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  • bent skeg

    hi to all .
    has anyone had any experience on straightening a bent skeg. [the lowest section at bottom of g/box] on an outboard motor.or any other ideas on repairing the same.
    toby.

  • #2
    toby,
    the guy I work with repairs boat props. Just the other day we saw a police HIB with twin 200's on the back and told me how he used to fix them...call your engine maker and order a skeg from them. May have to get part of it, cut a bit of the old one and weld it/tig it back together...if not real big, cut it out and build it back with tig.that's how he did it....
    good luck
    what engine do you have? show us a pic, I can print it out and show him for more tips....
    Last edited by Bert; 12-14-2008, 02:19 AM.
    I'm not late...
    I'm just on Hawaiian Time

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    • #3
      Hey there Ive welded new skegs on legs which the skegs have been broken off using the tig process and 5356 filler rod. I just cut a piece of marine grade aluminum plate similar to the thickness and shape of the old skeg welded it on and grinded it to match the lines of the leg. It wasnt very hard except that the leg is usally cast aluminum at least on the honda I did and it tends to melt quickly then all of a sudden its on your foot. If you go slow you should be able to figure it out. Oh yeah disassemble the lower unit completely or you will melt the shaft seals and catch the leg oil on fire. as far as repairing a bent skeg you will probably break the old one off if you try to bend it back. Aluminum is very stiff and it doesnt like to bend twice. I hope this helps Aloha!
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      • #4
        I built up a side fin for a Merc IO 454 Chevy where the guy lost the fin in the Ohio River. I just clamped a polished 1/2" steel plate to the little part that was left and built it up with 4043 and my spoolgun. The steel plate came off and the new fin was left. He shaped it with a grinder and it was a perfect match to the other side.
        The same day i did his another guy brought in an exact looking boat with the same fin broke off but he had the piece so i welded it back on. He was just driving by and saw me welding the first boat...Bob
        Bob Wright

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        • #5
          Originally posted by [email protected] View Post
          hi to all .
          has anyone had any experience on straightening a bent skeg. [the lowest section at bottom of g/box] on an outboard motor.or any other ideas on repairing the same.
          toby.

          Just heat and beat it...I bet I did at least 20 this year. Using the original is better than welding if it will straighten. leave the oil in it and it won't get hot enuff to warp.
          Leave the case empty and you can warp it beyond repair!!

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          • #6
            Try this:

            http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/shows_..._25814,00.html

            it is from ShipShape Boating television show and tells about tig welding a new skeg on.

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            • #7
              THAT WAS SOOOO COOOOLLLLLLL!!!!! I like the part where it shows you to
              cut it in a zigzag pattern...then hire a weldor to weld it for you.....
              SHOULD COST AROUND $25
              NOT IN HAWAII BABY!!!
              I'm not late...
              I'm just on Hawaiian Time

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              • #8
                If ya break it and have to weld it , don't disasemble the whole thing. Put the motor on tilt up, Remove the prop, fill the hub with water, Remove the oil fill screw and weld away. It won't get hotter than 212 degrees till the water is gone. If the water starts to boil, take a smoke/beer break.
                Done a few of these, some with just the hub left. Never took any of them apart. No reason to.

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                • #9
                  bent skeg

                  hi to all
                  thanks to all for the great suggestions . i will try heating it with o/a and then attempt to straighten it . if that fails and it breaks off . i will make a new one and weld it on . especially like the empty oil ,and fill with water idea.
                  thanks mates.

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                  • #10
                    Do not misunderstand. Do not drain the oil. Just open the fill screw so pressure does not build up. The fill with water is the hub behind the prop. Don't drain the oil and fill that cavity with water.

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                    • #11
                      bent skeg

                      thanks for the interpretation of your meaning steve, i can follow that ok the water in the hub protects the mainshaft seal.heres shot of the skeg.
                      Attached Files

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by [email protected] View Post
                        thanks for the interpretation of your meaning steve, i can follow that ok the water in the hub protects the mainshaft seal.heres shot of the skeg.

                        Sorry but that pick is just about impossible to get anything from

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                        Miller Dynasty 700...OH YEA BABY!!
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                        Miller Dynasty 200 DX "Blue Lightning"

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                        Miller 30-A Spoolgun
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                        • #13
                          Not bent to bad. Folded on the leading edge a tish? And sashayed to the left? It might straighten if ya back one side with with something heavy. Its all cast AL anyway. AL gets plastic at around 750 degrees so if ya heat it, I wouldn't personally. By the time ya got enough heat to make a difference the whole lower unit would be hot. Thats why cook ware is made of AL. Transfers heat real good. McDurmon? I believe sells replacement skegs. Least they did back in 95. Tricky part is getting it to look like it came from the factory with no bondo, just your steady hand and metal if ya hafta put on a new one. Its a 150 dollar repair when I was doing those. Have replaced whole skegs up to the hub but thats more money. Just keep it straight up with the vertical of the motor and straight with the motor front to back. Thanks for the pic.
                          Last edited by Steve; 12-18-2008, 06:19 PM.

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