside of the machine. Pull up the diagram in the owners manual section and trace from the HF coil forward. The odd thing here is if it had failed inside the machine, that would be permanent and you would never get a spark out the end of your torch. IN DC it's not continous anyways, though in AC it should be. Thats why we suggested the torch being at fault, Trying with another tig torch is your only way of checking if your torch is bad or not, however, you said you tried that??

                      T-shooting online can be never ending. I prefer to inspect the machine in my shop, and can only surmize what is happening to yours.

                      So take it in to a authorized repair facilty


                      • #26
                        Yes, I eliminated the TIG torch by trying the stick lead as mentioned in my last message?

                        Unfortunately, I am still turning away work. It is the peak of snowmobile season, and I cant weld a tunnel. I do think your right, this unit will have to be taken in for service, again, but this time when it comes back, I'm getting rid of it. The unit has been fixed 3 times under warranty for no HF start, and now I have intermittent HF start that I will have to pay to have fixed. Repairing this unit this many times is unacceptable, especially when it has such little use on it.

                        Thank you everyone for all of your help, even though I am disappointed with this unit, I appreciate all of your efforts in trying to help me troubleshoot it.

                        Thank you and have a good day.


                        • #27
                          Here is a last little trick, remove your torch, install say a length of 14 guage automotive cable into the pos terminal, turn the output on the machine to "ZERO". With a welding glove on and the wire close to the work clamp, hit the pedal and see if you get a consistant hf spark, or is it erratic?