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  • cruizer
    replied
    There aren't any service memos on the 200DX, therefore no bad run of them as far as the files go other than a better shoulder strap.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bert
    replied
    Originally posted by Big D View Post
    I have been reading this board for several years and the HF problems on the 200DX and been mentioned many times. At one time Miller even admitted there was a run of 200dx's that had defective HF boards. However I wonder if there was more to it than bad boards, maybe more like poor design? What make me think this is the new Blue Lightning HF starting system that Miller just introduced for the Dynasty 200 series machines.

    http://www.millerwelds.com/about/new...ticles248.html

    Like any manufacturer they eventually update their product and call it an improvment while it might really be a correcting a defect. Since I am involved in the maintenance field I have worked with 10 to 20 pieces of identical equipment from the same manufacturer I have some insight. If there is a design flaw it repeats it self over and over. Before long I am repairing the same problems day after day as each piece of equipment fails. The ONE difference here in my experience with manufacturers is that Miller will step up to the plate and take care of their customers when problems occur.
    As far as that run of bad 200dx's??? Is there a list of serial numbers that shows which ones were possibly bad????
    thanks,
    bert

    Leave a comment:


  • Don52
    replied
    Originally posted by FATFAB View Post
    Thanks for the recognition, vary glad to have had a part in helping.

    I went through the same issues. I have used both cerated and lanthanted(sp??) I end up prefering the lanthanated(sp).
    It "feels" like it holds up better.

    any thoughts about this???

    Yes I hijacked this thread lol

    FB
    I found that the arc wandered when I used ceriated tungsten. I checked with Miller's "ask the expert" and they said that this was because ceriated tungsten was prone to axial splitting of the tungsten. They suggested only sharpening the tungsten 50% of the diameter. I didn't like this suggestion because I usually prefer a sharper tungsten with a 1/64 " flat to get good penetration. Since that time I have used the diamond ground tri mix tungsten and have never had the arc wandering problem. I have never used the lanthanated tungsten but many on this web use it and swear by it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Big D
    replied
    I have been reading this board for several years and the HF problems on the 200DX and been mentioned many times. At one time Miller even admitted there was a run of 200dx's that had defective HF boards. However I wonder if there was more to it than bad boards, maybe more like poor design? What make me think this is the new Blue Lightning HF starting system that Miller just introduced for the Dynasty 200 series machines.

    http://www.millerwelds.com/about/new...ticles248.html

    Like any manufacturer they eventually update their product and call it an improvment while it might really be a correcting a defect. Since I am involved in the maintenance field I have worked with 10 to 20 pieces of identical equipment from the same manufacturer I have some insight. If there is a design flaw it repeats it self over and over. Before long I am repairing the same problems day after day as each piece of equipment fails. The ONE difference here in my experience with manufacturers is that Miller will step up to the plate and take care of their customers when problems occur.
    Last edited by Big D; 12-23-2008, 09:17 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bert
    replied
    Originally posted by awill4x4 View Post
    With our 350 Dynasty here with exactly the same problem we still haven't found a solution. We've tried all the different electrode types, had a new HF board fitted and it's still doing it.
    Sometimes when it's doing it, if you touch the filler wire to the work surface and pull it away the arc will light off but it won't do it all the time and you end up with the world's most expensive scratch start Tig machine.
    In the new year we will be insisting on the LWS to supply us with another Dynasty 350 so we can at least compare the 2 and see if it's an inherent problem with the Dynasty 350's.
    Regards Andrew from Oz.
    I"m sure you will let us know as soon as you figure out how to get it fixed!
    Hope it's not something with all of them!!!!!!!!!!!
    thanks,
    bert

    Leave a comment:


  • awill4x4
    replied
    With our 350 Dynasty here with exactly the same problem we still haven't found a solution. We've tried all the different electrode types, had a new HF board fitted and it's still doing it.
    Sometimes when it's doing it, if you touch the filler wire to the work surface and pull it away the arc will light off but it won't do it all the time and you end up with the world's most expensive scratch start Tig machine.
    In the new year we will be insisting on the LWS to supply us with another Dynasty 350 so we can at least compare the 2 and see if it's an inherent problem with the Dynasty 350's.
    Regards Andrew from Oz.

    Leave a comment:


  • FATFAB
    replied
    Originally posted by tsutt View Post
    KB&FATFAB, Tungsten IS the ticket. Worked like a champ, flawless.

    Thanks
    Todd
    Thanks for the recognition, vary glad to have had a part in helping.

    I went through the same issues. I have used both cerated and lanthanted(sp??) I end up prefering the lanthanated(sp).
    It "feels" like it holds up better.

    any thoughts about this???


    Yes I hijacked this thread lol

    FB

    Leave a comment:


  • Bert
    replied
    Originally posted by tsutt View Post
    KB&FATFAB, Tungsten IS the ticket. Worked like a champ, flawless.

    Thanks
    Todd
    Todd,
    CONGRATS!!!!!!!!!! and a BIG thank you for trying it out and letting us know!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (Inquiring minds want to know!!!)
    that's why I love this forum

    Leave a comment:


  • KB Fabrications
    replied
    Originally posted by tsutt View Post
    KB&FATFAB, Tungsten IS the ticket. Worked like a champ, flawless.

    Thanks
    Todd

    Leave a comment:


  • tsutt
    replied
    KB&FATFAB, Tungsten IS the ticket. Worked like a champ, flawless.

    Thanks
    Todd

    Leave a comment:


  • tsutt
    replied
    I haven't had a chance to get back on and try a different tung. I'll try it tonight.

    Todd

    Leave a comment:


  • Bert
    replied
    Originally posted by tsutt View Post
    I am having hi freq starting problems. I'm trying to tack weld an alum gas tank together and i can get 6-8 tacks before it stops working. I have one of the earlier models, however the board has been replaced. Has anyone actually solved this problem? I'm getting really tired of this. The machine works great otherwise. is this a problem with the 300's also or are they not affected? if not what's the difference?

    Todd
    you figure out the problem? was it the tungsten?
    bert

    Leave a comment:


  • FusionKing
    replied
    Very little differences

    The manuals are pretty much the same except for an almost obscure section on the new features...I was worried about mixing them up before I got my first machine sold.

    KB...oh boy a review...I'll be watching for it.

    Leave a comment:


  • KB Fabrications
    replied
    Originally posted by LA Weld View Post
    Kevin, you got that one 100%, to add I believe the zirk is frosting and creating enough resistance.

    The older owners manual was less than clear on what tungsten to use. Been a lotta talk over the years on this.
    KB, you got newer machine, did the manuel get any better?
    Laurence, I must confess, I haven't looked at the manual except to find out how to change the settings on the new features, tungsten size and wave shapes. I will say this, the new arc start board with the pre-set tunsten parameters works flawlessly. I will have a little review with a job I am doing worked up for sometime next week.

    Leave a comment:


  • LA Weld
    replied
    Originally posted by KB Fabrications View Post
    The zirc tungsten could very well be your problem. That tungsten is meant for transformer style machines and tends to ball up rather quickly. That's not a good thing with an inverter like the 200DX. It is most likely causing your start-up issues. You need to use either lanthanated or ceriated and see if you don't have different results.
    Kevin, you got that one 100%, to add I believe the zirk is frosting and creating enough resistance.

    The older owners manual was less than clear on what tungsten to use. Been a lotta talk over the years on this.
    KB, you got newer machine, did the manuel get any better?

    Leave a comment:

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