Which solvent?

[genet]

Hello everyone,
Which solvent is appropriate for prepping metal before welding? I don't recall what we used when I took a welding class. I'm guessing mineral spirits
is appropriate.
TIA,
Gene

[dabar39]

Mineral spirits is a big NO-NO as it is a petroleum based product and will leave an oily residue. Some will tell you Acetone or Lacquer thinners or other similar products but I'm not too keen on having more flammable liquids in a welding shop than necessary. I use either Simple Green or White lightning, both do a great job of cleaning and de-greasing and both rinse off with water leaving no residue.

[metalmeltr]

i have naver herd of preping metal with solvent prior to welding but I would think that it is to remove oil so in that case acetone mineral spirits lacer thinner or wax and grease remover should work
edit: i started posting this befor dabar39 and he seems much more knowledgable take his advice

[mccutter]

I like denatured alcohol. Like many solvents, it is flammable and not good for you if you breath it, get it in your eyes or absorb it through your skin. But I like to think it is less toxic than other solvents, not very expensive comparatively and doesn't leave any residue.

PS: Last time I bought DNA (last year) it was about $10 for a gallon. Around 20 years ago at a surplus gov't. auction I had to pass on a 55 gallon drum that went for ONLY $5! I didn't have any way to transport it or anywhere to store it. I'd probably still be using today...

[pro70z28]

I use lacquer thinner just because it's a solvent I always have around with my sign business. Also (when welding on my camaro chassis) it takes the primer off in the weld area with little effort. Always keep the can in the next room when welding.

[Vipernut]

If it's new, clean metal, I second the Simple Green. It's cheap, biodegradable and it isn't hazardous

[Badd00SS]

Ive always used denatured alchohol on my stuff...

[Paul Seaman]

This question has many possibilities.

Acetone and alcohol on aluminum are fine,

Acetone on Stainless however is not good it will darken the area when welded and is a bummer to clean up, Alcohol is better.

On steel you can get by with much more, I have heard of brakeclean{non-chlorinated**, acetone, alcohol, even laquer thinner.

The catch is if it flashes off quick it is probably volatile and could create a situation for a fire or explosion.

Caution be your guide,
Paul

[dabar39]

I was just remembering that one of the products that I had mentioned earlier in this thread, White lightning, also goes by the name of Greased lightning depending on which part of the country you come from.

[burninbriar]

White lightning doesn't hurt if its absorbed either, if we talking about the same white lightning.

[IRONLORE]

I have used plain 'ol Stoddard solvent for thirty years to degrease, whether on steel or auto parts. Sparks will light it up so be careful and do the cleaning in a different area than welding or grinding (don't ask me how I know, hehe). Getting expensive compared to soap-based solvents, but still works better IMHO.

Glenn

[bretsk2500]

On steel you can get by with much more, I have heard of brakeclean{non-chlorinated**, acetone, alcohol, even laquer thinner.

The catch is if it flashes off quick it is probably volatile and could create a situation for a fire or explosion.

Caution be your guide,
Paul

I use brake clean all the time on mild steel, works great & never had a problem with it catching on fire. The only degreaser I've ever had fire problem with is the citrus based stuff. I only used that once.

[turbo38t]

I second the non-chlorinated brakeclean. If you use the other stuff (red crc can) you can choke yourself to death. The stuff is BAD NEWS. Dave

This question has many possibilities.

Acetone and alcohol on aluminum are fine,

Acetone on Stainless however is not good it will darken the area when welded and is a bummer to clean up, Alcohol is better.

On steel you can get by with much more, I have heard of brakeclean{non-chlorinated**, acetone, alcohol, even laquer thinner.

The catch is if it flashes off quick it is probably volatile and could create a situation for a fire or explosion.

Caution be your guide,
Paul

[diamondback]

I like IVORY dish soap and a clean water rinse.

I have tried other soaps, Dawn does a good job too.

I would be very cautious when thinking of using solvents. As noted above they are petroleum based like gasoline is. When the fumes get hot you dont know what effect they will have on you. You can read a lot of guys saying they have used this or that for hundreds of years and thats all great but they arent telling you what they dont know and that is the effect it has had or is having on them.

If you read the MSDS's on the stuff they disclaim the heck out of it. Some of it is just covering the backside but most of it is precaution because they dont know it all either.

Be careful.

[pro70z28]

I might be miss guided but I worry more about the stuff in the air emitted from the weld process itself than the small amount of solvent used to clean the weld area. I usually keep a door cracked at least, opened further if wind and temps allow. If I welded more I would probably get an air exchanger but welding isn't a full time job for me.